Kraton Arrma Kraton diff oils

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I am also keen to know the characteristics of the Kraton with this set up. I also hate too much wheelie action and I detest the ballooning of the front wheels. I run on bumpy grass, sand pits and mossy damp carpark.

I was advised today to try 7000 front, 10,000 center and 5000 rear. That's from a man who races buggies.

I run mainly on bumpy grass and some pavement. 7k/10k/5k is stock in the Kraton..
 
I went with 100k front/110k center/50k rear. So far I ran it down the street a couple times but it's too dark to tell anything. The center diff is like 95% 100k and 5% 500k or something like that. Didn't get too scientific with it. I couldn't tell how bad the ballooning was going straight but I was near it while cornering fast and the inside tire didn't balloon nearly as much. More testing tomorrow if it doesn't rain again
 
I am back to 7/10/3 and loving it! I Have my Turing radius back and ballooning not too bad on 5s. I used to race truggy and I prefer the handling characteristics of this set up.
 

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I am back to 7/10/3 and loving it! I Have my Turing radius back and ballooning not too bad on 5s. I used to race truggy and I prefer the handling characteristics of this set up.
I thought having a higher viscosity on the front diff increases on-power steering
 
I thought having a higher viscosity on the front diff increases on-power steering

My understanding is that the higher the viscosity of the oil used in the front diff it decreases the ability to turn at speed, causes understeer but increases acceleration out of a corner?
 
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My understanding is that the higher the viscosity of the oil used in the front diff decreases the ability to turn at speed, causes understeer but increases acceleration out of a corner?
I see. Well I changed my front diff to 50k like I have the rear and still have like 120wt in the center (used a calculator)

Ok I don't know what's going on but when I use my brakes the center diff makes a lot of noise. I've rebuilt it and put thicker oil (220k) and it's still making noise if I roll it forwards or backwards while holding both front or rear wheels to simulate diffing out.

Actually it sounds like the noise is coming from the front diff out drive going to the center diff.
 
I fixed the problem. The diff housing was stripped where the housing cover bolts in bc I had over tightened the bolts. What happened was bc they were stripped out the cover wasn't pushing my diff all the way back to the pinion and it would just slip. Luckily I had a spare diff housing on hand and fixed the issue.

I wish I could out and test it out again but it's going to rain all week and I don't like to do the maintenance after playing in the water. I had enough of that with my old Rustler VXL.

Anyway back to diff oils.. There was pretty much no discernible difference between the stock 10k and 110k oil when I ran it. It still ballooned like crazy, it still required basically the same amount of throttle to make it wheelie, and the braking performance was the same. Hopefully I'll be able to test it with the ~220k I have in the center diff soon and with good results
 
Finally got to test it out today. Feels like I have a slipper clutch instead of a center diff. Quite a bit easier to wheelie but I have a t-boneracing wheelie bar on order. So I pretty much have to just roll on the throttle like I have to with my stampede 4x4. It still balloons a little to the front but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. It doesn't unload as badly, especially when turning. The inside wheel no longer unloads!

Acceleration is quicker even though I can't just mash on the throttle like before when it was bone stock. The Proline Mashers actually grip and they grip much much better than the stock tires. They also balloon more but overall the performance gain was well worth it.

My turning radius has suffered a little probably again due to the increased traction; instead of just turning in, over-steering through and then accelerating out (more of a point-and-shoot driving style) I now have to steer as much with the throttle as I do with the wheel. Once again this is on 50k/220k/50k setup.
 
Currently I run a 18t pinion and the kraton blx is a blast to drive on 6s power. Temps have not been bad at all thus far, partially due to the 32 degree temps. But the fan on the blx 185 esc is great, and if needed i will install a motor fan for warm weather runnin.
 
Currently I run a 18t pinion and the kraton blx is a blast to drive on 6s power. Temps have not been bad at all thus far said:
18T??? Geez. I was thinking of swapping to the 14T from the stock 12T bc my ESC is cold but my motor and batteries warm after running. I do have the castle creations fan on the motor too
 
I just switched my center diff to 100k weight and absolutely love it. The front and rear are stock weight, but i will be swapping out those with perhaps 50k front and back

Ahhh cool man. Yeah I definitely will get a motor fan because I always like to run the bigg pinions in my rigs. Driving with speed is my favorite style of driving, of course being aware of the terrain and adjusting throttle to avoid catastrophic rigg failure lol
 
I just switched my center diff to 100k weight and absolutely love it. The front and rear are stock weight, but i will be swapping out those with perhaps 50k front and back

What kind of surface do you run on? I remember running the 16T pinion on my typhon from the 14T stock pinion and the motor was 180F after the batteries Died while running in the grass but the tires were super bald and the fan was off. The wire came undone at the receiver.. It's a pain setting the gear mesh too

But yea I love the 50k front and rear. I just need a stronger servo
 
What kind of surface do you run on? I remember running the 16T pinion on my typhon from the 14T stock pinion and the motor was 180F after the batteries Died while running in the grass but the tires were super bald and the fan was off. The wire came undone at the receiver.. It's a pain setting the gear mesh too

But yea I love the 50k front and rear. I just need a stronger servo
As of right now i have been running on tarmac, frozen grass, rocks, snow and hard dirt. So I have not been thru thick grass or mud yet. But probably wont do too much of either of those terrains when they are available. I imagine any high resistance terrain will cause excess heat to form, so i tend to take it easy in such environments .
 
As of right now i have been running on tarmac, frozen grass, rocks, snow and hard dirt. So I have not been thru thick grass or mud yet. But probably wont do too much of either of those terrains when they are available. I imagine any high resistance terrain will cause excess heat to form, so i tend to take it easy in such environments .
Do you think Arrma purposely undergears the Kraton with the 12T pinion? And do you think the 14T is suitable in all environments considering how much power the Kraton can put out?
 
Diff oil definitely, and have heavier weight oil in the front to prevent ballooning of the front tires, and more even power transfer to all wheels.

On my setup I got F 30K, C 60K, and rear, 10K. And apply significant amount of petroleum jelly or heavy grease (prefer the jelly because is very sticky), on the inner wall edges of the diff housing (not the cup), to prevent water from zipping through, and around the inner edges of the diff bearing runners, where they rest on in the housing. Soon will replace center oil to 100k, which will work better for my setup.

Gearing is your driving style and battery of choice, and if the current ESC and motor temps will allow it.
 
I had to replace the rear input shaft gear . It got destroyed probably because of my heavy finger and a max amps 6s batt. I put a new one in and used 100k diff oil. I tested it and it seems to be fine. Is that ok?

I had to replace the rear input shaft gear . It got destroyed probably because of my heavy finger and a max amps 6s batt. I put a new one in and used 100k diff oil. I tested it and it seems to be fine. Is that ok?
And im going to stick with my 4s battery until i want to show off so less chance of breaking something again
 
Its not really the oil number, but combination as a whole. I would go 20k in rear, 100k center, and 50k up front.

Remember power will go to where there is less resistance. So lighter fluid, thats where it goes. Its almost as running lock diff, will feel like a rear wheel drive car and kill the 4wd advantage.

** Exactly about the 4S, I run 4 and 5 (esc set to nimh) and tracking w my watch chrono, and if you pay good attention you will know, because as the battery wears out it will be more difficult for the truck to wheelie and go over jumps, and quick blips on the throttle will not be as responsive.

I got a 6s, and only once in a while to show off as you say or when going jumping as it as much more torque, but I try not to do long high speed passes because it will destroy the tires. Also, the tear and wear on the pinion is almost immediate, small metal shavings can be seen in the chassis regardless how well the pinion to spur was set up.

I don't know why they don't have a plastic spur gear option. On my 5B its metal pinionto plastic spur and I have bashed that poor baja on a 30.5cc engine and still no broken parts. On my on-road 1/8th nitro setup is metal to plastic and unless the engine moves, the spur gears hold fine, but well its just some silly forum venting... lol
 
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