Senton anyone know how to make the senton wider?

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Balls, I got robbed buying the hex extenders from the US, got stung for customs and admin charges so it trippled the cost :mad: now I find I can't even buy 2.8 trenchers on m11 17 hex on this mud island lol! Great.
That sucks bro, where do you live? PS they don't sell Trenchers 2.8 premounted on 2.8 F11s 17 hex, bought separately to tape and glue myself.
 
That sucks bro, where do you live? PS they don't sell Trenchers 2.8 premounted on 2.8 F11s 17 hex, bought separately to tape and glue myself.
im in the UK and yes ive figured out that you cant get pre mounts. i still cant get the wheels alone in the UK yet so that would mean another US order. After getting stung by cutoms on my last 3 upgrades from the US I think i'll wait for a UK model shop to stock them :(
 
I would wait too
im in the UK and yes ive figured out that you cant get pre mounts. i still cant get the wheels alone in the UK yet so that would mean another US order. After getting stung by cutoms on my last 3 upgrades from the US I think i'll wait for a UK model shop to stock them :(
Man I don't blame you. What a hassle and ridiculous expense. I'd go with something local that's remotely comparable. You would think in modern times international shipping would be somewhat reasonable, frickin customs, what a PITA.
 
So all i need to widen my senton a bit is these two parts?
http://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310591
http://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310484

I'm just getting into the hobby so I do not know too much yet. Thanks for your help!
You also need Kraton hex's and hubs/steering blocks.
IMG_20170128_061414093.jpg
 
That sucks bro, where do you live? PS they don't sell Trenchers 2.8 premounted on 2.8 F11s 17 hex, bought separately to tape and glue myself.
So I now have the associated hex extenders and F11 17mm wheels woohoo, however I now cant get hold of the trenchers here lol! Do you know if the new badland MX28's will be a direct replacement size wise? I can get hold of those.. and man they look pretty sexy too! Also do you tape as well as glue? does that not stiffen the tyre up a little too much meaning loss of traction perhaps?
 
So I now have the associated hex extenders and F11 17mm wheels woohoo, however I now cant get hold of the trenchers here lol! Do you know if the new badland MX28's will be a direct replacement size wise? I can get hold of those.. and man they look pretty sexy too! Also do you tape as well as glue? does that not stiffen the tyre up a little too much meaning loss of traction perhaps?
If you bought 2.8 F11s, the mx28 should work no problem, they have Traxxas bead to fit fine. I highly recommend taping or ballooning will likely restrict you to 4s. You should still get great traction taped or not, and tires won't be stiff from taping. If you ever get 3.8 tire, just match with 3.8 rim, either F11s or Desperados will work fine.
 
Just truggified my Typhon which shares parts with Senton I think, adds about 1inch wider front/back, allows for MT tires, used Kraton axels, hex's, and hubs/steering blocks.
U made an outcast before they came out lol! Dig ur YouTube channel as well bro

Also wanting to try a bigger wheel/tire combo on mine. Going to see how these work: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001416392&I=LXVKH7&P=K
How'd they work for u?

That sucks bro, where do you live? PS they don't sell Trenchers 2.8 premounted on 2.8 F11s 17 hex, bought separately to tape and glue myself.
Didn't know they made 2.8 f11 in 17m?

Just truggified my Typhon which shares parts with Senton I think, adds about 1inch wider front/back, allows for MT tires, used Kraton axels, hex's, and hubs/steering blocks.
U didn't need longer A-arms?

So what do those do exactly? I was under the impression that a 2.8 wheel wouldn't fit because it wouldn't clear the hub carriers? Also, about all of the wheels that I have found in that size had 12mm hexes. Do the 2.8 proline wheels come in 17mm?
I've never seen 2.8's in 17m either.. I'll be grabbing some

So what do those do exactly? I was under the impression that a 2.8 wheel wouldn't fit because it wouldn't clear the hub carriers? Also, about all of the wheels that I have found in that size had 12mm hexes. Do the 2.8 proline wheels come in 17mm?
I can't think of another RC that would run a 2.8 (MT especially) in 17m

You also need Kraton hex's and hubs/steering blocks. View attachment 5970
Hey Rich! Can u do a parts list for me please? Everything I'll need to make wider and be able to fit 2.8's
 
U made an outcast before they came out lol! Dig ur YouTube channel as well bro


How'd they work for u?


Didn't know they made 2.8 f11 in 17m?


U didn't need longer A-arms?


I've never seen 2.8's in 17m either.. I'll be grabbing some


I can't think of another RC that would run a 2.8 (MT especially) in 17m


Hey Rich! Can u do a parts list for me please? Everything I'll need to make wider and be able to fit 2.8's
Thanks bro, much appreciated. I'll shoot you parts list if needed in a bit, at work now.
 
U made an outcast before they came out lol! Dig ur YouTube channel as well bro


How'd they work for u?


Didn't know they made 2.8 f11 in 17m?


U didn't need longer A-arms?


I've never seen 2.8's in 17m either.. I'll be grabbing some


I can't think of another RC that would run a 2.8 (MT especially) in 17m


Hey Rich! Can u do a parts list for me please? Everything I'll need to make wider and be able to fit 2.8's
There's 2 ways to widen the Typhon or Senton. The cheaper way is to use Team Associated hex adapters RC8T #89330. The catch here is that the pins they send don't fit the axel holes. Was told that you can use the Arrma pins and put something removable on them like paper glue to hold them in place. The way I did it was buying Kraton V2 hubs, axels, and hex's and swapped them out with my Typhon stuff. Parts numbers are in pic above, minus the axels. Only adds about an inch of width, but enough to run bigger wheels with. Building an Outcast means Kraton entire front/rear, dogbones, towers, shocks, arms, turnbuckles.
 
IMG_0600.JPG IMG_0599.JPG
There's 2 ways to widen the Typhon or Senton. The cheaper way is to use Team Associated hex adapters RC8T #89330. The catch here is that the pins they send don't fit the axel holes. Was told that you can use the Arrma pins and put something removable on them like paper glue to hold them in place. The way I did it was buying Kraton V2 hubs, axels, and hex's and swapped them out with my Typhon stuff. Parts numbers are in pic above, minus the axels. Only adds about an inch of width, but enough to run bigger wheels with. Building an Outcast means Kraton entire front/rear, dogbones, towers, shocks, arms, turnbuckles.
Well I can confirm that the TA hex adapters are all you need to widen the typhon and fit big fat wheels! Rich, after smacking the living crap out of the stock hex pins I decided to take a look in the hole and discovered a grub screw lol, what a twonk :oops: thankfully no damage done and after unscrewing the pins they fell right out.
 
That's good new
View attachment 8762 View attachment 8761
Well I can confirm that the TA hex adapters are all you need to widen the typhon and fit big fat wheels! Rich, after smacking the living crap out of the stock hex pins I decided to take a look in the hole and discovered a grub screw lol, what a twonk :oops: thankfully no damage done and after unscrewing the pins they fell right out.
That's great news about the adapters. Definitely much cheaper and easier option then swapping for Kraton parts. Did you need glue to secure the stock pins or were you able to secure them via the axel grub screws? I was told the Team Associated pins were too big to fit the Arrma axels.

That's good new
View attachment 8762 View attachment 8761
Well I can confirm that the TA hex adapters are all you need to widen the typhon and fit big fat wheels! Rich, after smacking the living crap out of the stock hex pins I decided to take a look in the hole and discovered a grub screw lol, what a twonk :oops: thankfully no damage done and after unscrewing the pins they fell right out.
That's great news about the adapters. Definitely much cheaper and easier option then swapping for Kraton parts. Did you need glue to secure the stock pins or were you able to secure them via the axel grub screws? I was told the Team Associated pins were too big to fit the Arrma axels.
 
That's good new

That's great news about the adapters. Definitely much cheaper and easier option then swapping for Kraton parts. Did you need glue to secure the stock pins or were you able to secure them via the axel grub screws? I was told the Team Associated pins were too big to fit the Arrma axels.

That's good new

That's great news about the adapters. Definitely much cheaper and easier option then swapping for Kraton parts. Did you need glue to secure the stock pins or were you able to secure them via the axel grub screws? I was told the Team Associated pins were too big to fit the Arrma axels.
Hi bud, no I didn't use glue as the collar provided as well as the grub screw is sufficient to hold the pins in imo. There is a little bit of play if you pull the wheels but that's it, I'm confident it's solid enough.
 
I just came across this topic because I was busy googling and reading up on how to widen the Arrma Senton. I have a Senton and recently bought some very sticky onroad tires for the car to do some asphalt runs. I noticed the Senton will tip over very quickly because of the smaller stance than a Kraton or Outcast in comparison. I was also thinking about widen the stance of the Senton because of this. I understand I can just buy the RC8T #89330 parts, but I don't like the little play that Trillium is writing about. Maybe it is better to go all out and buy all the Kraton parts to widen the Senton the best way? Or is the play not bad at all Trillium??

Am I correct that you need all these parts to widen the Senton:
The part that is missing in my opinion is AR310590 which are the CVD axles for the front, or is it not necessary to replace them?

Thank you!
 
Hi Bud, no the play isnt bad at all in my case, there seems to be play all over the place with these cars and after hours of bashing no damage has been caused to any of these parts. I have read that some have simply shimmed the hex's to reduce any play even more but its still way easier (and cheaper) than changing all the above. You can just drill the hex hole out to accomodate the larger pin as well, i run my stock and road wheels on this hex as well so don't really ever need to change the hex's back, so thats also an option?
 
Hi Bud, no the play isnt bad at all in my case, there seems to be play all over the place with these cars and after hours of bashing no damage has been caused to any of these parts. I have read that some have simply shimmed the hex's to reduce any play even more but its still way easier (and cheaper) than changing all the above. You can just drill the hex hole out to accomodate the larger pin as well, i run my stock and road wheels on this hex as well so don't really ever need to change the hex's back, so thats also an option?

Oké thanks for the update. Than I think I will give it a try! The Senton is a absolute blast to drive. So fast for a 1:10th scale car. But sometimes a little bit uncontrollable because of the narrow width. I hope these will solve that problem! Shimming the hexes is also a good idea. I do this also with my 5th scale cars when there is play between the bearings and wheel hexes.
 
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