Kraton ARA220050 diff case installed

[NastyNate]

Installation just happened. Feels like butter!

Additional shims in the kit tightened it up so sweet..

I really like factory upgrades... a company really must be confident when they create a product aftermarket for their customers... this is like buying a factory supercharger for lack of a better example.

Shim on bearing I don't think is required.? Thoughts on that would be appreciated..It's super tight without it!

I will be buying two more soon...??

 

[olds97_lss]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/issue-with-the-arrma-alloy-diff-cup-seems-too-long.14517

The first one I installed into an old diff case with 1 shim. Fried the ring/pinion within one pack. Thought maybe the case was cracked, but it's not. Replaced it with a new case and have what feels like way too much gear lash and cannot fit any shims in it. I put one on the pinion and the pinion... see that thread.

Let me know how your center one installs... I may get to mine tonight. Seems like it may be too long with the hot racing motor mount, x-brace and top plate. Will find out when I try bolting it down to the new M2C chassis I just got today.

 

[Notorious J]

Installation just happened. Feels like butter!

Additional shims in the kit tightened it up so sweet..

I really like factory upgrades... a company really must be confident when they create a product aftermarket for their customers... this is like buying a factory supercharger for lack of a better example.

Shim on bearing I don't think is required.? Thoughts on that would be appreciated..It's super tight without it!

I will be buying two more soon...??

Couldn't squeeze a bearing on that side if I tried. As @olds97_lss mentioned, keep an eye on the screws that hold the ring gear on. When I serviced my dif yesterday, I noticed they had backed out a bit too. Loctite used from day one, but didn't help

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, I used red on mine... kind of regretting it now as I want to... awe... it's in my thread. lol!

 

[NastyNate]

Two packs through and started clicking - popping. Tore it all apart and found this.... hmmmm...

 

[Evil-T]

That’s not good!

Is there an upgrade option out there?

 

[Notorious J]

Two packs through and started clicking - popping. Tore it all apart and found this.... hmmmm...

I've had similar problems lately, but not as bad with the aluminum cup. Crazy thing is how much those ring gears cost. The only way to keep going is buying complete units from Jennys Rc, taking them apart and using the gears on the new cup. Can't find a way to buy the parts any cheaper than that, and I know that I'll need them on a regular basis now. Does anyone know of a hardened steel option for the outer ring gear and pinion? The metal from Arrma stock is too soft and teeth just keep getting chipped now. I know, I know, don't land on throttle. But even when I bash without any real high flying antics, it still seems like that gear is getting beat up. The center spur gear is still original in my truck from November 2018, and the front ring gear is also still original. Only having trouble with the rear.

 

[NastyNate]

Replaced it all today. I know everyone says don't shim the input gear.

With this setup, I cant push the pinion into the input with the factory shim.

I really want to try pushing the input gear towards the pinion.

Hobby shop was out of shims, so I haven't been able to begin this.

Anyone else done this?

 

[olds97_lss]

Replaced it all today. I know everyone says don't shim the input gear.

With this setup, I cant push the pinion into the input with the factory shim.

I really want to try pushing the input gear towards the pinion.

Hobby shop was out of shims, so I haven't been able to begin this.

Anyone else done this?

With the new arrma alloy cup, I can't put any shims anywhere but on the pinion. I updated my thread with the info, but after measuring a take off diff from jennysrc, then taking it apart and moving the ring gear/bearings to the alloy cup, it's almost 1mm wider from bearing to bearing. I literally had to force the bearings into the channels and them squeeze down on the bearings from the front of the bulk with pliers to get them to fully seat. There is absolutely no way I can put a shim on the ring gear side.

 

[Notorious J]

I think @olds97_lss ran into the same problem I found today with regards to the Arrma aluminum dif cup. I went about replacing a cracked gear box, and when I pulled out the aluminum cup, all the screws had backed out slightly. This of course caused a couple of teeth on the large outer gear to get chipped. When I finally got it ready to button up, I poured blue loctite in each hole, and cranked on the screws (two are stripped for sure, but that's another story). I've never had this problem with the HR cups, and if I notice that they're coming loose again, bye bye Arrma cup. The screws are too short since you have to screw a top and bottom piece onto the cup. One more chance Arrma.

 

[olds97_lss]

I think @olds97_lss ran into the same problem I found today with regards to the Arrma aluminum dif cup. I went about replacing a cracked gear box, and when I pulled out the aluminum cup, all the screws had backed out slightly. This of course caused a couple of teeth on the large outer gear to get chipped. When I finally got it ready to button up, I poured blue loctite in each hole, and cranked on the screws (two are stripped for sure, but that's another story). I've never had this problem with the HR cups, and if I notice that they're coming loose again, bye bye Arrma cup. The screws are too short since you have to screw a top and bottom piece onto the cup. One more chance Arrma.

I used red this time. Blue gel loctite didn't hold. I haven't had it apart since my last bash, but both the rear and center have red loctite on them. The center has both gaskets and the rear has one gasket with rtv on the cap end. I want to take it apart and make sure it's still ok... really... I want to work on the diffs some more... really...