Anyone have experience with ASA?

[dure16]

I'd be checking into why the warping only happens on the same side each time. Is there a cold draft sneaking in on that side of the enclosure?

Maybe try rotating all parts by 90 degrees so that a long end is on the problematic side of the bed.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I'd be checking into why the warping only happens on the same side each time. Is there a cold draft sneaking in on that side of the enclosure?

Maybe try rotating all parts by 90 degrees so that a long end is on the problematic side of the bed.

That is where my mind went also...
I was thinking of adding a second layer of insulation to the enclosure.... I can see into the enclosure through the zippers.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Been there done that before ended up fighting it for a long time resolved it by lowering the nozzle to about as far as I could without it clogging and slowing down my initial layers down to 20 mm first five layers I believe it was

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Been there done that before ended up fighting it for a long time resolved it by lowering the nozzle to about as far as I could without it clogging and slowing down my initial layers down to 20 mm first five layers I believe it was

Cool, I'll give that a shot and move the print to be more centered in the bed also.
Along with trying to insulate the enclosure more.

I feel like I am getting really close now.

 

[jondilly1974]

At what point do you need a draft guard printed around your part?

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

At what point do you need a draft guard printed around your part?

Personally the only time I have ever had to resort to that is when I was printing pure nylon but that was simply because it’s above and beyond the capabilities of an ender three series on the way I was able to get that to work was to knock my print speed down next to nothing with a draft shield and even then it still wasn’t very durable it was separate on layers

 

[dure16]

At what point do you need a draft guard printed around your part?

I use it quite often with ASA, PC, and nylon. But not when I use a brim. Brim makes a bigger difference IMO but I only use it when necessary.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I really thought this time it was good.

• Moved the print to the center of the bed.
• 260c nozzle
• 105c bed
• Added insulation to the enclosure (a heavy blanket to block any possible airflow)
• 0% fan
• Full Brim around parts
• Magigoo on Kapton tape

Initial looks of completed print looked good

Still have some warping going on

Only thing I can think of next is to replace my print bed with glass.
What are the recommended brand or type? This original is long over due to be replaced anyway....

 

[dure16]

I really thought this time it was good.

• Moved the print to the center of the bed.
• 260c nozzle
• 105c bed
• Added insulation to the enclosure (a heavy blanket to block any possible airflow)
• 0% fan
• Full Brim around parts
• Magigoo on Kapton tape

Initial looks of completed print looked good

View attachment 214437

Still have some warping going on

View attachment 214438

Only thing I can think of next is to replace my print bed with glass.
What are the recommended brand or type? This original is long over due to be replaced anyway....

I don’t have any experience with glass beds but can recommend PEI.

As something else to try, maybe lower your bed temp a little. Perhaps 95.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I don’t have any experience with glass beds but can recommend PEI.

As something else to try, maybe lower your bed temp a little. Perhaps 95.

I give it a shot! I got nothing to lose

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Here is my 2 cents. The creality glass build plate is the best all around I have found. Except 1 small problem. The quality control. I have about 15 glass plates on hand right. Every single one is completely different and age and use has nothing to dye with it. They are all very good but some releases with zero effort and like the new one I literally just took off the machine to throw it away will not release without ripping the coating off it sticks too good. I find the ones that have a dull finish on them are the best ones. It will have like a sandblasting glass feeling. The super smooth shining ones are a nightmare. So that being said I would order personally the creality glass but if you get it and it’s shiny or smooth feeling send it back for a replacement because it’s going to do nothing but fight you removing your parts I do keep a couple of those around strictly for materials I have a hard time with adhesion because everything sticks to it like it’s permanently bonded kind of like a disposable build plate lol they’re not terribly expensive I always keep a few on hand as spares because they do eventually wear out from cleaning

 

[jondilly1974]

While I haven't printed exotic filaments yet... I love my glass bed. Nothing sticks forever, but as long as my e-steps and Z-offset are dialed, nothing lifts so far. I know that what you're working with is way harder, so it may not directly apply. But mine was super flat out of the box and fixed my warped bed issue.

Now if I would just learn to give up on bad spools way sooner I would have a lot more fun printing. Just fought with a spool of PTEG for TWO WEEKS! Wouldn't print well, so I dried it for TWO WEEKS. Got it down to 20% RH and still clogged and sputtered. Busted out a new spool and it prints flawlessly. FML

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

While I haven't printed exotic filaments yet... I love my glass bed. Nothing sticks forever, but as long as my e-steps and Z-offset are dialed, nothing lifts so far. I know that what you're working with is way harder, so it may not directly apply. But mine was super flat out of the box and fixed my warped bed issue.

Now if I would just learn to give up on bad spools way sooner I would have a lot more fun printing. Just fought with a spool of PTEG for TWO WEEKS! Wouldn't print well, so I dried it for TWO WEEKS. Got it down to 20% RH and still clogged and sputtered. Busted out a new spool and it prints flawlessly. FML

You have any idea how much I do that I swear I can bring it back lol

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Here is my 2 cents. The creality glass build plate is the best all around I have found. Except 1 small problem. The quality control. I have about 15 glass plates on hand right. Every single one is completely different and age and use has nothing to dye with it. They are all very good but some releases with zero effort and like the new one I literally just took off the machine to throw it away will not release without ripping the coating off it sticks too good. I find the ones that have a dull finish on them are the best ones. It will have like a sandblasting glass feeling. The super smooth shining ones are a nightmare. So that being said I would order personally the creality glass but if you get it and it’s shiny or smooth feeling send it back for a replacement because it’s going to do nothing but fight you removing your parts I do keep a couple of those around strictly for materials I have a hard time with adhesion because everything sticks to it like it’s permanently bonded kind of like a disposable build plate lol they’re not terribly expensive I always keep a few on hand as spares because they do eventually wear out from cleaning

I appreciate the advise.

 

[Vietnemesis]

Did you finally get it to print?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Did you finally get it to print?

I 99.9% believe it would with a glass bed. My only issue was that the tape was lifting off the bed.
I could see where a heater capable of 150+F inside the enclosure would be helpful as it warps during the cool down phases of the print. Ideally it would be controlled to slowly bring the temps down with a microcontroller or other similar method.

I was anxious to start a project and swapped back to printing with PLA.

 

[jondilly1974]

I 99.9% believe it would with a glass bed. My only issue was that the tape was lifting off the bed.
I could see where a heater capable of 150+F inside the enclosure would be helpful as it warps during the cool down phases of the print. Ideally it would be controlled to slowly bring the temps down with a microcontroller or other similar method.

I was anxious to start a project and swapped back to printing with PLA.

I just started using the Magigoo on my glass bed today and was finally able to finish a small PCTPE print that just would not stick no matter what before. It would lift on a corner and warp before finishing a 30 min print. And I had a huge brim on it too. Now I am trying to print a huge side skirt (tall) and waiting to see the outcome.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I just started using the Magigoo on my glass bed today and was finally able to finish a small PCTPE print that just would not stick no matter what before. It would lift on a corner and warp before finishing a 30 min print. And I had a huge brim on it too. Now I am trying to print a huge side skirt (tall) and waiting to see the outcome.

Magigoo is certainly good stuff.
Easy to clean after also

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Magigoo is certainly good stuff.
Easy to clean after also

I love it. Even when I use petg once it cools the part detaches itself.