Granite Any tips to stop this happening

Armarookie43

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The driveshaft arms keep popping out front and rear, is there a hack to get them to stay in or do I need new ones, cheers
I never had that problem with my granite blx when I had it for a few months. I've heard that if the slipper is adjusted too tight, it can break driveshafts. Have you tried adjusting your slipper clutch? Maybe it's too tight.
 

Cliffehanger57

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I never had that problem with my granite blx when I had it for a few months. I've heard that if the slipper is adjusted too tight, it can break driveshafts. Have you tried adjusting your slipper clutch? Maybe it's too tight.
How would I go about adjusting that ? Thank you
 
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you need a 2mm driver or allen key you need to remove the center driveshaft and slide your driver trought the red alluminum piece and you will feel the allen key snap into place in the 2mm hex screw head. To loosen it up you need to roll the car backwards i recommand you to remove the plastic protector on the slipper hub and the alluminum slipper has 2 holes and 2 other marks that you can use as indicators for your clutch setting 1/4 turn 2/4 turn 3/4 turn and a full turn loose the slipper 0.25 turn at the time. The only way for you to pop driveshafts out it to have a too tight slipper or a really bad landing. When they pop out its ussualy game over and will need remplacing because the plastic has weaken
Im not the best at explaining sorry for the messy mess
The driveshaft arms keep popping out front and rear, is there a hack to get them to stay in or do I need new ones, cheers
 

Cliffehanger57

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you need a 2mm driver or allen key you need to remove the center driveshaft and slide your driver trought the red alluminum piece and you will feel the allen key snap into place in the 2mm hex screw head. To loosen it up you need to roll the car backwards i recommand you to remove the plastic protector on the slipper hub and the alluminum slipper has 2 holes and 2 other marks that you can use as indicators for your clutch setting 1/4 turn 2/4 turn 3/4 turn and a full turn loose the slipper 0.25 turn at the time. The only way for you to pop driveshafts out it to have a too tight slipper or a really bad landing. When they pop out its ussualy game over and will need remplacing because the plastic has weaken
Im not the best at explaining sorry for the messy mess
This would make sense as I had to replace the slipper hub and it was fine before then
 

slick2500

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But then they introduce other issues, more expensive axles, lost pins requiring a CVD pin set, then a snapped driveshaft since the metal part doesn't flex and it cracked the plastic. Went back to stock.
Your slipper is set too tight.
 

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Your slipper is set too tight.
How is it the slipper? The bent and snapped axles are from jump landings. The stock ones also bend and snap, but they're much cheaper to replace. The lost CVD pins are because my Hot Racing hex extenders did not hold, wheels came off and CVD pins flew out. The stock driveshafts don't have these pins. The CVD driveshaft snapped from a hard landing. The metal part of the the slider creates a leverage point which snapped the plastic part of the slider. It's not the slipper.
 
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GRC

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I've seen a few people having issues with stock 3s driveshafts popping. Fortunately mine have not. I keep my slipper backed off 1.25 turns and haven't had a problem. But buying entirely new stock driveshafts is still cheaper than just the CVD axles. If you're running 4S, I've heard CVD driveshafts may be necessary. But on 3s, in my experience, the CVD driveshafts are nothing but more money, more problems. And they're kindof noisy.
 
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Jerry-rigged

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Yeah, I normally fall on the side of the argument that is "Tune it right" rather than buy $80 parts, but the last u-joint that failed happened when the u-joints were hard to find (pre-covid) so I grabbed the CVDs.

the only issue I have had with them - they are held onto the diff output with a grub screw. The grub screw is threaded thru a ring, made of plastic. This is not even a thick ring, it is maybe 2mm think? I stripped the set screw, because set screws are supposed to be tight, right? Luck, Arrma apparently knew I would do this, as there is a second hole 180deg around the ring. I was careful the second time, and so far it has been OK. But, still a low run count on those axles.
 
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The clutch is what prevents your drivetrain to explode its role its to slip and prevent diff failure and driveshaft failure all of the people who had their driveshafts poping out most likely had the slipper way too tight or bad driving treat the rc like if it was your real car would you go from 0 to 100 throttle in one second that stresses everything on the car if the clutch is not working proprely thats why i don't like clutches because they are not beginner friendly. My clutch was set too tight for too long the shafts never poped out but i ended up with driveshafts looking like this CAC2AD1C-296A-4E7F-919D-678E68CF2E9F.jpeg
If you refuse to belive its the clutch your main issue then well buy the cvds for the rear only but if you end up with a stripped rear diff don't come and ask why it happened the 3s are not know to have diff failures only the 4s models because of the extra torque so clutch tuning is more important on these vehicules and might need metal diff yokes.
Yeah, I normally fall on the side of the argument that is "Tune it right" rather than buy $80 parts, but the last u-joint that failed happened when the u-joints were hard to find (pre-covid) so I grabbed the CVDs.

the only issue I have had with them - they are held onto the diff output with a grub screw. The grub screw is threaded thru a ring, made of plastic. This is not even a thick ring, it is maybe 2mm think? I stripped the set screw, because set screws are supposed to be tight, right? Luck, Arrma apparently knew I would do this, as there is a second hole 180deg around the ring. I was careful the second time, and so far it has been OK. But, still a low run count on those axles.
Arrma genius enginers XD
 

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The clutch is what prevents your drivetrain to explode its role its to slip and prevent diff failure and driveshaft failure all of the people who had their driveshafts poping out most likely had the slipper way too tight or bad driving treat the rc like if it was your real car would you go from 0 to 100 throttle in one second that stresses everything on the car if the clutch is not working proprely thats why i don't like clutches because they are not beginner friendly. My clutch was set too tight for too long the shafts never poped out but i ended up with driveshafts looking like this View attachment 87644
If you refuse to belive its the clutch your main issue then well buy the cvds for the rear only but if you end up with a stripped rear diff don't come and ask why it happened the 3s are not know to have diff failures only the 4s models because of the extra torque so clutch tuning is more important on these vehicules and might need metal diff yokes.

Arrma genius enginers XD
When I swapped in my CVD's, all the u-joints looked like that. +2 years old Mega driveshafts. I have not touched my slipper in years, (Early production BLX slipper) it probably just seized, and I broke 3 driveshafts in 2 runs.

I probably need to tear it down, as the second run with the CVD's, I blew the rear diff. :eek:
 

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