Anyone interested in the new Redcat KAIJU MT 1/8

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Of course you can. How do you set droop on a 1/10 scale? They don’t have droop screws. Same thing.

Show me exactly where you would put a droop screw and where on its chassis it would rest... :rolleyes:

EDIT: I don't think you know what a droop screw is OR what it does...

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LOL, I guess Tekno invented 1/10 scale "droop" adjustment when they released droop screws on their EB410 and ET410 a couple of years ago. It must not have existed before then. :ROFLMAO:

Literally, look up "droop". You don't need a droop screw to set droop. The fact you don't even understand what droop is or how it affects the car explains pretty much why I am not using your "setup".
 
LOL, I guess Tekno invented 1/10 scale "droop" adjustment when they released droop screws on their EB410 and ET410 a couple of years ago. It must not have existed before then. :ROFLMAO:

Literally, look up "droop". You don't need a droop screw to set droop. The fact you don't even understand what droop is or how it affects the car explains pretty much why I am not using your "setup".

I know exactly what droop is, I raced for many years...

Droop is literally how much down travel you have in your a-arms like I've already mentioned. Up travel stays the same. You hit a jump, the bottom falls out (droop) Setting up the proper droop really only helps on a track mainly for traction on a bumpy surface, body roll traction and stopping traction, not necessarily needed in a MT.. Setting up a droop screw ALSO takes the stress off your shock piston AND the rod end. By putting the shocks onto the inner most hole on the tower and the outer most hole on the a-arm you lose maybe a couple MM of down travel. Also, doing it this way you are able to take out the preload and let it ride a bit lower hence allowing it to handle better with less COG AND less traction roll. This is a MT after all.. One of the other ways we used to adjust droop is to install shims on the inner shock shaft inside the shock body. This did the same thing as a screw..

Now, before you go sending others on a wild tangent drilling out the piston holes (I do that as well but I'm seasoned) OR spending money on "up-graded" shocks I'd recommend at least trying it the way I've mentioned.. I have no reason to lie about it working, mine is set up pretty stout...

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Of course you can. How do you set droop on a 1/10 scale? They don’t have droop screws. Same thing.
I honestly have no clue. I've never really bothered to look into it to be honest.
 
Ive had this thing for a few months now and ive gone thru 2 upper arms. Plastic spur gear just went out today after maybe 10 packs thru it.
Still have the stock plastic servo arm lol
Got a metal one to switch out when it strips out.


All in all still loving this truck
 
I've run about 10 packs through mine so far. So far broken servo horn, upper arm turnbuckle x 2, shock piston / e-clip, c-hub, couple of bent shock screws.
 
I drilled out my aluminum arms and tapped them to M6. The upper part of the holes for the rods is a little on the thin side, and you can see in one of the pictures that it's less than ideal. The stock holes weren't threaded all the way through and I don't think the stock rods threaded into this thinner area anyway, so I don't think it's a major loss in strength. I bought 2 sets of rods to start out with, M6 double end at 40mm length for the front and M6 threaded all the way across at 50mm for the rear. The stock rods are 40mm for the front and 44mm for the rear (and 64mm for the steering rods).

This front rod is the worst in terms of the threads getting too close to the walls of the aluminum upper arm. I tried drilling a small hole through the unthreaded part, but the 304 stainless is pretty hard to drill through. I settled for making 2 flat parts on opposite sides with the dremel.
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Putting a nut on each end of the rod makes it easier to hold in place for drilling or grinding without running the risk of damaging threads in a clamp.
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Rear arms. The threads are bulging through a little, but better than the one front arm pictured above. The 50mm length seems about perfect because the top of the rod is about flush the top of the hole in the arm. I used some red locktite to help lock the nuts on.
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For now I'm sticking with the plastic rod ends. These don't seem to be a weak point. Just be careful about threading them on. I threaded one on too far thinking I'd be able to tell when I hit bottom and ended up breaking through. If you're looking to duplicate my work, I'd suggest getting a set of the steering rods because they come with 4 rod ends for about the same price as you pay for the 2 you'd get with the upper arm sets. All the rod ends are the same as far as I can tell.

The threads that I tapped into the aluminum arms seem as loose as the stock threads. I've tried using thread tape, but it doesn't seem to hold up well to jumping. I think I'm going to try tightening them up to the nuts on the rear and all the way to the end and tightening until I run out of thread on the fronts. I did some jumps this afternoon for a little bit and they seemed to hold up fine, better than the thin stock rods did at least.

The stock rods weigh about 12 grams each. Despite the rears having a 4mm longer rod, they weigh the same on my scale. My new fronts weigh 21 grams and the rears are 24 grams.
 
Truck doesn't have enough droop that way. Doesn't fix the spring and damping problem either.
Razor. It's a MT made to bash and get thrown around. Hehe. I think that you over think some of these basher rigs too much, but you have lots of experience racing around a track etc. I just go straight and try to get as much air as possible 🤣
Is it true that the Kaiju was recently renamed the Pooju? Asking for a friend.
Are you mocking the Kaiju? Hehe. That was funny. I've beat the crap out of both of my Kaijus and they hold up pretty well. Believe it or not, better than my Outcast 6s and Kraton 6s ever did. Those would only last maybe 3 jumps and there goes another bulkhead, wing mount, popped pillow ball. And that's after upgrading them and spending almost $1k. That was my experience. Now the V3 Granite BLX is way more durable than all of the mentioned rigs. Hehe.
 
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I've settled on this approach of using the M6x50mm threaded rods with the lock nuts snugged against the upper arms. The threads are a little loose so this prevents them from wobbling. I measured the depth of the holes in the plastic rod ends and set the lock nut at the appropriate spot on the rod and additionally secured the lock nut with red locktite. I used a bit of blue locktite to help hold the rods in the upper arms. To adjust the camber, I do have to unbolt the rod end from the rest of the suspension and I can basically only adjust in half turn increments, but it's good enough for my purposes. 45mm rods would work better in the front as the 50mm rods stick up out of the top of the arm, but no big deal.
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I've run about 10 packs through mine so far. So far broken servo horn, upper arm turnbuckle x 2, shock piston / e-clip, c-hub, couple of bent shoc
Are you having the same breakages on the v2 that you had on the v1?
I know exactly what droop is, I raced for many years...

Droop is literally how much down travel you have in your a-arms like I've already mentioned. Up travel stays the same. You hit a jump, the bottom falls out (droop) Setting up the proper droop really only helps on a track mainly for traction on a bumpy surface, body roll traction and stopping traction, not necessarily needed in a MT.. Setting up a droop screw ALSO takes the stress off your shock piston AND the rod end. By putting the shocks onto the inner most hole on the tower and the outer most hole on the a-arm you lose maybe a couple MM of down travel. Also, doing it this way you are able to take out the preload and let it ride a bit lower hence allowing it to handle better with less COG AND less traction roll. This is a MT after all.. One of the other ways we used to adjust droop is to install shims on the inner shock shaft inside the shock body. This did the same thing as a screw..

Now, before you go sending others on a wild tangent drilling out the piston holes (I do that as well but I'm seasoned) OR spending money on "up-graded" shocks I'd recommend at least trying it the way I've mentioned.. I have no reason to lie about it working, mine is set up pretty stout...

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what motor/esc is that? Does it run cooler than stock?
 
Are you having the same breakages on the v2 that you had on the v1?

Different parts. The V1 was my buddy's, we broke a spur gear, multiple outdrives, upper arm (rod end, not turnbuckle), bumper, I think that's it. They fixed all of those in the V2, and now I'm breaking different parts.
 
Different parts. The V1 was my buddy's, we broke a spur gear, multiple outdrives, upper arm (rod end, not turnbuckle), bumper, I think that's it. They fixed all of those in the V2, and now I'm breaking different parts.
My rear output drives are getting a little worn out. Im not sure how much longer they will last. They seem a little small for the power going thru them
 
Im thinking about putting some 1/8 buggy tires on and trying to race with some buddies.
Does anyone have any they can try out for me and take a picture?
Ive already lowered the stance as much as i can, it runs alot better than it did but i think the tires are a bit bulky for racing
 
Im thinking about putting some 1/8 buggy tires on and trying to race with some buddies.
Does anyone have any they can try out for me and take a picture?
Ive already lowered the stance as much as i can, it runs alot better than it did but i think the tires are a bit bulky for racing
I'd have to agree about the tires being too bulky for racing and IMO this thing would look incredibly ridiculous on a track racing with 1/8th buggy tires on it. If your racing against 1/8th buggy's (I cant even think why that would be happening) your going to get smoked and probably tic off the other racers.
 
Are you having the same breakages on the v2 that you had on the v1?

what motor/esc is that? Does it run cooler than stock?

About 60 degrees out yesterday, I was running it up and down the street. Crazy wheelie machine for the whole 4s 5000mah pack non-stop back and forth about 100 yards each direction on its back tires. I temped the motor the second it hit LVC and it was at 178 without a fan. ESC was in the 120's.
 
The part you are referring to with the red arrow is indeed a nut. I also have the kaiju thing. I love all of my arrmas. The Kaiju I can do without now that i have used it for a while. The rear cv driveshafts break everytime i run it. I run it on 6s for which it is rated. As long as I come out of the hole very slow, which makes the 6s ready rhetoric completely useless or leave the punch setting on 3 or lower they last longer, not much fun in that. On 6s and the esc tuned up to where it is actually fun then I loose axles. This time it bent the output cup on the rear diff and took out both rear cv shafts. Starting to look like a parts vehicle now.
 
The part you are referring to with the red arrow is indeed a nut. I also have the kaiju thing. I love all of my arrmas. The Kaiju I can do without now that i have used it for a while. The rear cv driveshafts break everytime i run it. I run it on 6s for which it is rated. As long as I come out of the hole very slow, which makes the 6s ready rhetoric completely useless or leave the punch setting on 3 or lower they last longer, not much fun in that. On 6s and the esc tuned up to where it is actually fun then I loose axles. This time it bent the output cup on the rear diff and took out both rear cv shafts. Starting to look like a parts vehicle now.

You have to get the drive cup, cups. I haven't broken a single anything on this rig other than strip out the spur which is now Redcat steel.

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