Anyone have experience with ASA?

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LibertyMKiii

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Tried out ASA for the first time and it didn't stick to my bed at all.

Going to try Kapton tape tomorrow. Anyone have any solid advice? I had seen mixing acetone and some of the filament to make a liquid that you can brush onto the bed to make a film that I may try also.

How concerned about fumes should I be with ASA? I got an air purifier in the room that can capture VOCs. Will that be enough?
 
I haven't used ASA before..
But, if it's anything like ABS, you could try using some hairspray on the bed to see if that helps.

I used Tresemme' Extra Hold hair spray.
Spray it on a microfiber cloth and wipe it on the bed. Let dry for a couple of seconds then you can print.
 
I have used asa a few times. I use a bed adhesive called magi goo that stuff will stick anything down. It can be found on Amazon. As far as the fumes I’m not sure as I am not too worried about them. The printer area has a hepa with charcoal filter designed for an area of about 3 times the size of what it’s actually in and everything has its own enclosure.
 
I have used asa a few times. I use a bed adhesive called magi goo that stuff will stick anything down. It can be found on Amazon. As far as the fumes I’m not sure as I am not too worried about them. The printer area has a hepa with charcoal filter designed for an area of about 3 times the size of what it’s actually in and everything has its own enclosure.
And honestly those fumes pale in comparison to the fumes you huff all day at work 🤣🤣🤘🏻🤘🏻
 
I have used asa a few times. I use a bed adhesive called magi goo that stuff will stick anything down. It can be found on Amazon. As far as the fumes I’m not sure as I am not too worried about them. The printer area has a hepa with charcoal filter designed for an area of about 3 times the size of what it’s actually in and everything has its own enclosure.

Thanks I'll order some Magi goo and I have an air purifier with charcoal filter to capture VOCs. Sounds like this setup will work.
 
Sooooooo this stuff is challenging.

Setup was Kapton tape on the bed
Magigoo on top of the tape.

98c hot bed
250c extruder
Polymaker ASA
Fan speed 10%
40mm travel speed

A/C for this room turned off, door closed, and put up 2 of those boards used for science fairs around the printer (eliminates drafts and helps keep everything stable/warm)

The parts stuck with the magi goo, but lifted the tape off the bed because the warping was so strong along with the bond to the Kapton tape.

1650123952822.png


Not sure where to go from here? I read something about the heating PID control tuning might be good to look at, but never have this issue with PLA.
Maybe the 98c was too hot on the bed?

Any ideas or direction for what to try next would be appreciated.
 
Sooooooo this stuff is challenging.

Setup was Kapton tape on the bed
Magigoo on top of the tape.

98c hot bed
250c extruder
Polymaker ASA
Fan speed 10%
40mm travel speed

A/C for this room turned off, door closed, and put up 2 of those boards used for science fairs around the printer (eliminates drafts and helps keep everything stable/warm)

The parts stuck with the magi goo, but lifted the tape off the bed because the warping was so strong along with the bond to the Kapton tape.

View attachment 212252

Not sure where to go from here? I read something about the heating PID control tuning might be good to look at, but never have this issue with PLA.
Maybe the 98c was too hot on the bed?

Any ideas or direction for what to try next would be appreciated.
Your settings are good. Get rid of the tape and just use the magigoo. Just don’t remove the part until it completely cools off. That is a sure sign it is cooling down fast on the bed. I would get a few more pieces of board and close it completely off. It doesn’t take much to cool it off too quickly. Once a corner lifts the cooling happens very quickly.
Fan off the first 10 layers and add a skirt if the part allows. Should be good after that.
 
Your settings are good. Get rid of the tape and just use the magigoo. Just don’t remove the part until it completely cools off. That is a sure sign it is cooling down fast on the bed. I would get a few more pieces of board and close it completely off. It doesn’t take much to cool it off too quickly. Once a corner lifts the cooling happens very quickly.
Fan off the first 10 layers and add a skirt if the part allows. Should be good after that.
One of the challenges with the CR10 S pro is that all the guts are under the bed.
What are your thoughts with an enclosure like this?

1650659614931.png
1650659644396.png
 
One of the challenges with the CR10 S pro is that all the guts are under the bed.
What are your thoughts with an enclosure like this?

View attachment 213389View attachment 213390

BEFORE you spend hard earned money for that enclosure.. Just get a few more cardboard and close off your printer. To test and see.

Or, even 1/2" insulation board like (R-Tech , HomeDepot) 4'x8' for $10
 
I suppose I should have been more specific about my concerns....
I wouldn't spend that crazy amount on an enclosure, but more so wondering if that sort of design has enough airflow to keep the electronics underneath cool. I wish this one was more like the ender series where the guts lived away from the printer bed.
 
Simply elevate the "cardboard case" by sticking a couple of 1x4"s to prop up the enclosure.. You're just trying to close off the print bed.
That way the electronics still have some airflow going in from the bottom.

For now.. Just to test if it'll help improve with your printing results...
 
One of the challenges with the CR10 S pro is that all the guts are under the bed.
What are your thoughts with an enclosure like this?

View attachment 213389View attachment 213390
Honestly I kinda feel this is overkill. I completely close mine off and the whole machine bakes in there. I could care less if a board burns up they cost about as much as a decent lunch. I haven’t had one let go yet but when I do maybe then I will worry about it but honestly probably not lol just get some foam board Inbox it out with like a plexi window and just slide that bad boy over it.
 
I am building a stand for my 3DP. Just built the base tonight and got a coat of paint on it. Tomorrow I need to cut the ACX, sand and paint that, and I should be ready to get my setup ready for good prints. My tent doesn't fit my current table and that table also wobbles badly. This new stand is 4x4 and 2x4 base with 23/32 ACX shelves. Should be plenty heavy enough to keep it from moving.
 
Honestly I kinda feel this is overkill. I completely close mine off and the whole machine bakes in there. I could care less if a board burns up they cost about as much as a decent lunch. I haven’t had one let go yet but when I do maybe then I will worry about it but honestly probably not lol just get some foam board Inbox it out with like a plexi window and just slide that bad boy over it.
That is good to know. I may move it to the garage and do just that.
 
Alright printing Wizards it got much better, but still getting some warping.

I ordered the Creality enclosure and have to say I really like it. It was holding around 120+ F inside the enclosure throughout the print.
Yet it still warped on me on the ends.

I had attempted magigoo direct on the original Creality plate (prepped it first by wiping it down with 70% IPA and gave it a good scrape).... it didn't stick. Gave it second try by reinstalling kapton tape and magigoo on top. This time it stuck well. Finished the print and let it sit for a few hours to slowly cool down. Still warped and pulled the tape up with it.

I believe the build plate heat needs to stay on longer? Just taking a guess.... what do the experts think?
250c nozzle 98c bed

1651098939296.png
 
I haven’t had these kinds of trouble with ASA. Some warping yes, but not near as bad as what you’re seeing here.

Any reason you aren’t using a brim? Adding a 10mm brim around the part might fix all your warping issues (along with the enclosure, which is crucial). Look into acetone smoothing if you’re concerned about the brim removal causing visual imperfections. Acetone smoothing is the best thing about ASA/ABS.

70% IPA is a little weak. I use this stuff.

I print a little hotter at 260. Bed at 100.
 
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I haven’t had these kinds of trouble with ASA. Some warping yes, but not near as bad as what you’re seeing here.

Any reason you aren’t using a brim? Adding a 10mm brim around the part might fix all your warping issues (along with the enclosure, which is crucial). Look into acetone smoothing if you’re concerned about the brim removal causing visual imperfections. Acetone smoothing is the best thing about ASA/ABS.

70% IPA is a little weak. I use this stuff.

I print a little hotter at 260. Bed at 100.
Acetone smoothing was one of the primary reasons I wanted to try ASA along with the heat tolerance. I plan to make some very large multi piece prints this summer and don't like the time and labor involved with the post processing sanding and bondo to get parts smooth.

I am going to give it another try today with the brim added, 100 bed (I was at 98c) and 260 nozzle (I was at 250c) and see how it goes. Also going to turn the fan off given I was at 10% that won't be a drastic change. When working with PLA increasing my nozzle temp by 10c fixed the warping I was seeing so this may do the trick again in this scenario. If it still fails I'll try flipping the bed, but cannot see any issues with initial bed adhesion given its pulling the tape up with it and sticking well until the end of the print.
 
A couple more things that could help (minor though):

Slow down your print speed further. I think I saw you wrote 40. Try 30.

Slow down your non-print moves. Max 100 mm/s. Maybe lower. (Moves the printed part slower and therefore reduces draft effect).

Orient the print to maximize head movement but minimize bed movement. (Moves the printed part less distance and therefore reduces draft effect).
 
Initial layers looked perfect. I really thought this would be the ticket this time!
  • 260c nozzle 100c bed
  • 0% cooling fan
  • Brim around print
  • 40mm print speed

The right side towards the center of the bed turned out great:

1651162504092.png


The left side towards the outside of the bed not so much....

1651162648223.png


Although you see gaps in those brim lines they were all nice and together initially before the warping occurred.
 
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