Arrma Granite 4x4 6S BLX *V2*

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Megasty

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Fazon, Granite, Kraton, Nero, Outcast, Raider, Senton, Talion, Typhon, 4x4-Mega
Early this year I put this together. It was a Granite 4x4 Mega with MEGA 6s power that it had no way of using. Plastic diffs & driveshafts made this creature feel like I dropped a LS2 in a Civic.
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That toy is gone. It decided to ditch its plastic guts & evolve into an all-powerful Arrma RC . . . but it wasn't easy at all. This car was made to take out the box & go straight to running, however slow that run was. It was quickly upgraded to a 1/10 brushless system where it busted rear input gears left & right. I fixed that with a mod & never looked back. 3s was fast & fun but I always thought it could do more. The chassis was thick, strong, & reinforced at all the right areas. The diffs & driveshafts, although plastic, were huge so I wanted to see just how much power it could take. Answer: A TON.


The crackling chattering diffs died in this video. 6s was way too much power. It couldn't even get much of it to the ground. So I dropped a lower kv 4s system in it & it spent the majority of its life like that, until I got bored with it. The car wanted power & I wanted to give it that gift. If this car wanted to run 6s w/o blowing parts then all the parts doing the blowing would have to be beefed up, & what's more beefier than an Arrma 6s drivetrain. Dropping the drivetrain in this car was no cakewalk. This is the most modding I ever done on any car.

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For something born of a monster mash, it looks awfully well assembled if I do say so myself.

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The front CVD rods came from a Redcat Earthquake while the axle hubs & hexes were from a Redcat Shredder.

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Bolting in the Arrma center diff was fairly easy. I just had to cut away a bit of the center honeycomb.
 
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Megasty

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The rear CVDs were a major pain. I couldn't use the Redcat stuff. I tried & only ended up with bent dogbones. The junk couldn't handle the power the rear diff was pushing out. So I went with MIP. It's not bulletproof but it's very close. So I had to mod the diffs to accept the MIPs & use a Traxxas *shudders*:eek: rear hub since I couldn't get it to fit the Arrma part for anything & have it actually hold up. 6s can destroy anything. But the things I tried even failed on 4s. So I went on & used what the MIPs were designed for. When the hub breaks, I'll just replace it with aluminum - just like Traxxas *shudders*:eek:

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I had to relocate the ESC & receiver box. I used an aluminum plate for this & it also doubles as a chassis brace. There's no flex between the rear bulkhead & center diff. But there is a fair amount of flex between the front bulkhead & center diff. I'll have to get around to making some kind of brace for that as well.

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I had to raise the servo the clear the dogbone. There's still absolutely no give in this mount.

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This type of truggy layout is too versatile for words. I've seen many cars use this type of drivetrain in various degrees of center diff offset. This offset is more on the extreme side but it's nothing this drivetrain can't handle. I'll go over the diffs later. I had to further modify them to fit the Arrma dogbones using Arrma drive cups.

BTW, I have taken this car for a light run after everything was done. It was pretty dark out & it was only on 4s. But it was ballistic on 4s to say the least. The sound of the metal drivetrain in this car is divine.

 
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Megasty

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Well I said I would do something when something broke & murphy came through again.

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This is the output drive broken & stuck in the MIP driveshaft. This happened on 4s when I started to give the truck a good thrashing. It was a bit too much fun so I let loose. I gave it a full punch from a standing start & the truck went nuts. It flipped a few times & landed upside down with the driveshaft hanging from the hub. These shafts are seriously heavy and I made sure the internal diff gears would hold up by heat treating them @ 1500, 2000, 2500, & 3000 degrees: double my usual process. The pin could of snapped but the pin I used is spring steel so it's by far the strongest component in the system. So if the gears & pin won't give, that leaves the output. It was cut from an unknown part that fit the task. So it died.

So what should I replace it with. I had the MIPs with the traxxas hub carriers & it got on my nerves using trash like that so I went with a few parts sitting in a bin that would probably continue to collect dust for the foreseeable future since the car that uses them rarely breaks anything . . .

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Yep, it's the entire outdrive cups, dogbones, axles, hubs, hexes, & upper arms from a 6s Arrma Senton. These parts fit so well that they were calling me to use them. These parts came from a roller which the chassis was used on the Zennon project. Most of the other part were sitting in a bin. This ride is evolving very quickly because of my trial & error. But I'm nearly done playing around with it. Now it's time to see some results.
 

Mongoose

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This is some serious modding! Nicely done. You must have a ton of parts to choose from to be able to find all of the parts that fit?
 
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Megasty

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I tend to keep a lot of old parts when I sell cars, especially HSP stuff since I'll occasionally build a cheapo. I have a ton of Arrma spares as well. I'll buy a cheap roller (not from the breakers) every time one pops up. I bought 2 this year. You never know when inspiration will spark. I usually can tell if a part will fit by eyeing it. It saves me the trouble of dealing with the duds too often. But mods can always fail. I'll give credit to the decade of modding Traxxas junk for that experience.
 
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Megasty

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She's done. I spent an hr running todaying on 4s with no problems. It is a bit of a handful though.
 
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Megasty

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It will either turn into a turtle or a bowling ball without it.
 

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