Typhon Anyone running TP 4050cm 3200kv on 6s?

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What's the speed goal you have in mind?
Also out of curiosity why this 4050 over the 4060 or 4070?

As for gearing I'd start small like 18/46 and work your way up looking at data logs of motor rpm to help you make the next choice in gear size.

I may have missed it, but what tires do you plan to run?

-Liberty

thinking about gearing now and I kind of like the 46t spur suggestion. why 46t and which manufacturer is compatible? I did a few calculations; I want a capable head turning parking lot machine that is driveable, and not just in a straight line.

what about diff fluid weights; again I want driveable, and not just in a straight line?

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thanx,

justin
 
thinking about gearing now and I kind of like the 46t spur suggestion. why 46t and which manufacturer is compatible? I did a few calculations; I want a capable head turning parking lot machine that is driveable, and not just in a straight line.

what about diff fluid weights; again I want driveable, and not just in a straight line?

thanx,

justin

I cannot find it anymore, but someone mentioned an HPI spur gear fitting the Arrma center differentials. That is 2nd hand information that I have not tried or confirmed. The other thing to consider for an on-road car is eliminating the center diff. I cannot think of any solid performing on-road cars with center diffs. If you go with a spool build you can then get any spur size (in the form of pinion gears).

It is worth noting that these calculators accuracy drops significantly once you get over 60mph. Up around 100mph the error is 10-25% depending on the aerodynamics of the body and efficiency/torque of the gearing choice. Still a great tool to use when looking at gears. That calculator shows 62.35 mph for my Kraton and I hit 61.7 mph (pretty darn close)

Fluids tend to be a personal choice. For my on-road toys I like locked diffs or something very close to it with 1 million weight fluid so it will slide nicely coming out of turns on power.

-Liberty
 
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I ordered an Integy 46T Spur Gear for HPI 1/8 Apache SC & C1 Flux Desert Buggy C25284 along with 6mm to 5mm reducer sleeve for the outdrive. Also, an RR 22t pinion.

If I lose 10-25% speed I am okay with that at 100mph ?

Finished up the 2nd battery cushion and batteries came in :geek:
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Looking good so far! I have a batch of parts that I am about to de-anodize also for a 1/10 on-road build.
Is the method used in the pictures just lye and water? What ratios and time have you found works best?

-Liberty
 
I have done this quite a few time now. I usually just guesstimate the amount of caustic soda (100% lye) to the amount of water. I would say I use a cup per gallon of water. It usually only takes 5 minutes or so with moving the parts around in the solution to complete.

Check out this video; I must have watched it a couple dozen times prior to my first attempt:
 
Little over 2 hours of polishing this batch ?

Left polished, right not polished to compare
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Instead of the integy spur I decided to go with the hr SAPC446 Heavy Duty Steel Spur Gear 46t. The 6mm-5mm reducers I found fit perfectly :geek:
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VERY nice. Does the Max 5 work OK with the TP 4070 ?? My Max6 is cutting power half way through a run. I just got a Mamba Monster X to try next.
 
The hw Max5 has been great. In the Kraton with the 4070cm 2200kv i do get a thermal on the max5 esc at the end of a full out park-lot speed running of 20min solid in 80-100F summer heat.
 
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which diff fluid weights I should run?
 
I'm running "Core RC 100K pure silicone oil" in my front and rear diffs (no centre diff as have a centre spool) on my speed runner. Seems to work for me running on asphalt/tarmac. (y)
That is what I was thinking 100/500/100k front/center/rear. I don’t want fully locked in the center and 500k may be good.
 
That is what I was thinking 100/500/100k front/center/rear. I don’t want fully locked in the center and 500k may be good.
Yep sounds good. (y)
You'll be surprised how thick 500K is if you haven't seen it before and definitely works well for partially locking up a diff, allowing for some movement still.
 
Sodium Hydroxide also neutralizes (?) with heat/ dry oven or hot water. I have some straight stuff ,powdered lye maybe 12 oz weight ...and according to somewhere I read, the lye “reacts with carbon dioxide in the oven to form a harmless, edible carbonate.” I've used for pretzels and why I bought the stuff. Maillard.
So, fear not de-anodizing. I have those knuckles / steering blocks for my Kraton and may should try.
If you get some on you, pour boiling water over and no more burn. rofl
 
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