Anyone Else Use WD40 Specialist Dry Lube? (Probably not the best option)

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Anyone Else Use WD40 Specialist Dry Lube? (Probably not the best option)

arrmedndangerous

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I needed to clean the grit out of my Senton, so pulled it apart a little more than I intended to and noticed the bearings were pretty gritty. The center driveshaft was spinning against the bearing since the bearing was no longer spinning. I remembered I have a can of WD40 Specialist dry lube, which is PTFE with a solvent that dries on a surface to lubricate without attracting dirt. I put the bearings in a cut off water bottle and sprayed them down. The grit started coming right out and I shook them around to get more out. Once they were dried out they all spun freely.

The dry lube seems to work like a charm on dirty bearings. The solvent cleaned the dirt out really fast and the PTFE lube left behind won't attract more dirt. Anyone else use this?

EDIT: So it seems pretty clear that this isn't going to be the best option for bearings. It may get you another run or two in a pinch, but long term isn't going to work all that well.

wdd-300059_ml.jpg
 
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I don't reccommend dry lube for BB lubrication. Whether it has PTFE (Teflon) or not.
What you consider solvent in it is just a carrier agent for the dry lube. So it has "some" solvent properties to it. It will evaporate leaving a "thin" wax based lube. I would rather use a dedicated Brake Cleaner solvent, using your same procedure. Then use an oil or if BB's have seals, removed for cleaning, fill BB with 1/3 grease. Replace both seals. Better longevity.
Dry lube is not adequate for BB's IMHO. Not enough Shear strength for the balls and races. Not the best for high temps, especially motors.
My spin.
Have experimented with dry lube and BB's before. :cool:
I have tried WD Specialist GEL spray lube with some results. After cleaned with Brake solvent. Mostly on old OE Shielded BB's ( Non sealed) to revive them abit till I replace with sealed type BB's.
Not the best lube but is thin enough to flow into past the shields and thick enough when it dries to a thicker gel lube.
I feel it isnt best to use something that cleans and lubes in one application. Not for BB's at least. hard to get them cleanest. And dirt that remains is a liability. Just me.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner ( heated) and a drop of Dish soap in the cleaner bath for the most part. Then rinse with a Chlorinated brake cleaner spray. Then repack with Grease or a drop of oil depending. I will do this once, possibly twice, in the life of a BB.
Replacement BB's are cheap enough to have on hand always.
 
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Yas

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I would probably avoid using PTFE dry lube for bearings. I suspect they'll run hotter as it may not take long for the balls to wear through the waxy film the PTFE will leave. Using brake cleaner or WD40 would also free up the bearing from dirt and rust to the same effect. I reckon it'll be decent for pivot balls, plastic bushings and A arms/hinge pins though

I pack my bearings with grease, spin them rapidly to release and wipe away the excess, then dab a small drop of silicone lube on them
 

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The grease/ silicone trick. (y)
I have used 1/3 grease and a tiny drop of oil for my speed run rigs BB's. Both my oil and Grease are compatible. (Super lube)
 

arrmedndangerous

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I don't reccommend dry lube for BB lubrication. Whether it has PTFE (Teflon) or not.
What you consider solvent in it is just a carrier agent for the dry lube. So it has "some" solvent properties to it. It will evaporate leaving a "thin" wax based lube. I would rather use a dedicated Brake Cleaner solvent, using your same procedure. Then use an oil or if BB's have seals, removed for cleaning, fill BB with 1/3 grease. Replace both seals. Better longevity.
Dry lube is not adequate for BB's IMHO. Not enough Shear strength for the balls and races. Not the best for high temps, especially motors.
My spin.
Have experimented with dry lube and BB's before. :cool:
I have tried WD Specialist GEL spray lube with some results. After cleaned with Brake solvent. Mostly on old OE Shielded BB's ( Non sealed) to revive them abit till I replace with sealed type BB's.
Not the best lube but is thin enough to flow into past the shields and thick enough when it dries to a thicker gel lube.
I feel it isnt best to use something that cleans and lubes in one application. Not for BB's at least. hard to get them cleanest. And dirt that remains is a liability. Just me.
That's what I was wondering. Dry lube certainly isn't the highest performing lubricant available. Probably fine to quickly clean out for a couple sessions, but not adequate in the long run.

The bearings in question are stock 3s BLX. Maybe I'll pull my Senton apart and re clean them and try another lube. Looks like some better sealed bearings are in order. Can you service the stock bearings?
 

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You can surely service the stock shielded bearings. Sealed BB's will just last longer and can be cleaned and lubed well during its useful life. And well they are sealed. Keeps dirt ingress at bay for the most part.
Hey I still have some OE shielded BB's here as backups in a pinch. Good enough to keep bashing.:)
I have an RPM Bearing blaster, that I use much of the time for Shielded BB's. BB mounts inside and then you use a brake cleaner solvent. Forces out dirt completely. Remove both seals on sealed BB's to use the B Blaster. Best results, without seals of course. Been using this B. Blaster for more than 25 years. I have a large and small one for different size BB's. A Cheap tool that will keep BB's lasting for a while. BB's should be cleaned after 15 -20 runs. Or more if you drive dirty and wet. I find 15-20 runs is my average. If you are Blowing out BB's between cleanings, you should clean them more often. Everyone RC's differently.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=rpm bearing blaster&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-34002-13078-0&mkcid=2&keyword=rpm bearing blaster&crlp=_5057&MT_ID=&geo_id=&rlsatarget=kwd-77378307943100:loc-190&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=59981&poi=&abcId=&cmpgn=395409297&sitelnk=&adgroupid=1238050299933868&network=o&matchtype=e&msclkid=e68e59717689153d47aa383354814649

Ultrasonic cleaning takes it to the next level.

All BB's will just wear out. Get worn and sloppy. Pay special attention to Motor BB's, or your motor armature will explode and you will be buying a motor, when all you needed were a fresh set of motor BB's. Need to have spares on hand. Be prepared. Part of the hobby.
 
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arrmedndangerous

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Just pulled the center driveshaft bearing out of the Senton and yeah, not super slick after a few runs.

So I have access to a plethora of chemicals and tech at work for working on stuff. Are ultrasonic cleaners good for cleaning them out? The bearing blasters look like cool little gadgets for getting the dirt out.
 

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Not anything new at all. Noticed many here don't use the Bearing Blaster. Or even heard of it. They have 2 sizes.
Track guys were doing this many years ago. That's when it was most popular. When a complete set of basic BB's for most rigs cost close to $80.

Nowadays many feel they are cheap enough to replace. And they are, but still can be cleaned to double or triple their life. Nowadays, a Ceramic set of BB's are around $80. give or take.

https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/tools/bearing-blaster/

file:///D:/Downloads/81170-Bearing-Blaster.pdf
 
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Grimbles

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+1 bearing blaster for cleaning, v effective in my experience.

I've also been using (at someone else's reccomendation) wet chain lube for bikes on my bearings. It's hydrophobic and I have good results so far. I found the rc bearing oil I had purchased far too light and thin compared to stock and it seemed gone after a few runs. So far so good with wet chain lube (c.15 packs).
 
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