Outcast Another Slipper clutch question...

[ArrmAh]

I know this topic has been talked about a lot but here goes...I'm noticing my slipper clutch needs to be tightened after every run, sometimes mid pack, even with light street bashing. I've tried the loctite method (blue loctite) a few times with no success. I rarely attempt wheelies, maybe 3-4 times in my last session, so i don't really go full throttle. Only time i go full throttle is when i'm already rolling. So here's my current setup.
1) running 3s
2) punch levels stock
3) changed to 15T pinion
4) stock motor mount
4) 3.8 Proline Trenchers
5) Mainly running on grass and pavement

If my current rig/setup isn't the cause of my slipper clutch issues, would you guys recommend using a stronger loctite?

Thanks in advance

 

[Arrmature]

How long do you wait after applying Loctite until you drive? It takes a while to cure.

 

[ArrmAh]

How long do you wait after applying Loctite until you drive? It takes a while to cure.

my latest run i waited around 20-24 hours.

 

[GRC]

You may want to check and make sure your slipper assembly spring is clean. If you've re-applied loc-tite often, the spring may be stuck inside caked with loc-tite.

*EDITED - Remove the slipper from the chassis. Put all the washers and a clean spring on the slipper screw and apply loc-tite to the end of the slipper screw. Insert the screw while keeping the spring clean (avoid getting loc-tite on it). Screw it in to fully tight (don't overtighten). Put a drop of loc-tite on the screw where it comes out of the back of the slipper. Then unscrew back off from full tight. The more you back off from full tight, the less stress to the slipper screw and loc-tite. One and a half turns is recommended by Arrma. I use 1.25 turns. Anything less than 1 full turn would break the loc-tite for me. Let the loc-tite cure for 24 hours.

My loc-tite always broke loose before I used loc-tite on the screw where it comes out the back. It has not come loose since.

 

[ArrmAh]

You may want to check and make sure your slipper assembly spring is clean. If you've re-applied loc-tite often, the spring may be stuck inside caked with loc-tite.

Put all the washers and a clean spring on the slipper screw and apply loc-tite to the end of the slipper screw. Keep the spring clean while you screw it in. Once the screw is in fully tight, back off from full tight. The more you back off from full tight, the less stress to the slipper screw and loc-tite. Anything less than a full turn from full tight would break the loc-tite for me. Once the screw is at your desired tightness, put a drop of loc-tite on the screw where it comes out the back of the slipper. You will have to remove the slipper assembly to do this. All of this is easier if you remove the slipper assembly from the start.

My loc-tite always broke loose before I backed off 1.25 turns AND applied loc-tite to the back. Has not broken loose since.

Thanks! i'll give that a try. i noticed that when i took apart the slipper assembly to change the bearing the spring did not slide out and was stuck. This was when the truck was new and before i even tried the loctite method. I'm wondering if the spring is the issue.

 

[GRC]

Thanks! i'll give that a try. i noticed that when i took apart the slipper assembly to change the bearing the spring did not slide out and was stuck. This was when the truck was new and before i even tried the loctite method. I'm wondering if the spring is the issue.

The spring tends to get stuck inside, even if it's clean. I thought I had lost mine at first. Just have to dig it out a bit.

 

[jondilly1974]

Get a slipper maintenance kit.

 

[ArrmAh]

Get a slipper maintenance kit.

is the difference between the slipper assembly that comes with truck and the kit, the cap head screw?

 

[jondilly1974]

is the difference between the slipper assembly that comes with truck and the kit, the cap head screw?

The maintenance kit isn’t the entire slipper. It’s just a clean screw, washers, and spring. You will reuse the hubs, pads, bearings, and spur.

 

[Harriot10]

is the difference between the slipper assembly that comes with truck and the kit, the cap head screw?

I've been down this road before! Make sure you clean the slipper screw and threads thoroughly and give the loctite enough cure time! Slippers get hot and if the loctite hasn't cured its worthless.

 

[ArrmAh]

The maintenance kit isn’t the entire slipper. It’s just a clean screw, washers, and spring. You will reuse the hubs, pads, bearings, and spur.

Thanks! i'll probably order one if this method of taking it apart and cleaning it doesn't work.

 

[JAM]

If your spring was stuck it’s because the loctite was coating it from when you reinstalled. Try this method. I always crank it all the way down tight then apply so when I back it off it pulls some into the threads as well. Also I just had a. Issue where 24hrs wasn’t a long enough cure time. I brought my motor assembly inside after reapplying again. Issue I believe was high heat and humidity which left it tacky. Florida summer made it harder to set.

 

[GRC]

is the difference between the slipper assembly that comes with truck and the kit, the cap head screw?

I don't think there's anyl difference. No reason to buy a replacement kit if nothing needs replacing, try cleaning first.
P.S. If you do end up get a replacement kit, the slipper end cap is not used on BLX models.

 

[Harriot10]

If your spring was stuck it’s because the loctite was coating it from when you reinstalled. Try this method. I always crank it all the way down tight then apply so when I back it off it pulls some into the threads as well. Also I just had a. Issue where 24hrs wasn’t a long enough cure time. I brought my motor assembly inside after reapplying again. Issue I believe was high heat and humidity which left it tacky. Florida summer made it harder to set.

Don’t crank too much, you’ll stretch the metal on the hub assembly! I did that once?

 

[JAM]

I usually go until the driver snaps. It’s the only way to keep it from slipping again. ?

 

[Harriot10]

I usually go until the driver snaps. It’s the only way to keep it from slipping again. ?

Just trying to help, I learned the hard way. I never would of thought the hub set could stretch.

 

[JAM]

@Harriot10 all good man. We both can agree these slippers need work from factory. Once we get them rebuilt they are usually good and with 3 different trucks I’m getting pretty good at it ha.

 

[Surchaufeur]

my latest run i waited around 20-24 hours.

Use red threadlock problem solved blue isnt worth crap imo now allows you to tune the slipper on the field without starting coming apart but removing the screw needs work a lot of back and foward and a good 2mm driver

 

[Harriot10]

@Harriot10 all good man. We both can agree these slippers need work from factory. Once we get them rebuilt they are usually good and with 3 different trucks I’m getting pretty good at it ha.

Mine have been fine since I destroyed them both and rebuilt them. I’m running steel spurs on 4s in the Granite and BR!