Kraton Arrma kraton 4s pinion wear

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Surchaufeur

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Im against a really weird problem i have put a new spur gear and pinion 13t and my 13t pinion is starting to wear like the first one. When i switched to a 15t pinion for 2 weeks pinion was fine but i broke the slipper endplate in the back instead.. and also stripped 2 screws in the motor mount now i have 2 longer screws with a nut at the end.
Im against a really weird problem i have put a new spur gear and pinion 13t and my 13t pinion is starting to wear like the first one. When i switched to a 15t pinion for 2 weeks pinion was fine but i broke the slipper endplate in the back instead.. and also stripped 2 screws in the motor mount now i have 2 longer screws with a nut at the end.
Pictures of the old spur and pinion

image.jpg
image.jpg
 
Robinson racing hard pinion. Problems solved
They are not available where i live.. the best is ebay 25$cad
It's hard to see in the photos but it looks like the mesh may be too loose.
No its not too loose with my new spur and pinion the mesh was barely there because was too tight
 
I'm not a fan of RRP simply because half the pinions use SAE set screws, half use metric. They're not even marked. Like WTF Robinson Racing?

They are high quality steel though, I will give them that.
 
They are not available where i live.. the best is ebay 25$cad

No its not too loose with my new spur and pinion the mesh was barely there because was too tight

I think the real fix is probably to slot the holes in the motor plate a little bit with a dremel or file. I'm going to do that next time out, because the mesh is too tight on my Kraton also and putting a lot of side load on the motor bearings. My motor bearings will probably break soon.

It's pretty stupid that Arrma can't get the mesh right on these motor plates. I thought that was the whole point of the motor plates, so that your mesh would be perfect every time, lol.
 
I think the real fix is probably to slot the holes in the motor plate a little bit with a dremel or file. I'm going to do that next time out, because the mesh is too tight on my Kraton also and putting a lot of side load on the motor bearings. My motor bearings will probably break soon.

It's pretty stupid that Arrma can't get the mesh right on these motor plates. I thought that was the whole point of the motor plates, so that your mesh would be perfect every time, lol.
Apparemtly my new motor mount was bended. I fixed it and i have the right gear mesh now but i don't think its going to stop the pinion wear and spur
 
I'm not a fan of RRP simply because half the pinions use SAE set screws, half use metric. They're not even marked. Like WTF Robinson Racing?

They are high quality steel though, I will give them that.
RRP has been mixing and matching Standard and metric for a while. I cant explain it either. Drives me crazy at times, but got used to it. A trade off for quality machined gears I guess. Sort of like GM and their mixed bag of SAE and Metric fasteners of years past. American companies tend to do that. It must be a subconious resistance to the metric system.:LOL: But it is 2019 and metric is pretty much the standard everywhere.
 
I think the real fix is probably to slot the holes in the motor plate a little bit with a dremel or file. I'm going to do that next time out, because the mesh is too tight on my Kraton also and putting a lot of side load on the motor bearings. My motor bearings will probably break soon.

It's pretty stupid that Arrma can't get the mesh right on these motor plates. I thought that was the whole point of the motor plates, so that your mesh would be perfect every time, lol.
Also i keep having to unben my motor month almost everytime i have nose landing or something like that a little accident 20kmh on a wall is enough to bend my motor mount... i can tell because my gears makes a differant noise than what ussualy makes
 
Also i keep having to unben my motor month almost everytime i have nose landing or something like that a little accident 20kmh on a wall is enough to bend my motor mount... i can tell because my gears makes a differant noise than what ussualy makes
I only have 6S rigs. But from experience, That prefixed pin. spur design is done for speedy manufacturing purposes. It does nothing for the end user. And if done imprecisely it can wreak havoc on the pin/spur. Like we see here. This concept is not really new. Like I stated earlier, Traxxas has this design in their TRX-4 Crawler. (I have one) The fix is to get an upgrade aluminum motor mount. But the TRX version works for the most part.
I am old school and prefer to set my own mesh exactly where I want it to be. I can alter gear pitch as well using many different pin. spur combinations. And never any issues in this way. When I select my rigs before purchase, I would pass up a rig if it has a preset mesh setup. My TRX crawler was a freebie . But as an example, I never would have purchased it for this reason, aside from being a Traxxas.:LOL:.
 
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I bet a rear motor mount support bracket would help. Time to fab one up??
 
I bet a rear motor mount support bracket would help. Time to fab one up??
A complete billet aluminum upgrade CNC'd to high ISO standards would be the fix. IMO. In a perfect world at least.:LOL:
 
I only have 6S rigs. But from experience, That prefixed pin. spur design is done for speedy manufacturing purposes. It does nothing for the end user. And if done imprecisely it can wreak havoc on the pin/spur. Like we see here. This concept is not really new. Like I stated earlier, Traxxas has this design in their TRX-4 Crawler. (I have one) The fix is to get an upgrade aluminum motor mount. But the TRX version works for the most part.
I am old school and prefer to set my own mesh exactly where I want it to be. I can alter gear pitch as well using many different pin. spur combinations. And never any issues in this way. When I select my rigs before purchase, I would pass up a rig if it has a preset mesh setup. My TRX crawler was a freebie . But as an example, I never would have purchased it for this reason, aside from being a Traxxas.:LOL:.

I’m pretty sure they do it for reliability and to make it idiot proof. Judging by how many people have problems with slipper clutches and EPAs, it actually makes sense. I think it’s a good thing if implemented properly.

I also have a TRX4.
 
I’m pretty sure they do it for reliability and to make it idiot proof. Judging by how many people have problems with slipper clutches and EPAs, it actually makes sense. I think it’s a good thing if implemented properly.

I also have a TRX4.
The key word there is “IF”... they can’t.
 
I’m pretty sure they do it for reliability and to make it idiot proof. Judging by how many people have problems with slipper clutches and EPAs, it actually makes sense. I think it’s a good thing if implemented properly.

I also have a TRX4.
In this hobby, nothing is idiot proof. You either understand something or you don't. Just a little knowledge helps out. One example is how to set pinion spur mesh on a standard design. The paper method has worked for many years and eventually you can do it blind folded by feel.
I personally feel the preset motor mount design is just over engineering at an expense to the user. As we see in this example. And it definitely provides for a faster Mfr. production pace. Remember, these are RTR's , not kits. RTR mfr. requires very fast paced building. Setting gear mesh to 100's of motor pinions by eye and hand costs money. Especially considering how China cracks the whip with labor productivity.
We get to enjoy these fun rigs perhaps at the expense of very young labor and poor conditions. Just a reality check. I think about that sometimes with the many goods we get from outsourced venues.
I digress..:)
 
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In this hobby, nothing is idiot proof. You either understand something or you don't. Just a little knowledge helps out. One example is how to set pinion spur mesh on a standard design. The paper method has worked for many years and eventually you can do it blind folded by feel.
I personally feel the preset motor mount design is just over engineering at an expense to the user. As we see in this example. And it definitely provides for a faster Mfr. production pace. Remember, these are RTR's , not kits. RTR mfr. requires very fast paced building. Setting gear mesh to 100's of motor pinions by eye and hand costs money. Especially considering how China cracks the whip with labor productivity.
We get to enjoy these fun rigs perhaps at the expense of very young labor and poor conditions. Just a reality check. I think about that sometimes with the many goods we get from outsourced venues.
I digress..:)

You're right about the setting of the mesh during manufacturing, I didn't think about that, I was just considering the machining of the plate itself.

That said, it's pretty clear Arrma designs their cars to be as idiot-proof as possible. Examples are the 14mm hexes on their 3S line (rather than industry standard 12mm), their self-bleeding shock design, their non-adjustability of shock locations (which the CEO admitted on interview they don't do so that they don't confuse their customers), stuff like everything bolts together only one way. If you read half the posts in this forum, it's also clear a lot of people can't handle some of the simple concepts. And the average forum denizen is more informed than the average customer out there not reading this.

The preset holes is more reliable, there's no doubt about that. The mesh can't move if you slam into a tree at 50mph. You might bend your motor mount, but the motor screws ain't sliding over! ???

The key word there is “IF”... they can’t.

You're not wrong. ?
 
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