Anyone interested in the new Redcat KAIJU MT 1/8

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Good to know. I seem to remember something about moving shock position or lowering the suspension. I think it was to help prevent splitting diff cups. Is that still necessary? If i use the bearing mod (over top of the diff cups), will lowering the suspension be necessary in your opinion?
Probably not necessary, the lower arms can just as easily be over extended as over compressed, they flex alot. Which I believe is the culprit of the split drive cups. But you can move the shock mounts furthest inward on top, outward at the bottom. Some have had success by doing that. Watch for ring marks on the axles, near the diff cups, a tell tale sign the suspension is traveling too far in one direction or the other.
 
Woah. So when did the original kaiju start coming with a metal spur as standard??? Just cracked mine open to install the yeah racing (power hobby) fan and low and behold...

I was pretty sure from all my read throughs of this thread, that everyone says the first thing you need to do is change to a metal spur if running 6s.
 
That is very cool! I asked their support team if the OG Kaiju now came with a steel spur. They said no, it would need to be purchased separately. They also said they "fixed" the issues of broken drive cups and broken turnbuckles but did not elaborate how...
 
That is very cool! I asked their support team if the OG Kaiju now came with a steel spur. They said no, it would need to be purchased separately. They also said they "fixed" the issues of broken drive cups and broken turnbuckles but did not elaborate how...
Not sure if I got lucky or if all of them come with it now. It's the "metal powder" spur I'm pretty sure, not the full steel one. But I'll take it!
https://www.redcatracing.com/products/rer13884?variant=32949278703706
https://www.redcatracing.com/products/rer13329?variant=32452795105370

I assume the metal powder spur is at least better than the all plastic one. Anyone know if it's at least better than the all plastic spur? Would the metal powder spur stand up to 6s if I'm a gentle driver? I'm usually a pretty reserved driver, so the spur was my only hesitation to 6s. Now that i have a "steel" spur, I'm feeling more confident to run 6s.

I'll look the truck over once again tomorrow and see if I can see anything different about the drive cups. Turnbuckles seemed the same.
 
Interesting that it came through with a metal spur, albeit "powder metal"..wtf is that anyway? Perhaps a PC term for monkey metal?🤣🤣 Either way, I would run it till failure myself.
I'm pretty sure RC does offer a full monkey metal spur? IDK, I put a Losi metal spur in mine and never looked back..
TBH, I never had an issue with the plastic until I started hitting ramps on 6s. The plastic was perfectly content with 4s for nearly a year of shenanigans.
Enjoy!!
I'll take a look through my emails for the Losi spur if ur interested. I went up a couple teeth from stock due to the fact that with the RC stock setup theres very little we can do to lower the gearing with the supplied 2100kv motor and whatever diff ratio they used. IIRC stock pinion is a 10t? Lowest mod1 pinion I've ever found was a 9. At the time, I didn't have a motor fan and the Kaiju was running hella hot. Like 200f hot..still can't believe the motor didn't give up!! Anywho, if ever you want or need to change the motor out, I definitely recommend going much lower in Kv so you can have more gearing options.
 
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Interesting that it came through with a metal spur, albeit "powder metal"..wtf is that anyway? Perhaps a PC term for monkey metal?🤣🤣 Either way, I would run it till failure myself.
I'm pretty sure RC does offer a full monkey metal spur? IDK, I put a Losi metal spur in mine and never looked back..
TBH, I never had an issue with the plastic until I started hitting ramps on 6s. The plastic was perfectly content with 4s for nearly a year of shenanigans.
Enjoy!!
Yeah i suspected some sort of sintered metal (likely not far off from the typical build of "metal" diff gears in other brands anyway). So yeah, probably monkey metal :LOL: I was planning on running 4s, but after doing a quick shake down in front of my house with a 4s pack, i'm thinking i might like the 6s animal within!
 
Yeah i suspected some sort of sintered metal (likely not far off from the typical build of "metal" diff gears in other brands anyway). So yeah, probably monkey metal :LOL: I was planning on running 4s, but after doing a quick shake down in front of my house with a 4s pack, i'm thinking i might like the 6s animal within!
I know what you mean..sometimes I wish I could go back to not knowing 6s power!!🤣🤣
 
@KnowAir You mentioned that you've run the kaiju on 5s? I've only ever ran identical pairs of lipos (2x 2s for 4s, 2x 3s for 6s, etc), so running an odd number of cells is new to me. I assume you don't have 5s packs, so please enlighten me on how do you match your batteries the right way to run a 2s and 3s! Match mah's? Match total watt-hours? Match C rating? Match capable amp delivery (mah x C rating)? I've got a pair of 120c 8000mah 2s SMC extreme v2's and a pair of 120c 5200mah 3s SMC extreme v2's. That's about as close as I can think to matching a 2s with a 3s pack (aside from mah).
 
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You mentioned that you've run the kaiju on 5s? I've only ever ran identical pairs, so that's new to me. I assume you don't have 5s packs, so how do you match your batteries the right way to run a 2s and 3s? Match mah's? Match watt hours? Match C rating?
Mah and c ratings need to match. Probably a good idea to use batteries of the same brand as well since there's no standardized protocol used amongst the manufacturers to my knowledge.
 
Mah and c ratings need to match. Probably a good idea to use batteries of the same brand as well since there's no standardized protocol used amongst the manufacturers to my knowledge.
So you're saying you'd pair (for example) a 5000mah 2s that's say 100c and a 5000mah 3s that also 100c?

Speaking on principles, this means you'd want your batteries to theoretically deliver current at the same rate, essentially draining equally? If I understand correctly, that means when you have different mah or c rating, then you have one that has a higher tendency to deliver current and drain itself faster. So the esc may not trigger lvc at the proper voltage on the battery pair.
 
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So you're saying you'd pair (for example) a 5000mah 2s that's say 100c and a 5000mah 3s that also 100c?

Speaking on principles, this means you'd want your batteries to theoretically deliver current at the same rate, essentially draining equally? If I understand correctly, that means when you have different mah or c rating, then you have one that has a higher tendency to deliver current and drain itself faster. So the esc may not trigger lvc at the proper voltage on the battery pair.
Yessir. Just as we do when we use 2 3s packs to make 6s..which is a very common practice.
No difference once the cells are connected, as long as they are of the same specs( mah and c rating), they will all discharge at the same rate. Whether it's 1 or 100 cells.
 
Is the only option to shave down drive shaft pins if the ends of the dogbone are sticking out too far to keep the bearing near the "end" of the cup? Or will the bearing still do its job if I wedge it all the way down to where it won't interfere with the pins, but closer to the diff housing? I suspect it's effect would be diminished, just not sure how much.

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This is a new Kaiju, right? I'd try it without the bearings, haven't had any problems with my MT8, you probably don't need them with the latest Kaijus.
 
This is a new Kaiju, right? I'd try it without the bearings, haven't had any problems with my MT8, you probably don't need them with the latest Kaijus.
I agree with Razor, try it first before putting those on. They can be a PIA if you ever needed to remove them.
I put sleeves over my outdrives because the pins where actually falling out of the dogbones. Not an isolated incident either, I got RC to warranty them and the replacements had same problems.
Sidenote..my brother's sledge is experiencing the same issues..I guess even though we don't hit huge jumps and whatnot, running them hard on a track can cause issues?

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This is a new Kaiju, right? I'd try it without the bearings, haven't had any problems with my MT8, you probably don't need them with the latest Kaijus.
Correct, purchased last week, arrived Tuesday. Maybe that checks out with what @RCbuzz was saying that the company told him.

If it's "solved" or at least mitigated and I don't need bearings, i'd prefer that. I'd rather have the full length drive shaft pins to maximize contact with the drive cups.
I agree with Razor, try it first before putting those on. They can be a PIA if you ever needed to remove them.
I put sleeves over my outdrives because the pins where actually falling out of the dogbones. Not an isolated incident either, I got RC to warranty them and the replacements had same problems.
Sidenote..my brother's sledge is experiencing the same issues..I guess even though we don't hit huge jumps and whatnot, running them hard on a track can cause issues?

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Maybe for the sledge you could take some cues from this post about the 8s line!
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/get-the-word-out.49512/
Actually i was thinking about the idea of replacing pins on all my driveshafts as they wear out and using a grub screw to hold the pins in.
 
Maybe for the sledge you could take some cues from this post about the 8s line!
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/get-the-word-out.49512/
Actually i was thinking about the idea of replacing pins on all my driveshafts as they wear out and using a grub screw to hold the pins in.
Damn! That was exactly what my brother and I discussed doing..drilling out, and installing a grub screw! HaHa..
I actually tried something similar with my Team Corally "swiss" spring steel pinion cups..I bought them for my 21 XTR, when they arrived, one of them was never threaded at the factory for the grub screw that holds it onto the pinion shaft. Made a claim for replacement then attempted to tap the threads myself..didn't work out so well. The steel is hard enough to strip the threads off a quality made tap..no bueno 😔
 
Anyone know how to deal with pins that don't stay put in the CV? Wheel was jammed up. Took it off and found out the pin had backed out.

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And looks like got some drive cup rubbing on the rear :cool:

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The pin is captured by a bearing, so if it falls out that means something else is wrong, like a wheel hex or a cracked hub or something like that.
 
The pin is captured by a bearing, so if it falls out that means something else is wrong, like a wheel hex or a cracked hub or something like that.
Not on the kaiju, it uses those plastic sleeves that slide over the cv to capture the pins..part number RER12480..looks like @Hector_Fisher is missing this piece.

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Anyone know how to deal with pins that don't stay put in the CV? Wheel was jammed up. Took it off and found out the pin had backed out.

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And looks like got some drive cup rubbing on the rear :cool:

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If I had to guess, I'd say the suspension is over compressing..but honestly it can over extend on a hard tumble as well. More likely over compression though.. the front shocks actually have a black silicone rubber piece installed above the rod end on the shaft to act as a bump stop. You could install bump stops on the rear as well. Have you tried "laying" the shocks over? Inner most hole up top (shock tower) and outer most at the bottom (arm)..
I believe the root cause is the floppy lower suspension arms myself.
 
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The pin is captured by a bearing, so if it falls out that means something else is wrong, like a wheel hex or a cracked hub or something like that.
That's how the MT410 is, so i expected as much (there have been several design similarities i've seen betwen the two). But there's definitely a designed gap between the axle and the hub. The inner/outer bearings are the same vs most other designs where the inner is larger.
Not on the kaiju, it uses those plastic sleeves that slide over the cv to capture the pins..part number RER12480..looks like @Hector_Fisher is missing this piece.

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You know, I had noticed that when browsing through the "spare parts" section of the redcat page and wondered "what in the world are those for???" Excellent observation! I should have studied the exploded view more closely. I'm just glad there's a solution.

The pin tapped back into the CV with a hammer and held pretty well (some sort of an interference fit), so it made me wonder if Redcat thinks the CV covers are "optional".
 
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