Anybody Use a NON-polycarbonate Paint On An Arrma Body?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

drjim

Old And In The Way!
Premium Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
990
Reaction score
1,678
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Senton 6s
Hi, everybody

Has anybody tried just "regular" spray paint on an Arrma body? I'd like to repaint my original Limitless body in a high-visibility color scheme, and finding the paint color I want in a "Leaxn" type of paint is hard, while I can easily get it in enamel or lacquer. Since I have to peel all the stickers off and scuff sand it before painting, I'm a bit concerned about compatibility of the Arrma-applied paint with what ever I pick.

Any experience?
 
As a painter, any oil based spray paint should work but remember that all paints are different. I have painted a clear body and i have used Krylon Fusion and it worked fine for me. Remember that “regular” spray paint is NOT as transparent as something like Tamaya paint that is designed for the bodies and you have to go EXTREMELY light between coats. Its also not as flexible or adherent. Remember for the “seal” color that if you want it darker your last coat should be black and if you want a brighter color then the last coat should be white. Prep is everything, make sure it is completely clean so the paint that is not even designed for it can stick. In a Limitless you can get away with it because there isn’t too much flex or abuse on it. Krylon fusion is probably the best bet for plastic but that first coat has to be very light and dry for adhesion before you continue.
 
Hi, everybody

Has anybody tried just "regular" spray paint on an Arrma body? I'd like to repaint my original Limitless body in a high-visibility color scheme, and finding the paint color I want in a "Leaxn" type of paint is hard, while I can easily get it in enamel or lacquer. Since I have to peel all the stickers off and scuff sand it before painting, I'm a bit concerned about compatibility of the Arrma-applied paint with what ever I pick.

Any experience?

As @Cuzboss said the workable options with a rattle can are fairly limited. An airbrush and professional products is a different story. Pretty much the sky is the limit.
 
Oh forsure, i can take it extremely far (and believe me I have) but most people are not as OCD as me and don’t have the equipment necessary to do something that intricate. The simplest way to go about painting a body is Tamaya spray paint that is designed for lexan bodys. Anything further then your stepping into a whole different ballgame.
 
As a painter, any oil based spray paint should work but remember that all paints are different. I have painted a clear body and i have used Krylon Fusion and it worked fine for me. Remember that “regular” spray paint is NOT as transparent as something like Tamaya paint that is designed for the bodies and you have to go EXTREMELY light between coats. Its also not as flexible or adherent. Remember for the “seal” color that if you want it darker your last coat should be black and if you want a brighter color then the last coat should be white. Prep is everything, make sure it is completely clean so the paint that is not even designed for it can stick. In a Limitless you can get away with it because there isn’t too much flex or abuse on it. Krylon fusion is probably the best bet for plastic but that first coat has to be very light and dry for adhesion before you continue.


I've done plenty of painting, both 1:1 scale and static display models, so I'm quite familiar with what you're saying.

I was more concerned about how well a different kind of paint would bond to the paint that Arrma used on the body. Since my desired color scheme is a blinding white with Day Glo orange accents, white will be the base coat, followed by the orange, and then possibly a gloss clear so it's easy to wipe down and keep clean.
 
Are you going to be painting the outside of the body or the inside?
 
Worst case scenario it will just flake off but if you prep correctly and do many light coats with a good clearcoat you should be fine. With clearcoat you can get a cheap polyurethane type at home depot or id you want professional expensive type of clearcoat that hardens to a point where you can wax it then you can go to sherwin willians and pick up a can of 2K clearcoat (about 60-70$ a can) and very carefully apply it. I usually use 2K and the results are awesome, definitely worth the extra money to me but make sure you wear a respirator anytime you spray, especially that stuff.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top