Anyone ever 3d print tires (and have tested them)?

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sr925713

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Arrma RC's
  1. Outcast 6s
I've been thinking about testing a few designs for a TPU print of my own tires for my outcast 6s, just for fun. PETG wheel with a TPU tire that attach to each other via M4x25mm bolts. I got the inspiration from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:526969


Probably won't work too well, but its worth a try.

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Yes i've done several sets of paddle tires.. tpu is useless as far as traction on tar or concrete, (may as well be on ice).. but the traction on snow, sand dirt was phenomenal.. i got all last winter season out of a set... Main thing is being sure you have good layer / wall adhesion or they will unravel quick like.. it's best to over extrude a little..👍.. keep in mind as they get colder they will chip chucks off of paddles but you should have no issue for quite some time / use...

They are impressive, wheelie like a champ in snow/ sand and roosting chunks on grass dirt.. i of course designed my own but i have seen the ones you posted... You need to keep in mind also that if your running an arrma rig you will need large open rims to clear hubs and such, so the rims he has posted likely will not work for you.. ✌️

Good luck..
 
The design is for a far different rim than the outcast/ noto unfortunately.. they were put on some 3s redcats so they were designed for 2.8 rims...
 
Yes it's over on thingiverse.. under the same user name as here..✌️
 
I watched a video where a guy did it to get his RC to cross water, looked like they worked pretty good for that and sand as @Camaroboy383 suggests.

That guy makes some weird stuff, but it's entertaining to watch just the same.


Simon is a good kid.. I watch his channel frequently.. the brushless surfboard was a trip.. 😎
 
Yes i've done several sets of paddle tires.. tpu is useless as far as traction on tar or concrete, (may as well be on ice).. but the traction on snow, sand dirt was phenomenal.. i got all last winter season out of a set... Main thing is being sure you have good layer / wall adhesion or they will unravel quick like.. it's best to over extrude a little..👍.. keep in mind as they get colder they will chip chucks off of paddles but you should have no issue for quite some time / use...

They are impressive, wheelie like a champ in snow/ sand and roosting chunks on grass dirt.. i of course designed my own but i have seen the ones you posted... You need to keep in mind also that if your running an arrma rig you will need large open rims to clear hubs and such, so the rims he has posted likely will not work for you.. ✌️

Good luck..
Can you help me on this? I printed the rim in petg and the tire part in tpu. It was spic for 8mins even did a massive jump. But i did a small tumble on co crete and petgs exploded. I had 12 or so and bottom layers on the petg rim trying to reinforce the hex part
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Tpu part also kinda became a rock. It was already stiff because of the infill. 15% gyroid was too much
 
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Can you help me on this? I printed the rim in petg and the tire part in tpu. It was spic for 8mins even did a massive jump. But i did a snall tumble on co crete and petgs exploded. I had 12 or so so and bottom layers on the petg rim trying to reinforce the hex part
View attachment 267675View attachment 267676View attachment 267677
Tpu part also kinda became a rock. It was already stiff becausebof the infill. 15% gyroid was too much
Do you have a link for those wheel and tire files?

I think your problem here is the PETG. Do you have nylon?
 
Do you have a link for those wheel and tire files?

I think your problem here is the PETG. Do you have nylon?
No unfortunatly im not setup for nylon yet i don't have an active filament dryer and hardened nozzles but i have all metal heatbreaks
One sec for the files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911933
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911947
I kinda want to cancel the 2 extea spools of petg i ordered after seeing this. They were on same. These were printed with overture petg my main brand is duramic3D
 
No unfortunatly im not setup for nylon yet i don't have an active filament dryer and hardened nozzles but i have all metal heatbreaks
One sec for the files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911933
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911947
I kinda want to cancel the 2 extea spools of petg i ordered after seeing this. They were on same. These were printed with overture petg my main brand is duramic3D
Thanks for the files. You’re right that nylon is abrasive and eats away at brass nozzles, but the effect isn’t that extreme. I print nylon all the time with brass nozzles and still get probably 90% of normal life out of them.

I’d spend the $50 for a filament dryer and try out nylon. Overture Easy Nylon is a good one to start with.

PS when printing rims, I make sure the center of the rim is at 100% infill.
 
No unfortunatly im not setup for nylon yet i don't have an active filament dryer and hardened nozzles but i have all metal heatbreaks
One sec for the files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911933
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911947
I kinda want to cancel the 2 extea spools of petg i ordered after seeing this. They were on same. These were printed with overture petg my main brand is duramic3D

It's ok that you have ha hardened nozzle and metal heat break, but it isn't really needed... But the dryer is, especially on a long print like that..

Petg is the problem.. unless you make that rim solid and very thick in the hub it's going to break unfortunately.. I use factory rims with TPU paddles specifically designed for those rims.. as mentioned above, nylons, pctpe, would be ideal if your dead set on printing rims..

Taulman 910 or 230 would be your best bet with your machine setup, you can stick the roll in a food dehydrator and print if you have one..👍

The TPU will be rock hard, especially in lower temps.. that's normal, I wouldn't concern yourself with the stiffness of the TPU.. 👍
 
It's ok that you have ha hardened nozzle and metal heat break, but it isn't really needed... But the dryer is, especially on a long print like that..

Petg is the problem.. unless you make that rim solid and very thick in the hub it's going to break unfortunately.. I use factory rims with TPU paddles specifically designed for those rims.. as mentioned above, nylons, pctpe, would be ideal if your dead set on printing rims..

Taulman 910 or 230 would be your best bet with your machine setup, you can stick the roll in a food dehydrator and print if you have one..👍

The TPU will be rock hard, especially in lower temps.. that's normal, I wouldn't concern yourself with the stiffness of the TPU.. 👍
I don't have a hardened nozzle only brass ones. My dryer is my printer bed or my portable oil heater i store all my filaments with sealable bags and reusable silica bags
Thanks for the files. You’re right that nylon is abrasive and eats away at brass nozzles, but the effect isn’t that extreme. I print nylon all the time with brass nozzles and still get probably 90% of normal life out of them.

I’d spend the $50 for a filament dryer and try out nylon. Overture Easy Nylon is a good one to start with.

PS when printing rims, I make sure the center of the rim is at 100% infill.
Prusa slicer i think has that feature otherwire it would print solid
It's ok that you have ha hardened nozzle and metal heat break, but it isn't really needed... But the dryer is, especially on a long print like that..

Petg is the problem.. unless you make that rim solid and very thick in the hub it's going to break unfortunately.. I use factory rims with TPU paddles specifically designed for those rims.. as mentioned above, nylons, pctpe, would be ideal if your dead set on printing rims..

Taulman 910 or 230 would be your best bet with your machine setup, you can stick the roll in a food dehydrator and print if you have one..👍

The TPU will be rock hard, especially in lower temps.. that's normal, I wouldn't concern yourself with the stiffness of the TPU.. 👍
Do you think 100% infill/walls with petg would work? The price to get it setup going to cost me more than buying a a pair of proline dumonts
 
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I don't have a hardened nozzle only brass ones. My dryer is my printer bed or my portable oil heater i store all my filaments with sealable bags and reusable silica bags

Prusa slicer i think has that feature otherwire it would print solid

Do you think 100% infill/walls with petg would work? The price to get it setup going to cost me more than buying a a pair of proline dumonts

No, they will still break, will be stronger but will break.. petg is quite fragile..

A cardboard box or garbage bag over the printer is good enough enclosure wise, just need a dryer to dry as it prints.. nylons are very hygroscopic, it will take in mass amounts of water by the time it's done printing...
 
No, they will still break, will be stronger but will break.. petg is quite fragile..

A cardboard box or garbage bag over the printer is good enough enclosure wise, just need a dryer to dry as it prints.. nylons are very hygroscopic, it will take in mass amounts of water by the time it's done printing...
Yeah i know that i have a fokoos odin and and ender 3. Im going to think about it. I was planning to use petg to print someone my rc car related stuff like splitter ect and other little creations. I have used pla+ on my rc car and they haven't broken yet. Specially on my felony for the rock deflectors
 
Yeah i know that i have a fokoos odin and and ender 3. Im going to think about it. I was planning to use petg to print someone my rc car related stuff like splitter ect and other little creations. I have used pla+ on my rc car and they haven't broken yet. Specially on my felony for the rock deflectors

This may sound silly, but try them in the pla.. on paper petg says it's stronger, in some cases it is, but it's more fragile than pla beleive it or not..
 
I printed a PLA foosball player for my table a while back (they take a tone of abuse just for context). What I did was have about 50% infill and super thick walls. I think 4mm. It's held up better than the oem foosball players.
 
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