Any advice on how to solder this motor?

[Boggs3010]

I have tried each time I think I have a wire soldered with little effort it comes off. Much more difficult then any I have done before. Has to be clean so they solder in-between doesn't touch. Thanks in advance. Esc and bullet connectors were a breeze btw.

 

[Diem Turner]

Just a shot in the dark here. Have you tried filing the contacts a little to see if there's oxide, manufacturing oils, or any other something that might need to be removed that is preventing the solder from bonding with the connector? Maybe give them a good rub down with acetone? Hope this helps. If not, I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[Tex Koder]

If you're worried about accidentally dripping solder to the post next to one another, all you have to do is slide a piece of aluminum foil in between them while you are soldering.
Then just remove (All) the aluminum piece(s) after you are done.

 

[Diem Turner]

If you're worried about accidentally dripping solder to the post next to one another, all you have to do is slide a piece of aluminum foil in between them while you are soldering.

I've accidentally killed a CC 1520 by applying my solder a bit too liberally when upgrading the 10AWG with 8AWG wires. A tiny droplet went down the post and into the back of the motor landing somewhere that caused it to overheat in glorious fashion. It got hot enough to vaporize the solder and condense in fractal spheroid fashion. For scale, the larger of the drops with the little piggy back droplets is 0.3mm.

 

[Acidsnow]

Make sure ye tin the terminals and the wires before ye start.
Might be teaching yer granny to suck eggs here but just in case!

 

[AIan]

Tin your wires really well, if you have separate flux be sure to brush some on the terminal, then tin your soldiering irons tip and heat and tin the terminal, then put tinned wire on the terminal and apply soldiering iron , add solder as necessary.

 

[Acidsnow]

I've accidentally killed a CC 1520 by applying my solder a bit too liberally when upgrading the 10AWG with 8AWG wires. A tiny droplet went down the post and into the back of the motor landing somewhere that caused it to overheat in glorious fashion. It got hot enough to vaporize the solder and condense in fractal spheroid fashion. For scale, the larger of the drops with the little piggy back droplets is 0.3mm.
View attachment 222343

Sure we've aw done that at one time or another @Diem Turner , only the once wearing shorts mind!

 

[Boggs3010]

Thanks for the replies will clean and lightly sand the terminals. And tin the ends a bit more.

 

[AIan]

Just take your time it’s not the easiest Solder task to do

 

[erikinsac]

use isopropyl alcohol to clean the motor terminals. Use a good iron, i like to set mine to about 80W or so and a 3mm or 5mm wedge tip.
apply rosin core solder and the tip to one terminal to tin it in the cradle where the wire will sit. Do that to all 3 terminals. Next, calculate your wire length and strip 4mm (3/16") or so on the wire ends. Use the iron to apply heat at the same time feeding solder into where the tip is touching. This will help heat transfer quicker as well as cause the solder ti wick into the wire. When solder has covered all sides of the tip, you are now tinned. you might need gloves if you have short wires or the helper hand holders. Soldering the wire to the motor terminals is easy, just lay the tinned wire end into that terminal cradle, apply heat with the tip to the wire. You will see the solder re-melt and then transfer heat to the terminals and melt together. Soon as you see that, remove heat and blow directly on it for 5 seconds. You should have a nice joint that isnt "cold" and also didnt transfer excessive heat into the motor windings. Remember, a really hot iron is better than a colder one that takes longer to transfer heat and melt solder. Also use rosin core electronics solder, you don't need silver solder.

Hope that helps.

 

[Diem Turner]

Sure we've aw done that at one time or another @Diem Turner , only the once wearing shorts mind!

Check out the temperature the motor hit according to logs:

For those not firm in Celsius, that's 569°F.

 

[erikinsac]

oh, you don't need to overuse solder, a good joint will have just a small "fillet" of solder where it connects parts ;-)

 

[SrC]

I would use some Flux paste sparingly at the motor terminal posts. If you haven't already. Need a hot iron/larger blunt tip, because the motor posts act like a large heat Sink and your Tip temp recovery times are probably Piss Poor. A combination of bad variables here.
You are good with connectors. So you pretty much know the rest.
When in doubt there is always this below.. Sometimes we all need a refresher course.

 

[Boggs3010]

WPI didn't even help.(video...Thanks) I think this job requires two good hands. I am partially disabled in my right. I will go to my local shop and ask them. First time needing a shop to do work for me. Hat in hand.....

 

[SrC]

I feel the same way at times.
Mind still works, just that the body can't keep up.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I don't see any Flux residue, so that is part of the issue - use flux paste. Tin the terminals before you try to make the wires stick. Once the posts are tinned, and the wires are tinned, you won't need to add much, and any more solder for the final connection.

 

[SrC]

^^^+1.
Soldering is 90% preparation and then soldering fast for the proper end result.
Working fast with 2 hands might be a problem for some. IDK.
Soldering sometimes requires 3 hands for me.
And it can be awkward soldering a motor while mounted on the chassis in some cases.

 

[donnie533]

agree with the above comments....
Trick to good solder joints is preparation.
Clean and tin both surfaces before joining.
For large wires I use a 260 watt solder gun - it is best to have high heat for a brief period.
If the soldering iron is too small, the wire / terminal will draw out the heat quickly.

Also, in the first few seconds after soldering the joint, it is critical that the wire does not move - this will result in a very weak joint.
I will use clamps, zip-ties - whatever is needed to secure the parts together before soldering.
Get the parts in a good position so it is easy to see and reach the joint.

 

[Diem Turner]

Soldering sometimes requires 3 hands for me.

I have three hands. I have....a premium member.

Also, in the first few seconds after soldering the joint, it is critical that the wire does not move - this will result in a very weak joint.

While I'm not disagreeing with the general sentiment expressed here, this can be mitigated to an extent by the use of 63/37 solder.

"63/37 solder is made of 63% tin and 37% lead. It has a melting point of 183°C, slightly lower than the more common 60/40 blend. The primary advantage of this solder is not the lower melting point, but its eutectic property. Non-eutectic solders, like the 60/40 solder, have a semi-solid state between solid and liquid. If a joint is moved during this stage, it can result in what is called a cold solder joint. Eutectic solders, like the 63/37, do not have this semi-solid state and are thus considered easier to work with as it produces fewer bad joints. However, these solders typically cost more than their non-eutectic counterparts."

Personally I much prefer solders containing lead as I find it much easier to work with (I highly recommend not skimping on solder and getting quality product by a reputable manufacturer like Kester). Perhaps if I spent 8-12 hours a day soldering for a living I might take a different position here. But as it is a momentary occupation only when the need arises to solder a connector or six, I'm not too paranoid about it containing lead (insert obligatory disclaimer to use proper safety procedures and equipment when working with lead...don't chew on the solder, etc.).