Granite Arrma Granite Voltage Internal Diff Problem?

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Tom Buckley

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Arrma RC's
  1. Voltage
I have recently spent all my money on a brand new Arrma Granite Voltage. I had only used it about 3 or 4 times when I did a small jump and I ran into a problem. I tried to accelerate away but it didn’t move. It just made an odd whirring sound. After further investigation I believe it’s the interior diff. I’m quite sure it is not the spur or pinion, and I don’t think it’s the Differencial outdrive. Does anyone know what is wrong as I really need help, as I am fairly new to the hobby and don’t know much about them. I would love to get back out there with my brand new car so your help would be much appreciated.
 
Diff cups are plastic and are a known issue. if you remove the rear axle you can get a good look at what may be the problem. Some have had issues with broken outdrive shafts as well.

This is a video of a guy tearing it down.. jump to about 4 min he talks a lot


Maybe a picture will describe it better ;)
 

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Diff cups are plastic and are a known issue. if you remove the rear axle you can get a good look at what may be the problem. Some have had issues with broken outdrive shafts as well.

This is a video of a guy tearing it down.. jump to about 4 min he talks a lot


Maybe a picture will describe it better ;)
Thanks, I’ll check that out and get back to you. I really appreciate the help as I am brand new to the hobby and I didn’t want t have to rip into the gear box.
 
Gear box is hard to get too. probably just the Diff Overdrive.
If you have any-questions feel free to ask, I'm no expert but I will try to help.. I"m recently back into the hobby after a 20 eer 30 year brake.. wow it has been a while ;)

MSRP $4.49
DIFF OUTDRIVE (2 PCS)
#AR310862 (ARAC4014)
 
Hi, I just tried to check the inner diff, but when I went to try pop the diff out, it wouldn’t come out, I even got my dad to try but it wouldn’t budge. On the video he seems to pop it out with ease. Do you know of any tricks to pop it out?. Thanks, Tom.
 
I'm guessing it's spun and wedged on there.. the only solution I can offer over the internet is try a flat head screw driver and pry between the case the diff cup.. it should come right off, so if it's stuck it's probably damaged.
 

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I’ve found the problem. Both the internal diffs were stripped. Really appreciate the help. 1 question. So that I don’t order the wrong part could you please tell me, is the internal diff different from the outer diff attached to the wheel.
 

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Diff cups are plastic and are a known issue. if you remove the rear axle you can get a good look at what may be the problem. Some have had issues with broken outdrive shafts as well.

This is a video of a guy tearing it down.. jump to about 4 min he talks a lot


Maybe a picture will describe it better ;)
I’m returning to a hobby with my two sons, I have purchased 3 granite voltages as an intro for my boys, as I often did in the past I would stock multiple spares for parts that broke easily. I had read that the plastic outdrives would strip. I purchased 8. I know there are metal alternatives but I want my boys to learn to fix their stuff. I broke the diff shaft on my second charge (all stock). My son broke his after four runs, however I have his transmitter set at half throttle. The diff outdrive cups are fine, the cast metal of the diff shaft snapped. Regular use, nothing wild. What I would like to know is if their is a diff upgrade (another model compatibility), or replacement diff outdrive shafts that are steel, machined or hardened. I know this is an entry level rc the extra wrenching to replace the parts is expected, however every two runs would not be worthy of our time. It may be since I purchased three at once I received a lot with a fluke flaw.
Diff cups are plastic and are a known issue. if you remove the rear axle you can get a good look at what may be the problem. Some have had issues with broken outdrive shafts as well.

This is a video of a guy tearing it down.. jump to about 4 min he talks a lot


Maybe a picture will describe it better ;)
I’m returning to a hobby with my two sons, I have purchased 3 granite voltages as an intro for my boys, as I often did in the past I would stock multiple spares for parts that broke easily. I had read that the plastic outdrives would strip. I purchased 8. I know there are metal alternatives but I want my boys to learn to fix their stuff. I broke the diff shaft on my second charge (all stock). My son broke his after four runs, however I have his transmitter set at half throttle. The diff outdrive cups are fine, the cast metal of the diff shaft snapped. Regular use, nothing wild. What I would like to know is if their is a diff upgrade (another model compatibility), or replacement diff outdrive shafts that are steel, machined or hardened. I know this is an entry level rc the extra wrenching to replace the parts is expected, however every two runs would not be worthy of our time. It may be since I purchased three at once I received a lot with a fluke flaw, but I would like these to run. Any suggestions?
 

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I’m returning to a hobby with my two sons, I have purchased 3 granite voltages as an intro for my boys, as I often did in the past I would stock multiple spares for parts that broke easily. I had read that the plastic outdrives would strip. I purchased 8. I know there are metal alternatives but I want my boys to learn to fix their stuff. I broke the diff shaft on my second charge (all stock). My son broke his after four runs, however I have his transmitter set at half throttle. The diff outdrive cups are fine, the cast metal of the diff shaft snapped. Regular use, nothing wild. What I would like to know is if their is a diff upgrade (another model compatibility), or replacement diff outdrive shafts that are steel, machined or hardened. I know this is an entry level rc the extra wrenching to replace the parts is expected, however every two runs would not be worthy of our time. It may be since I purchased three at once I received a lot with a fluke flaw.

I’m returning to a hobby with my two sons, I have purchased 3 granite voltages as an intro for my boys, as I often did in the past I would stock multiple spares for parts that broke easily. I had read that the plastic outdrives would strip. I purchased 8. I know there are metal alternatives but I want my boys to learn to fix their stuff. I broke the diff shaft on my second charge (all stock). My son broke his after four runs, however I have his transmitter set at half throttle. The diff outdrive cups are fine, the cast metal of the diff shaft snapped. Regular use, nothing wild. What I would like to know is if their is a diff upgrade (another model compatibility), or replacement diff outdrive shafts that are steel, machined or hardened. I know this is an entry level rc the extra wrenching to replace the parts is expected, however every two runs would not be worthy of our time. It may be since I purchased three at once I received a lot with a fluke flaw, but I would like these to run. Any suggestions?
This happened to me on BOTH of the new Granite Voltages I bought for my son and daughter. Contacted HH and they sent me a replacement, so far no other problems on stock setup. The break happens right at the end of the machined key for the diff cup ON BOTH. What ever the issue it does not seem to extend to the replacement diff. Seems to me this would be a great opportunity for HH to introduce an alternative metal diff.
 
I’m returning to a hobby with my two sons, I have purchased 3 granite voltages as an intro for my boys, as I often did in the past I would stock multiple spares for parts that broke easily. I had read that the plastic outdrives would strip. I purchased 8. I know there are metal alternatives but I want my boys to learn to fix their stuff. I broke the diff shaft on my second charge (all stock). My son broke his after four runs, however I have his transmitter set at half throttle. The diff outdrive cups are fine, the cast metal of the diff shaft snapped. Regular use, nothing wild. What I would like to know is if their is a diff upgrade (another model compatibility), or replacement diff outdrive shafts that are steel, machined or hardened. I know this is an entry level rc the extra wrenching to replace the parts is expected, however every two runs would not be worthy of our time. It may be since I purchased three at once I received a lot with a fluke flaw, but I would like these to run. Any suggestions?
for the outer cup upgrade, use the Kraton 6S diff cups. https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310432

For the meatal upgrades to the Voltage: https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=37130&p_catid=495 (search the site for 'Granite Voltage' for other parts and colors) They are expensive (diffs same as a whole new Voltage) I have not gone full metal yet, just the outer cups and I have been pretty good. Replaced the inner diff with factory plastic, the inside metal gears were good.

Only issue is now one of my wheels spins faster than the other so it always pulls to one side. Not sure how to fix that, maybe the $100 diff would fix it
 
Has anyone found these in metal?
This.
Tempting but I’m not ready to spend that plus postage on the voltage yet. Got two I’ve upgraded, one brushless one brushed, And a third I’m working on. The central gears are holding fine and we beat the crud out of them near daily. It’s the spur gear that takes a beating and it’s cheap. I haven’t even had to replace one yet, though one has ground halfway down it still works great.

Do you know what upgrading all the gears to metal does to these cars? Makes them ass heavy. Very very ass heavy. I’ve got both my weighing in at 5.2 pounds and 5 pounds with good batteries. I think keeping them light is part of the fun. They even float, which is good if you drive it into a lake.

DEAD761B-E0B5-4271-82CD-36600D1CF4B7.png
 
for the outer cup upgrade, use the Kraton 6S diff cups. https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310432

For the meatal upgrades to the Voltage: https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=37130&p_catid=495 (search the site for 'Granite Voltage' for other parts and colors) They are expensive (diffs same as a whole new Voltage) I have not gone full metal yet, just the outer cups and I have been pretty good. Replaced the inner diff with factory plastic, the inside metal gears were good.

Only issue is now one of my wheels spins faster than the other so it always pulls to one side. Not sure how to fix that, maybe the $100 diff would fix it
It’s just the way its set up on the inner gears. Of the three I have, I’ve gotten two to track perfect on accelerations that used to go all catty whumpus, and the third is still a little off balance. I shemmed the inside gears as needed and use either red and tacky or a good silicon grease on the inside gears (not the spur though). I haven’t bothered messing with the differentials yet. When I pull them apart again (after breakage) I will check those.

These things are far more durable than expected. I’ve only broken one c clap so far out of all three. The only gear issues I’ve had is one decided to grind the spur halfway down. It still works great and seems to have found it’s happy place so Ive left it until it dies.
 
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