Big Rock Arrma cvd or hot racing cvd

[Caleb90]

Popped a front drive shaft today, i adjusted the slipper when i first got the truck and the end points for turning. But after about 20packs one gave up. Should i run the arrma cvd or the hot racing. Arrma is cheaper but is still plastic. Lmk

 

[parcou]

Popped a front drive shaft today, i adjusted the slipper when i first got the truck and the end points for turning. But after about 20packs one gave up. Should i run the arrma cvd or the hot racing. Arrma is cheaper but is still plastic. Lmk

Hmm...

I have the Amma CVD there was a reason why I did at the time, belted tires but since I sold those to take that unneeded stress off the driveshaft I do not really need CVDs.

If you got 20 packs and popped a front-drive shaft....handclap. Go to Jenny's RC and buy the same thing. No need to upgrade stuff breaks, but you have done well with stock. Stay there and save that money.

For $28 you have 3 spares!
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...afts-front-rear-axles-granite-senton-ar102711

 

[Caleb90]

I don't bash like you guys do, last time i had it apart it loooked like the u joint yokes were getting thin from rubbing on each other from turning
Also, after looking at that link i see that the front and rear driveshafts are two different part numbers. As stated up above when i had it apart last i noticed wear on the front shafts. So i swaped the rear to the front and front to the rear. I didnt notice a difference. But maybe this is why it broke?

 

[419RC]

one has a longer section. I don’t recall which. I don’t think this would cause the joint to break anymore unless the lesser contact using a shorter shaft caused a velocity spike due to twisting and when it releases causes an abrupt acceleration.

 

[slick2500]

If you have a V3 Big Rock Crew Cab both options are too short they are made for the models with short a arms.

 

[Caleb90]

Mine is a v3

 

[parcou]

I don't bash like you guys do, last time i had it apart it loooked like the u joint yokes were getting thin from rubbing on each other from turning
Also, after looking at that link i see that the front and rear driveshafts are two different part numbers. As stated up above when i had it apart last i noticed wear on the front shafts. So i swaped the rear to the front and front to the rear. I didnt notice a difference. But maybe this is why it broke?

Correct they are different so you would not want to sway them. If so, this would lead to a death. Since you are a low basher get the set first before upgrading. Need a new set anyway and this is the cheaper way.

Can you post a pic or have a pic PRIOR to show what was rubbing. Showing afterward does not matter if the parts were in the wrong place. I'd like to know where it was rubbing before you swapped them.

 

[Caleb90]

So after looking at it, i swapped the female part of the shafts from front to back. Not the entire shaft

 

[Velodromed]

If you keep having issues…on the two cars I drive most (both with typhon/big rock arms) I switched to Arrma cvds on back and stuck with stock drive shafts up front. I make sure to run front designated stock shafts of course.

The only issue I have with the CVDs are when I put on hot racing +10, 17mm extensions and one of the axles broke. I broke another axle with out an extension by over tightening the barrel nut and jumping the car a lot. So now I stick with M2C 17mm extensions, do not over tighten the barrel nuts and use copious amounts of locktite instead. Seems to be working well so far.

Main thing is I’ve found that the Arrma cvds have worked well with the longer big rock/typhon arms on the rear. I wouldn’t put them up front though as they tend to separate. I do run a thicker oil up front (25-30) and I think this helps preserve the stock drive shafts since I rarely pop one of those between all four, 3s cars.