Granite Arrma Granite Voltage

[Owner#Senton3S]

Recently a family member got the Arrma Granite Voltage (which they like it), and I was wondering if there are any recommended upgrades for it?

 

[suchtragedy]

I have a voltage that I've had for a while and have done a lot to it so here's my feedback. Not saying everything I list should be something you upgrade but at least it should give you a better idea of what to expect when it needs to be serviced and what options you have.

The most known issue the voltage has is with the plastic diff outdrive cups. They are known to strip out easily but you can install some 7x18mm metal diff outdrives from the 6s line and they work rather well (AR310432 x 2). Otherwise it's a good idea to stock up on the plastic ones (AR310862).

The voltage servo is weak (5kg, all plastic gears) but any standard servo can be used. The stock servo is a 5 pin servo but the voltage esc has an unused 3 pin servo port. I've got the 15kg arrma servo from the 6s trucks in mine and it's been great.

The tires don't have much grip, are very soft, and on pavement I found they wear pretty fast. I've used the 3s granite 14mm hexes and wheels on my voltage and was pretty happy with that setup. They have substantially more grip and because the voltage is direct gear driven you'll have to be careful with the trigger, especially on jumps. If you don't let off the throttle when you land there's a good chance you'll break the diff outdrive itself or strip the outdrive cup if using the stock plastic ones. Also should mention that the 14mm hexes use a 2.5mm pin and the voltage axles accept a 2mm pin. To use the 2.5mm pins you will need to drill out the pin hole on the axles slightly. If you use 2mm pins with the 14mm granite hexes you will have noticeable slop and pins may even fail/fall out.

The voltage combo esc/receiver works great but many people eventually upgrade if/when it dies with a standard esc, receiver/transmitter, and servo system. The voltage doesn't have a receiver box since it's integrated in the stock esc but if you end up swapping to a separate esc/receiver you can add the optional receiver box to house the receiver for extra protection from the elements (AR320422).

If you want a little more speed without going brushless the arrma mega 540 (15T) or 550 (12T) motors with a 48p 19T pinion would be a decent upgrade. Both work fine with the stock esc and drop right in.

If you want to go brushless the GoolRC 60A/3550 sized motors combos seem to do fine, however the motors can be tricky to fit if the motor wires come out at a fixed 90° angle because the motor isn't long enough to completely clear the motor hole in the chassis. If you get a 3550 motor try to find one where the wires come out straight from the rear of the motor can otherwise 3660 or longer motors shouldn't have wire clearance issues.

The voltage bumpers are barely existent, however T-bone racing makes aftermarket bumpers for the voltage. I have both the front bumper and rear bumper/wheelie bar and they both work great.
https://tboneracing.net/collections/granite-voltage

Unlike the other arrmas, the voltage uses Phillips head screws for everything and not hex head screws. I have replaced all my voltage screws with hex screws because the Phillips head screws all striped easily.

Other than that you should probably get some spare parts on hand for when you need them. The ones I recommend are the differential and idler gear set (AR310765), spur gear (AR310764), and maybe a spare chassis (AR320382). Both shock towers and motor mount are all integrated into the chassis so a break in any of those will require a chassis swap. I found the plastic for the voltage to be more on the brittle side so be careful when tightening screws, especially the screws for the motor, motor cover, and shocks.

 

[Vietnemesis]

@suchtragedy thanks for the very descriptive post.

 

[Owner#Senton3S]

Thank you so much!!!

 

[TheDudeAbides]

thank you so much for this! I just got one recently and have not broken anything yet, but want to upgrade and get spare parts. Bookmarked this post for future reference for sure!

 

[southcakk843]

I have a voltage that I've had for a while and have done a lot to it so here's my feedback. Not saying everything I list should be something you upgrade but at least it should give you a better idea of what to expect when it needs to be serviced and what options you have.

The most known issue the voltage has is with the plastic diff outdrive cups. They are known to strip out easily but you can install some 7x18mm metal diff outdrives from the 6s line and they work rather well (AR310432 x 2). Otherwise it's a good idea to stock up on the plastic ones (AR310862).

The voltage servo is weak (5kg, all plastic gears) but any standard servo can be used. The stock servo is a 5 pin servo but the voltage esc has an unused 3 pin servo port. I've got the 15kg arrma servo from the 6s trucks in mine and it's been great.

The tires don't have much grip, are very soft, and on pavement I found they wear pretty fast. I've used the 3s granite 14mm hexes and wheels on my voltage and was pretty happy with that setup. They have substantially more grip and because the voltage is direct gear driven you'll have to be careful with the trigger, especially on jumps. If you don't let off the throttle when you land there's a good chance you'll break the diff outdrive itself or strip the outdrive cup if using the stock plastic ones. Also should mention that the 14mm hexes use a 2.5mm pin and the voltage axles accept a 2mm pin. To use the 2.5mm pins you will need to drill out the pin hole on the axles slightly. If you use 2mm pins with the 14mm granite hexes you will have noticeable slop and pins may even fail/fall out.

The voltage combo esc/receiver works great but many people eventually upgrade if/when it dies with a standard esc, receiver/transmitter, and servo system. The voltage doesn't have a receiver box since it's integrated in the stock esc but if you end up swapping to a separate esc/receiver you can add the optional receiver box to house the receiver for extra protection from the elements (AR320422).

If you want a little more speed without going brushless the arrma mega 540 (15T) or 550 (12T) motors with a 48p 19T pinion would be a decent upgrade. Both work fine with the stock esc and drop right in.

If you want to go brushless the GoolRC 60A/3550 sized motors combos seem to do fine, however the motors can be tricky to fit if the motor wires come out at a fixed 90° angle because the motor isn't long enough to completely clear the motor hole in the chassis. If you get a 3550 motor try to find one where the wires come out straight from the rear of the motor can otherwise 3660 or longer motors shouldn't have wire clearance issues.

The voltage bumpers are barely existent, however T-bone racing makes aftermarket bumpers for the voltage. I have both the front bumper and rear bumper/wheelie bar and they both work great.
https://tboneracing.net/collections/granite-voltage

Unlike the other arrmas, the voltage uses Phillips head screws for everything and not hex head screws. I have replaced all my voltage screws with hex screws because the Phillips head screws all striped easily.

Other than that you should probably get some spare parts on hand for when you need them. The ones I recommend are the differential and idler gear set (AR310765), spur gear (AR310764), and maybe a spare chassis (AR320382). Both shock towers and motor mount are all integrated into the chassis so a break in any of those will require a chassis swap. I found the plastic for the voltage to be more on the brittle side so be careful when tightening screws, especially the screws for the motor, motor cover, and shocks.

Hey with the metal diff cups do they fit that lil nub that come from the rear differential jus like how the plastic one’s would? I kno the metal ones has a screw but will it fit n screw on tight? And how do u feel about the billet metal diff ..I need to go all metal gears

 

[suchtragedy]

Hey with the metal diff cups do they fit that lil nub that come from the rear differential jus like how the plastic one’s would? I kno the metal ones has a screw but will it fit n screw on tight? And how do u feel about the billet metal diff ..I need to go all metal gears

Yeah they fit just the same and use either 1 or 2 (Arrma oem uses 1, hot racing ones use 2) set screws to secure.

As far as the all metal spur/diff upgrade from integy I mean yeah it's probably way stronger, but at over $100usd for a set to install on a $99 truck well that's just not for me but if you have the money to throw at it and don't care then go for it. When looking at the total cost to buy the voltage and upgrade to the all metal gearing you are basically are spending the same amount as it would cost to buy a new brushed mega 4x4 and that's before you even upgrade the voltage electronics to brushless.

 

[southcakk843]

Tru but I had a brushless system already but honestly I’m new to this hobby did really know what I was looking into and all the different cars/trucks and how they perform..know I do but the granite voltage is my second rc really on the budget side.

 

[Velodromed]

I have a voltage that I've had for a while and have done a lot to it so here's my feedback. Not saying everything I list should be something you upgrade but at least it should give you a better idea of what to expect when it needs to be serviced and what options you have.

The most known issue the voltage has is with the plastic diff outdrive cups. They are known to strip out easily but you can install some 7x18mm metal diff outdrives from the 6s line and they work rather well (AR310432 x 2). Otherwise it's a good idea to stock up on the plastic ones (AR310862).

The voltage servo is weak (5kg, all plastic gears) but any standard servo can be used. The stock servo is a 5 pin servo but the voltage esc has an unused 3 pin servo port. I've got the 15kg arrma servo from the 6s trucks in mine and it's been great.

The tires don't have much grip, are very soft, and on pavement I found they wear pretty fast. I've used the 3s granite 14mm hexes and wheels on my voltage and was pretty happy with that setup. They have substantially more grip and because the voltage is direct gear driven you'll have to be careful with the trigger, especially on jumps. If you don't let off the throttle when you land there's a good chance you'll break the diff outdrive itself or strip the outdrive cup if using the stock plastic ones. Also should mention that the 14mm hexes use a 2.5mm pin and the voltage axles accept a 2mm pin. To use the 2.5mm pins you will need to drill out the pin hole on the axles slightly. If you use 2mm pins with the 14mm granite hexes you will have noticeable slop and pins may even fail/fall out.

The voltage combo esc/receiver works great but many people eventually upgrade if/when it dies with a standard esc, receiver/transmitter, and servo system. The voltage doesn't have a receiver box since it's integrated in the stock esc but if you end up swapping to a separate esc/receiver you can add the optional receiver box to house the receiver for extra protection from the elements (AR320422).

If you want a little more speed without going brushless the arrma mega 540 (15T) or 550 (12T) motors with a 48p 19T pinion would be a decent upgrade. Both work fine with the stock esc and drop right in.

If you want to go brushless the GoolRC 60A/3550 sized motors combos seem to do fine, however the motors can be tricky to fit if the motor wires come out at a fixed 90° angle because the motor isn't long enough to completely clear the motor hole in the chassis. If you get a 3550 motor try to find one where the wires come out straight from the rear of the motor can otherwise 3660 or longer motors shouldn't have wire clearance issues.

The voltage bumpers are barely existent, however T-bone racing makes aftermarket bumpers for the voltage. I have both the front bumper and rear bumper/wheelie bar and they both work great.
https://tboneracing.net/collections/granite-voltage

Unlike the other arrmas, the voltage uses Phillips head screws for everything and not hex head screws. I have replaced all my voltage screws with hex screws because the Phillips head screws all striped easily.

Other than that you should probably get some spare parts on hand for when you need them. The ones I recommend are the differential and idler gear set (AR310765), spur gear (AR310764), and maybe a spare chassis (AR320382). Both shock towers and motor mount are all integrated into the chassis so a break in any of those will require a chassis swap. I found the plastic for the voltage to be more on the brittle side so be careful when tightening screws, especially the screws for the motor, motor cover, and shocks.

I have a voltage that I've had for a while and have done a lot to it so here's my feedback. Not saying everything I list should be something you upgrade but at least it should give you a better idea of what to expect when it needs to be serviced and what options you have.

The most known issue the voltage has is with the plastic diff outdrive cups. They are known to strip out easily but you can install some 7x18mm metal diff outdrives from the 6s line and they work rather well (AR310432 x 2). Otherwise it's a good idea to stock up on the plastic ones (AR310862).

The voltage servo is weak (5kg, all plastic gears) but any standard servo can be used. The stock servo is a 5 pin servo but the voltage esc has an unused 3 pin servo port. I've got the 15kg arrma servo from the 6s trucks in mine and it's been great.

The tires don't have much grip, are very soft, and on pavement I found they wear pretty fast. I've used the 3s granite 14mm hexes and wheels on my voltage and was pretty happy with that setup. They have substantially more grip and because the voltage is direct gear driven you'll have to be careful with the trigger, especially on jumps. If you don't let off the throttle when you land there's a good chance you'll break the diff outdrive itself or strip the outdrive cup if using the stock plastic ones. Also should mention that the 14mm hexes use a 2.5mm pin and the voltage axles accept a 2mm pin. To use the 2.5mm pins you will need to drill out the pin hole on the axles slightly. If you use 2mm pins with the 14mm granite hexes you will have noticeable slop and pins may even fail/fall out.

The voltage combo esc/receiver works great but many people eventually upgrade if/when it dies with a standard esc, receiver/transmitter, and servo system. The voltage doesn't have a receiver box since it's integrated in the stock esc but if you end up swapping to a separate esc/receiver you can add the optional receiver box to house the receiver for extra protection from the elements (AR320422).

If you want a little more speed without going brushless the arrma mega 540 (15T) or 550 (12T) motors with a 48p 19T pinion would be a decent upgrade. Both work fine with the stock esc and drop right in.

If you want to go brushless the GoolRC 60A/3550 sized motors combos seem to do fine, however the motors can be tricky to fit if the motor wires come out at a fixed 90° angle because the motor isn't long enough to completely clear the motor hole in the chassis. If you get a 3550 motor try to find one where the wires come out straight from the rear of the motor can otherwise 3660 or longer motors shouldn't have wire clearance issues.

The voltage bumpers are barely existent, however T-bone racing makes aftermarket bumpers for the voltage. I have both the front bumper and rear bumper/wheelie bar and they both work great.
https://tboneracing.net/collections/granite-voltage

Unlike the other arrmas, the voltage uses Phillips head screws for everything and not hex head screws. I have replaced all my voltage screws with hex screws because the Phillips head screws all striped easily.

Other than that you should probably get some spare parts on hand for when you need them. The ones I recommend are the differential and idler gear set (AR310765), spur gear (AR310764), and maybe a spare chassis (AR320382). Both shock towers and motor mount are all integrated into the chassis so a break in any of those will require a chassis swap. I found the plastic for the voltage to be more on the brittle side so be careful when tightening screws, especially the screws for the motor, motor cover, and shocks.

Thank you so much, this is very informative as I begin to work on my and my wife’s voltages. I am curious regarding the brittleness of the chassis plastic…Would soaking it in WD-40 or boiling it or using armor all (like I see so many use on other plastic parts) help ease the brittle?
Or is this the wrong kind of plastic for that process?
Many thanks!!