Outcast ARRMA 4x4 3S/4S Driveshaft Upgrades

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KiTris ExtremeRC

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Arrma RC's
  1. Felony
  2. Fireteam
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Outcast 4s
  6. Vorteks
Seems like Arrma is releasing some upgrades for the BLX line-up.

Found some upgraded driveshafts and CNC diff-gears on towerhobbies:

3S Driveshafts: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRS&P=ML

4S Driveshafts: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=ARAC3954

CNC Metal Crown Gear: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXHAWL&P=7

CNC Metal Input Gear: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXHAWM&P=7


Hopefully these driveshafts will hold up much better!

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Those driveshafts have been on the books for a few months... Many of us waiting for them :).

Ah ok, never saw them before :D
Hopefully they will release them soon. My driveshafts are always popping out.
 
Ah ok, never saw them before :D
Hopefully they will release them soon. My driveshafts are always popping out.

So are mine and once they pop it just keeps happening quicker every time I put it back together. Bought 2 extra sets of front arms and 2 sets of rears when I bought my Kraton since everyone said the arms were weak. Haven’t broken a damn one but these driveshafts are my only problem. I seriously hope they come out soon.
 
So are mine and once they pop it just keeps happening quicker every time I put it back together. Bought 2 extra sets of front arms and 2 sets of rears when I bought my Kraton since everyone said the arms were weak. Haven’t broken a damn one but these driveshafts are my only problem. I seriously hope they come out soon.
Arrma's plastic is very inconsistent in quality, some people blow through a arms like an alcoholic through a bottle of vodka and some people don't have any issues. Look at the videos @Aussie RC Playground posted for his 4s Kraton, the first video he had a landing that was a little bit rear biased and the rear a arm snapped off, he put a new arm on and in his second video he beats the snot out of it.
On the 6s models some guys have problems with the battery tray screws coming out and blow through battery trays. My battery tray is almost 2 years old and no problems.
 
Yep... kind of patiently waiting for those axles to come out for my Senton.

I'm about to order some aluminum or carbon fiber tube to try to make a sleeve to go over the ends of the axles. It probably doesn't help that I have my slipper tightened down, punch turned all the way up on 4s, and I'm not gentle on the throttle. I like to party.
 
My driveshafts are always popping out.
Your slipper clutch is too tight. I went through a 2 axles in 1 run and I readjusted my slipper and haven't broke an axle in the last 5 packs. It still wheelies, but not as violent as before. The slipper clutch adjustment isn't just backing off the screw, you should test your adjustment until you have the slightest slip. One old school way of testing your slipper is applying pressure to your rear tires with your feet and applying the throttle. The front tires should come off the ground 2-4 inches before the clutch starts to slip. That's the sweet spot for adjustment.
 
Your slipper clutch is too tight. I went through a 2 axles in 1 run and I readjusted my slipper and haven't broke an axle in the last 5 packs. It still wheelies, but not as violent as before. The slipper clutch adjustment isn't just backing off the screw, you should test your adjustment until you have the slightest slip. One old school way of testing your slipper is applying pressure to your rear tires with your feet and applying the throttle. The front tires should come off the ground 2-4 inches before the clutch starts to slip. That's the sweet spot for adjustment.

So mine might be to tight then. The driveshafts were okay on 3s but once I got a 4s pack it was game over. Didn’t even up my punch setting. So maybe I should try adjusting the slipper. Wish I knew how haha there’s no how to videos for the 4s on YouTube. I’m still new to all this so I’m not even sure what it should look/sound like when it’s meshed right.
 
So mine might be to tight then. The driveshafts were okay on 3s but once I got a 4s pack it was game over. Didn’t even up my punch setting. So maybe I should try adjusting the slipper. Wish I knew how haha there’s no how to videos for the 4s on YouTube. I’m still new to all this so I’m not even sure what it should look/sound like when it’s meshed right.
This guy does a decent job trying to explain how to adjust your slipper clutch on the BRCC, which is the same process for the typhon 3s and kraton/outcast 4s. Also, it's really easy to overtighten the slipper clutch because it doesn't feel like the screw is very tight. Start with your clutch loose then start tightening it. It will be easier to make small adjustments from a loose clutch instead of guessing from an already over tighten clutch. Skip to the 9:45 mark.

 
This guy does a decent job trying to explain how to adjust your slipper clutch on the BRCC, which is the same process for the typhon 3s and kraton/outcast 4s. Also, it's really easy to overtighten the slipper clutch because it doesn't feel like the screw is very tight. Start with your clutch loose then start tightening it. It will be easier to make small adjustments from a loose clutch instead of guessing from an already over tighten clutch. Skip to the 9:45 mark.



Awesome! Thanks a lot!
 
1 to 1.5 turns out on the slipper, you will eventually lose a driveshaft... especially on grass or mud. 2 turns out and you'll be much safer without much loss of punch... will still wheelie on punch 2 on 2S.
 
Your slipper clutch is too tight. I went through a 2 axles in 1 run and I readjusted my slipper and haven't broke an axle in the last 5 packs. It still wheelies, but not as violent as before. The slipper clutch adjustment isn't just backing off the screw, you should test your adjustment until you have the slightest slip. One old school way of testing your slipper is applying pressure to your rear tires with your feet and applying the throttle. The front tires should come off the ground 2-4 inches before the clutch starts to slip. That's the sweet spot for adjustment.

x 1,000,000

If y'all would set your slippers correctly, you wouldn't need to buy $100 driveshafts. Heck, my Kraton 4S came with the slipper set perfectly from the factory, so some of your wounds are self-inflicted.
 
Has anyone broke a driveshaft on the 3s Typhon mine still look brand new after 7 months.
 
Your slipper clutch is too tight. I went through a 2 axles in 1 run and I readjusted my slipper and haven't broke an axle in the last 5 packs. It still wheelies, but not as violent as before. The slipper clutch adjustment isn't just backing off the screw, you should test your adjustment until you have the slightest slip. One old school way of testing your slipper is applying pressure to your rear tires with your feet and applying the throttle. The front tires should come off the ground 2-4 inches before the clutch starts to slip. That's the sweet spot for adjustment.
Thanks for the feedback!
But I think my slipper is more or less set correctly. It's just tight enough to do standing backflips. When the truck was new I never had problems with popping them out. I guess after time they get worn down and then they pop out more frequently. It also never happened because of a standing backflip or anything like that. Just under normal driving.
I have a fix in mind which could be the solution. If it works I'll let you know.
 
x 1,000,000

If y'all would set your slippers correctly, you wouldn't need to buy $100 driveshafts. Heck, my Kraton 4S came with the slipper set perfectly from the factory, so some of your wounds are self-inflicted.

At the risk of sounding like an idiot..I’m sure almost everything I’m doing is self inflicted haha, still pretty new to the hobby so im still trying to soak up as much info as I can. Is it really as simple as pulling off the center drive shaft, sticking your Allen into the slipper housing there and tightening it up, or loosening in my case. I guess I would tighten it all the way then back off so I know where I’m at but that’s literally it? Lol sorry if I’m asking dumb questions
 
At the risk of sounding like an idiot..I’m sure almost everything I’m doing is self inflicted haha, still pretty new to the hobby so im still trying to soak up as much info as I can. Is it really as simple as pulling off the center drive shaft, sticking your Allen into the slipper housing there and tightening it up, or loosening in my case. I guess I would tighten it all the way then back off so I know where I’m at but that’s literally it? Lol sorry if I’m asking dumb questions
It's that simple. Getting it just right takes multiple adjustments and that means you'll have to adjust with allen wrench put shaft back together and test. Repeat until you have a slight slip on full throttle.
 
Your slipper clutch is too tight. I went through a 2 axles in 1 run and I readjusted my slipper and haven't broke an axle in the last 5 packs. It still wheelies, but not as violent as before. The slipper clutch adjustment isn't just backing off the screw, you should test your adjustment until you have the slightest slip. One old school way of testing your slipper is applying pressure to your rear tires with your feet and applying the throttle. The front tires should come off the ground 2-4 inches before the clutch starts to slip. That's the sweet spot for adjustment.

Just watched a few guys doing that hold the tires method for finding the sweet spot on the slipper. Seems easy enough. They looked like 2wd cars tho. Does this method apply to these arrma 4x4 trucks too
 
Just watched a few guys doing that hold the tires method for finding the sweet spot on the slipper. Seems easy enough. They looked like 2wd cars tho. Does this method apply to these arrma 4x4 trucks too
It does apply to 4x4 RC's. Before center diffs became common place us old heads with savages, emaxx, and lst were using this method to tune these 4x4 slipper clutch trucks.
 
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