Arrma 6s series chassis protectors do they work?

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DoNoHarm

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
Do the chassis protectors actually work? I do a lot of bashing on concrete and one drawback of the chassis that I found out pretty quick was how quickly they wear down on the back. I've been just using jb weld as a skid plate for awhile now but I have to reapply every 6-7 runs and it's getting old. Was on eBay and saw these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Typh...272610905422?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Does anyone use them and do they work?
 
I saw those a few times but I didn’t think they’d solve the problem.. I should explain myself

I don’t really care what the underside of my truck looks like, it’s scratched to hell and back. I’m just worried because if it keeps getting scraped down and down, the rear two screws heads will get so shaved that I’d no longer be able to get them out. If I buy that skid plate it’s made of plastic which won’t take long to wear down at all, and the same problem.. the screws will wear down to the point where I can’t get them out, just now, even quicker. Or am I wrong? I hope I am... I don't want to have to fabricate a steel one myself..
 
No, you aren’t wrong at all. I like it because it protects the pumpkin on the bottom from being dented and worn through...BUT they do make stainless ones. I can’t remember who makes them but someone will post it eventually...
 
No, you aren’t wrong at all. I like it because it protects the pumpkin on the bottom from being dented and worn through...BUT they do make stainless ones. I can’t remember who makes them but someone will post it eventually...
Ah okay. Darn. Yeah I don’t really care about the pumpkin... mines level with the chassis and the gear still isn’t poking through. Hotracing are the guys who make the steel one... but for $33... no thanks.
 
No, you aren’t wrong at all. I like it because it protects the pumpkin on the bottom from being dented and worn through...BUT they do make stainless ones. I can’t remember who makes them but someone will post it eventually...
Voltage Hobbies makes some as well https://www.voltagehobbies.com/store/p6/Voltage_Hobbies_Skid_Plate_Set_for_ARRMA_Kraton,_Talion,_Typhon,_Senton,_Outcast.html#/ but they do wear down pretty quick.

There is also this rear skid https://www.pos-modellbau.de/shop/alu-tuning/arrma/

I see those skins pop up all the time on the Facebook groups, they seem to do okay, however I do think they would prevent the rear screws from getting messed up.
 
I have the hr stainless steel skids they work pretty good but i usually use pipe wrap tape you can get it at home depot for like 5 bucks and it's a good size roll leaves no residue and easy to apply it's 20mil thickness i believe I'll try to find a link
 
32606

This is what it looks like applied
 
Nice, I was wondering where you got red ones lol.
I usually buy some of these from Hobbyking when I order stuff they are fairly cheap but out of stock at the moment https://hobbyking.com/en_us/shock-duct-cover.html?wrh_pdp=2
Those look pretty durable all those China rc sites that sell tires and decent stuff for cheap are always out of stock i ordered shims from that site once but the shipping is outrageous it was like 3 bucks for the shims and 12$ for shipping
 
I have the rpm front bumper/skid and t-bone rear bumper skid, but the plastic doesn't hold up to skate parks and will grind down really fast as it drags on the face of jumps. I've made little steel wear bars on the front and rear to combat the problem or I'd burn through a skid in a single bash session. The concrete at my local skate park is rough stuff.

2018-0915-Outcast-ChassisSkidProtectors-2onFront.jpg


Aluminum doesn't hold up well either.

I have the same on all 3 of my revos as when the rear skid grinds down on those, the hinge pins fall out, then arms get broken because the pins on the bottom aren't one long pin, it's one short pin for the front side of the arm and another short for the rear side. So when the rears fall out, it wrenches/twists the front and rips it out. With RPM true track on the rear of those, I don't want to risk that. Not sure I can buy the arms separate, but the kit is $40 for both sides of arms and axle carriers.
 
I run a 3m skin on mine just to protect that nice m2c racing it from getting all scratched up. It does the trick. When it gets worn I will just put in other one on. Problem is you have to take everything of to get the holes done if its not a pre drilled one.
 
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