Typhon Any way to decrease the turn radius on a Typhon 3s?

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RussR

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
local dirt track S turns are hard to make, looking at the local racers with Techno buggys the Typhon has much less movement.
can any parts be changed out to decrease the turn radius? hubs?

i replaced the servo, and tested without the servo in to make sure its reaching its max.

if not, and ideas to help with the front getting pushed in a turn? i've already adjusted camber and toe, and that helped some.
 
local dirt track S turns are hard to make, looking at the local racers with Techno buggys the Typhon has much less movement.
can any parts be changed out to decrease the turn radius? hubs?

i replaced the servo, and tested without the servo in to make sure its reaching its max.

if not, and ideas to help with the front getting pushed in a turn? i've already adjusted camber and toe, and that helped some.
You could try a stronger servo saver. I think @razorrc had some ideas as to which one(s) might work better.
 
Decrease? Or increase? I'm confused...
When talking about radius (taking you way back to geometry math class)
Decrease actually means it would turn tighter or in a smaller circle

radius.JPG


I suspect if the servo saver is not causing issues and the servo itself is throwing as far as mechanically possible you are going to be stuck with what you have.

As an alternative you could look into setting up the toe angle and Ackerman rates to help.
Also Team Durango parts for the rear can adjust rear toe angles to help the buggy rotate differently. I don't have much experience in this sort of racing. @razorrc is the guy I know who would.
 
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Lower the front and raise the rear using shock preload.
Thinner oil in the Center diff.
 
Ha ha, read right over the "radius" part... and only took in the "decrease turn" part...

Well now it makes sense.. lol

I feel your barking up the wrong tree with steering angle and need to focus on tuning your diffs for the track you run... if its pushing around the corner try lighter front diff fluid... if both tires are throttling around the corner it's going to push...
Lower the front and raise the rear using shock preload.
Thinner oil in the Center diff.
Unfortunately no center diff on the 3s line
 
Try some 5000 or 7000 cst in the diffs, give it a little toe out, and a little camber adjustment, tops inward.
 
local dirt track S turns are hard to make, looking at the local racers with Techno buggys the Typhon has much less movement.
can any parts be changed out to decrease the turn radius? hubs?

i replaced the servo, and tested without the servo in to make sure its reaching its max.

if not, and ideas to help with the front getting pushed in a turn? i've already adjusted camber and toe, and that helped some.

Corner entry or corner exit? There are almost no adjustments on the Typhon, first thing I would do is make sure you are using the best tires for your track, that will make the biggest difference.
 
Corner entry or corner exit? There are almost no adjustments on the Typhon, first thing I would do is make sure you are using the best tires for your track, that will make the biggest difference.
Do you have a recommendation for dusty dry tracks? My local track is hard packed sandy soil with a light loose top layer. Very fine and hard to get any traction.
 
....As an alternative you could look into setting up the toe angle and Ackerman rates to help.
Also Team Durango parts for the rear can adjust rear toe angles to help the buggy rotate differently. I don't have much experience in this sort of racing. @razorrc is the guy I know who would.
Maybe on the Typhon 6S. The 3S is a different animal. Yes?
 
Corner entry or corner exit? There are almost no adjustments on the Typhon, first thing I would do is make sure you are using the best tires for your track, that will make the biggest difference.
☝ That's what I was thinking when I finally understood the question.
 
Do you have a recommendation for dusty dry tracks? My local track is hard packed sandy soil with a light loose top layer. Very fine and hard to get any traction.

Find the fastest person there and ask them. If anyone is GIVING advice, don't take it. Find the guy who is just confidently and quietly going about his business and ask them and get their answer.

Tires are super particular to the exact conditions, including temperature, how recently the track was redone, moisture, etc.
 
Find the fastest person there and ask them. If anyone is GIVING advice, don't take it. Find the guy who is just confidently and quietly going about his business and ask them and get their answer.

Tires are super particular to the exact conditions, including temperature, how recently the track was redone, moisture, etc.
It is similar to the track you were at with the Maxx, but not quite as loose. I generally avoid the track when others are there. I don’t want to show up with my Kraton 4S and crash into some $3000 race rig (or worse). It actually seems like they are changing the track layout right now as they took my fun big jump out of the track and replaced it with a bunch of small bumps and turns.

When I try to drive from the stand, I end up flipping every 2 seconds, so I end up driving from the ground to be closer to flip my rig back over. Maybe I need a Maxx so it will self right ????‍♂️
 
It is similar to the track you were at with the Maxx, but not quite as loose. I generally avoid the track when others are there. I don’t want to show up with my Kraton 4S and crash into some $3000 race rig (or worse). It actually seems like they are changing the track layout right now as they took my fun big jump out of the track and replaced it with a bunch of small bumps and turns.

When I try to drive from the stand, I end up flipping every 2 seconds, so I end up driving from the ground to be closer to flip my rig back over. Maybe I need a Maxx so it will self right ????‍♂️

I'm just making an educated guess here, but starting out with a Proline Blockade in S3 compound is probably a decent place to start, with a Buckshot or Holeshot as options if the dirt is really fine.
 
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