Kraton Arrma Kraton 4s V2 “Ultimate”

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L.bizzy RC

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Arrma RC's
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Just got my kraton 4s and starting to take it apart. Hope this build be a monster.

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Alright EXB diffs vs EXB diffs.. I guess molded steel vs CNC machine steel. You be the judge…The ones with with the grease is stock take off the other is new part# ARA311072.. should’ve took it apart and checked the diffs just gonna see how it handles first.

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@HZRDOS ..Well I thought the CVD’s were the same size🤔 as the optional ones Part# ARA310893..they still work tho. The sleeve is the same the shaft is shorter I don’t think it will pop out will see..still like the cup better on the optionals. And it’s a weight difference stock 231grams optional 274grams

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@HZRDOS ..Well I thought the CVD’s were the same size🤔 as the optional ones Part# ARA310893..they still work tho. The sleeve is the same the shaft is shorter I don’t think it will pop out will see..still like the cup better on the optionals. And it’s a weight difference stock 231grams optional 274grams

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Figured that may be the case. Can you switch the cups between the two?

Also the diff main gear and input gears do look like that have a lower pitch/higher mod in the new diffs.
@HZRDOS ..Well I thought the CVD’s were the same size🤔 as the optional ones Part# ARA310893..they still work tho. The sleeve is the same the shaft is shorter I don’t think it will pop out will see..still like the cup better on the optionals. And it’s a weight difference stock 231grams optional 274grams

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If the balls are the same size, you should be able to interchange the cups.
 
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Almost done electronics out new ones in Max8 G2 2500kv was gonna put the 2050kv in but not running on 6S 4s is plenty. Went with the S6260 spektrum high speed servo, 20t Robinson Racing 8720 extra hard 5m/m 8.Mod pinion. Might have to go down to probably a 16t but will see…Dx5 Pro bind to the SR315. Kronos XTR shocks haven’t change shock oil gonna see what it does.

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Figured that may be the case. Can you switch the cups between the two?

Also the diff main gear and input gears do look like that have a lower pitch/higher mod in the new diffs.

If the balls are the same size, you should be able to interchange the cups.
Yeah that’s what I end up doing putting the cups on the new CVD’s
 
The build is done can’t wait to rip it just need it to stop raining

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Curious how those yokes hold up, especially in the rear. The plastic ones work okay in the front but the rear really gets alot of torque by comparison. I ate through a set of CNC gears in 20 or so packs.
Do those CVD click at all? Mine do on my V1 4s Outcast.
 
Curious how those yokes hold up, especially in the rear. The plastic ones work okay in the front but the rear really gets alot of torque by comparison. I ate through a set of CNC gears in 20 or so packs.
Do those CVD click at all? Mine do on my V1 4s Outcast.
Haven’t got a chance to run it yet but on the bench given it a couple of pulls only thing that’s clicking is the center drive shaft bearing bounces.. on the CVD’s side of things I just swapped the cups out.
 
Haven’t got a chance to run it yet but on the bench given it a couple of pulls only thing that’s clicking is the center drive shaft bearing bounces.. on the CVD’s side of things I just swapped the cups out.
Also, FWIW, the shorter inner pieces won't slip out. Use them alot on my V1 K4 axles, I doubt the CVDs behave any differently with exception of durability.
 
Also, FWIW, the shorter inner pieces won't slip out. Use them alot on my V1 K4 axles, I doubt the CVDs behave any differently with exception of durability.
They could’ve come up with something better then what they put on trying to fix something fast and didn’t do the fronts is bizarre imo. even if they just made the sleeve part on the cup like the V1 but make it steel. Wouldn’t be hard to make.
 
I wouldn’t consider it done until you put the M2C chassis brace on it. And possibly the motor mount and brace. so far it looks awesome and it will be a great build, but it would be a shame to put all that work into it just to break it in half without a brace.
 
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