Granite Arrma Granite BLX wheel keeps falling off

[Billy Magic]

Hi Everyone,

I purchased the Arrma Granite BLX 4x4 at the beginning of the month after a long (30 yr) hiatus from RC cars. It's been a great hobby to get back into during the pandemic and it also doesn't hurt that I'm using my own money instead of begging mom and dad for parts like back in the day. I've been breaking/upgrading parts as I bash it, and most of the upgrades I've made have come from suggestions on this forum: Typhon 6s aluminum shocks installed, Pro Line Trenchers with the aluminum 14mm hex adapters, and RPM A-arms on front and back.

My newest problem is vexing me a bit. I keep losing my back right wheel during runs. It happens at the intersection of the driveshaft (AR310780) and the pinion (AR310764) and it looks like the teeth of the plastic driveshaft are worn down some or stripped. When I look at how they fit together It seems like they just lock together, like there's no screw or anything to tighten it on to. I've tried some superglue and Zap Threadlocker to no avail. It keeps coming off in the middle of a run. So far it's only happening on the one wheel.

My question are will this keep happening since I've upgraded the tires and have aluminum adapters on the hex nuts? Am I just placing too much stress on the driveshaft with the bigger tires? Am I looking at it correctly or am I missing something on the assembly? Should I consider an upgrade for the driveshafts to something like this? https://www.activepowersports.com/a...974/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse

I've got a new set of back driveshafts on the way so at least I can replace the part.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. I can also provide pictures if you think that would help.

 

[Arrmature]

AR310780 (front driveshaft - AR310864 is the part number for the rear driveshaft) doesn't connect to AR310764; I assume you're talking about where the driveshaft connects to the differential?

There is a screw at the end of the driveshaft that screws into the differential output gear shaft. You need long 2mm hex driver down the centre of the driveshaft to get it tight, and use blue loctite.

 

[Dutch]

or

 

[Billy Magic]

Sorry you're right I used the wrong part numbers. I was looking at the front not the rear. The correct part numbers that are coming apart are AR310784 and AR310864. Pictures attached. It's at the other end from the differential where the bearings are.

 

[Arrmature]

Answered two posts up. The driveshaft splines still look OK, but you'll want to look into changing out the bearings for sealed ones.

 

[GRC]

Sorry you're right I used the wrong part numbers. I was looking at the front not the rear. The correct part numbers that are coming apart are AR310784 and AR310864. Pictures attached. It's at the other end from the differential where the bearings are.

The pictures provided by Dutch are for the end you are referring to.

 

[Billy Magic]

Thanks to everyone who replied! After a quick trip to Home Depot to get a set of long metric hex wrenches I was able to get the screw to tighten what I thought was very tight (i.e. I couldn't turn it anymore). I put it all back together and took it out for a run when the wheel fell off again at the same place. Ugh.

So now I'm wondering if it's a different issue. Maybe the steel piece that connects to the driveshaft is stripped and the screw is not threading correctly or something? I mean I guess it wouldn't tighten if that's the case. I've taken it apart again and noticed some more damage on the splines but I was still able to put the steel piece back in. I used the hex wrench to tighten the screw again and then attempted as best I could to get the steel piece to come off. I pulled as hard as I could with a pair of pliers gripping it and I could not get it to come off again. So that should be good, right?

I seem to have some travel on each end and can't get the bearings to both be flush with the housing that connects to the A-Arm. I've attached pictures of the two positions. The drive shaft still turns just fine. Did I miss something?

I'll take it out again tomorrow and see if it holds. Again, thanks for the help. BTW If I wanted to upgrade to sealed bearings are there certain ones I should get?

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks to everyone who replied! After a quick trip to Home Depot to get a set of long metric hex wrenches I was able to get the screw to tighten what I thought was very tight (i.e. I couldn't turn it anymore). I put it all back together and took it out for a run when the wheel fell off again at the same place. Ugh.

So now I'm wondering if it's a different issue. Maybe the steel piece that connects to the driveshaft is stripped and the screw is not threading correctly or something? I mean I guess it wouldn't tighten if that's the case. I've taken it apart again and noticed some more damage on the splines but I was still able to put the steel piece back in. I used the hex wrench to tighten the screw again and then attempted as best I could to get the steel piece to come off. I pulled as hard as I could with a pair of pliers gripping it and I could not get it to come off again. So that should be good, right?

I seem to have some travel on each end and can't get the bearings to both be flush with the housing that connects to the A-Arm. I've attached pictures of the two positions. The drive shaft still turns just fine. Did I miss something?

I'll take it out again tomorrow and see if it holds. Again, thanks for the help. BTW If I wanted to upgrade to sealed bearings are there certain ones I should get?

View attachment 96693

View attachment 96694

You’ve got to use thread lock and let it cure for 24 hours.

 

[Rainger40]

What John said on the drive shaft screw, and clean out where the bearing seats and try to apply even pressure. Sometimes they just bind going in and you’ve got to wiggle them in.

 

[Arrmature]

Something doesn't look right in that second picture. Assuming that the inner hub bearing is in place, there's no way the hex should be able to get that far away from the hub.

As for bearings, it's best to buy a kit and do them all. I used Fast Eddy bearings, but if lived further south, I would have gone with a Jims Bearings kit. Fast Eddy is really the only option in the great white north.

 

[Billy Magic]

Something doesn't look right in that second picture. Assuming that the inner hub bearing is in place, there's no way the hex should be able to get that far away from the hub.

As for bearings, it's best to buy a kit and do them all. I used Fast Eddy bearings, but if lived further south, I would have gone with a Jims Bearings kit. Fast Eddy is really the only option in the great white north.

Yeah, I'm going to try and remove the outer bearing and re-seat it to see if I can get it flush. This is why I'm concerned that somehow the steel piece hasn't been driven down far enough and therefore the screw isn't threading correctly. I'll try to the Thread Lock on it as well and see if that does the trick.

Thanks for the tips on bearings. I live in Texas so perhaps I can get a Jims kit.

 

[Arrmature]

It could be that the splines in the driveshaft are in worse shape than I thought and the axle isn't inserting fully. The hex should be really close to the hub when it's all done.

 

[Rainger40]

I use trbrc bearings and I’m extremely pleased with them and the owner who took care of me when he really had no obligation too Due to amazon screw up. Used them on granite and Senton.

https://www.amazon.com/Arrma-Granit...keywords=trb+rc+granite&qid=1598586064&sr=8-1

 

[parcou]

@Billy Magic whatever you do don't order from Active Powersports. They list items in stock and never ship or have....I have been burned as well as others...

The post above is the correct fix....good luck

 

[Billy Magic]

Man, still trying to get everything seated properly and it's just not happening. The bearings refuse to both be flush at the same time. The outer one is as far down as it can go. The inner one seems to be in the right spot as well. i'm just going to have to run it, see if it works and if not, probably install a new drive shaft at least.
Here's a photo of the outer bearing on the steel pin. It doesn't look like the outer bearing is the problem.

 

[insomnia77]

Hi Everyone,

I purchased the Arrma Granite BLX 4x4 at the beginning of the month after a long (30 yr) hiatus from RC cars. It's been a great hobby to get back into during the pandemic and it also doesn't hurt that I'm using my own money instead of begging mom and dad for parts like back in the day. I've been breaking/upgrading parts as I bash it, and most of the upgrades I've made have come from suggestions on this forum: Typhon 6s aluminum shocks installed, Pro Line Trenchers with the aluminum 14mm hex adapters, and RPM A-arms on front and back.

My newest problem is vexing me a bit. I keep losing my back right wheel during runs. It happens at the intersection of the driveshaft (AR310780) and the pinion (AR310764) and it looks like the teeth of the plastic driveshaft are worn down some or stripped. When I look at how they fit together It seems like they just lock together, like there's no screw or anything to tighten it on to. I've tried some superglue and Zap Threadlocker to no avail. It keeps coming off in the middle of a run. So far it's only happening on the one wheel.

My question are will this keep happening since I've upgraded the tires and have aluminum adapters on the hex nuts? Am I just placing too much stress on the driveshaft with the bigger tires? Am I looking at it correctly or am I missing something on the assembly? Should I consider an upgrade for the driveshafts to something like this? https://www.activepowersports.com/a...974/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse

I've got a new set of back driveshafts on the way so at least I can replace the part.

Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. I can also provide pictures if you think that would help.

What version granite? Because there are a couple of YouTube videos of v3 with wheel falling off . 2 different YouTube posters .

 

[Billy Magic]

I believe it's version 3. Can't say for sure because I no longer have the box and not sure I could find the receipt. Bought it from Hobby Town about a month ago if that helps.

 

[Arrmature]

It's probably not a V3. Can you post a shot of just the axle fully seated in the driveshaft?

 

[jondilly1974]

Take the bearing off the axle and pull out the driveshaft. Put a dab of blue thread lock on the retained screw inside the driveshaft. Put the axle back in the driveshaft and tighten the screw. Let that sit for a full 24 hours before putting the truck back together.

 

[GRC]

Man, still trying to get everything seated properly and it's just not happening. The bearings refuse to both be flush at the same time. The outer one is as far down as it can go.

It's probably not a V3. Can you post a shot of just the axle fully seated in the driveshaft?

Bearings may not be seating because you don't have the axle and driveshaft fully seated.