Fireteam Anyone else with bad motor mount screws?

[Ferrebee88]

My motor mount screws came out of tolerance, so I cannot get them off without drilling them or using a dremel... a 2.5mm hex key fits in the slot very loosely and will strip for sure if I put torque on it. The other screws have a much tighter tolerance. What gives?

 

[Tex Koder]

My motor mount screws came out of tolerance, so I cannot get them off without drilling them or using a dremel... a 2.5mm hex key fits in the slot very loosely and will strip for sure if I put torque on it. The other screws have a much tighter tolerance. What gives?View attachment 259150

those cheapoAssianmonkey screws..? Can't seem to get their sizes right, let alone the metal...


Best to get your hand on some of these Serious USA crafted Titanium bolts by @RedondoBeachRC >>

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/titanium-6s-motor-mount-screws.56881/

 

[dure16]

Yeah, those screws suck. I’d replace with some M4 socket screws. 18mm long.

I like the Scorched RC screws but they’re a little pricey and they take weeks to arrive.

I’m sure you can find something cheaper.

 

[Ferrebee88]

I have machined hex drivers. I even heated up the screws with a butane lighter. The tolerance is just too loose on those particular screws. I guess I'll use my Dremel and turn them into flat head screws... anyone got a better idea?

 

[Tex Koder]

I have machined hex drivers. I even heated up the screws with a butane lighter. The tolerance is just too loose on those particular screws. I guess I'll use my Dremel and turn them into flat head screws... anyone got a better idea?

Unfortunately that's about the only (cheap) way to get them off..

 

[PeighDay]

unfortunately those motor mount screws are complete garbage. Replaced those right away on my 6s rigs.

those cheapoAssianmonkey screws..? Can't seem to get their sizes right, let alone the metal...


Best to get your hand on some of these Serious USA crafted Titanium bolts by @RedondoBeachRC >>

View attachment 259151

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/titanium-6s-motor-mount-screws.56881/

I second the titanium motor screw mounts from @RedondoBeachRC. Got some in last week and they are top notch.

 

[Adiabatic]

Pan head screws are usually low grade steel, as they're not commonly made in 10.9/12.9 grades, and therefore they strip easily. Slot them, then replace with a button/cap head and washer is my suggestion.

 

[Ferrebee88]

Pan head screws are usually low grade steel, as they're not commonly made in 10.9/12.9 grades, and therefore they strip easily. Slot them, then replace with a button/cap head and washer is my suggestion.

That is probably what I will do since I have plenty of those in reserve.

 

[RCbuzz]

I wish Arrma would just use socket heads and washers...

 

[Camaroboy383]

You can usually use a torx bit... Even if you have to give it some love taps... definitely use the heat just the same.. heat em good..

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

I have machined hex drivers. I even heated up the screws with a butane lighter. The tolerance is just too loose on those particular screws. I guess I'll use my Dremel and turn them into flat head screws... anyone got a better idea?

Torx bit worked for me

I also have the grade 5 titanium screws M4x18mm

 

[Sandracer_NL]

I use stainless steel M4 cap head for the motor mount. I know titanium is super strong, but a stainless M4 cap head with hex 3mm also does the job and you can have about a hundred (!) of those for the cost of one titanium one.

 

[RC-Dude]

Torx is the way to go for those screws. When adjusting the mesh it sometimes takes a few tries until the mesh is right. Hex-Tools are often just not exact enough. And some hex screws are not manufactured too exactly. That adds up at times and destroys the screw.

Also when using a tiny bit of loctite you can loosen the screws without heat when using torx.

I tend to change other screws to stainless steel V2A (but hex) when wrenching.

 

[Engineer]

Yup, those screws suck. I replaced them with flanged M4 SHCS from McMaster-Carr. Not as flashy as some of those shown above but it does the trick:

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3417

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

Those are the second most annoying thing on an arrma. The first place being the grub screws that are soaked in loctite and put next to plastic parts so you can't melt the TL.

 

[Sandracer_NL]

I use stainless steel M4 cap head for the motor mount. I know titanium is super strong, but a stainless M4 cap head with hex 3mm also does the job and you can have about a hundred (!) of those for the cost of one titanium one.

Or you can support a fellow forum member who MAKES titanium screws!!
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/titanium-6s-motor-mount-screws.56881/page-2

 

[Boggs3010]

Yes just serviced my new Fireteam, one of the 2 screws is stripped. And all 3 differentials were low on fluids . And a few rusty screws here are 2 of them.

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Yes just serviced my new Fireteam, one of the 2 screws is stripped. And all 3 differentials were low on fluids . And a few rusty screws here are 2 of them.

View attachment 259217

View attachment 259218

View attachment 259219

View attachment 259220

My center diff leaked dry and all screws were covered in oil so no rust.
It was pretty bad out of the box:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/fireteam-build.57631/

 

[Boggs3010]

Oh and the front and rear diffs outer gear was nearly dry. Lubed those of course.

 

[Ferrebee88]

You can usually use a torx bit... Even if you have to give it some love taps... definitely use the heat just the same.. heat em good..

I used a t15 torx bit and hammered it in to get these screws loose. Do you think they used enough thread locker?