Kraton Arrma kraton making clicking grinding noise

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

HunterT

Member
Messages
54
Reaction score
19
Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
under hard braking on cement kraton will make a grinding noise just under hard braking sounds plastic but I’m not sure any suggestions??
 
i have a similar issue I thought it started when my wheel hex got a bit rounded and one wheel got rounded out inside. The hex wasnt completely rounded so i put another wheel on it and keep it in place. Still have the noise though so im confused if its somethibg else.:(:(:(:(:(:(:(
 
The problem on Myen was the main input gear (10 tooth)in front diff housing, installed new one and shimmed it.. good to go!
 
Hi
I had really bad grinding noise from my Kraton under hard acceleration and braking last weekend. I knew my diffs were in good shape because I only rebuilt and shimmed them and also changed bearings a few weeks ago. Took out the diffs and checked them and they were 100% perfect. Crown gear and input gear were also ok. Only other thing I could think of was the crown gear on the diff not meshing correctly with the input gear in the housing.

What I did was put a 0.050" thick washer between the crown gear and the bearing on the diff output drive. I added a few pics before during and after.
DSC_1628.JPG
DSC_1631.JPG
DSC_1630.JPG
DSC_1629.JPG


Did the same with the rear diff.
Tried a couple of test runs and drive train now seems solid. Not a hint of grinding. My only concern is that the washer may put additional stresses on the diff bearings and or the input drive bearing but time will tell.
 
The problem on Myen was the main input gear (10 tooth)in front diff housing, installed new one and shimmed it.. good to go!
How to shim the main input gear?!
I just shimmed all my 3 diffs
 
Hi
I had really bad grinding noise from my Kraton under hard acceleration and braking last weekend. I knew my diffs were in good shape because I only rebuilt and shimmed them and also changed bearings a few weeks ago. Took out the diffs and checked them and they were 100% perfect. Crown gear and input gear were also ok. Only other thing I could think of was the crown gear on the diff not meshing correctly with the input gear in the housing.

What I did was put a 0.050" thick washer between the crown gear and the bearing on the diff output drive. I added a few pics before during and after.View attachment 15179 View attachment 15180View attachment 15181 View attachment 15182

Did the same with the rear diff.
Tried a couple of test runs and drive train now seems solid. Not a hint of grinding. My only concern is that the washer may put additional stresses on the diff bearings and or the input drive bearing but time will tell.


I’ve been having a similar issue. Replaced both the ring and pinion gears on the front and back. Shimmed the diffs and the outside of the bearing in the diff cup. It only grinds when I go from reverse to forward quickly. I’m sure eventually it’ll start to grind when I brake also. I’ve been through everything numerous times and the issues keeps coming back. Sounds like it’s the rear that is doing it. I’ll try and shim the pinion and the inside of the bearing and hopefully that helps. Another thing I just noticed is that when jumping and I hit the throttle the front end isn’t coming up. I have the diff fluids at 30rear-100center-60front. Usually that’s perfect for me. If anyone has any solutions or different things I could try that would be awesome. Thanks!
 
I also experienced the 'grinding' noise during breaking. I took apart the front diff to see what was going on. I inspected the gears and fluid since I had it ripped it apart and I was expecting to find missing teeth on the sun, planetary or input gears. Interestingly enough I was still getting seemingly full power to the front wheels. Turned out the front input drive cup was loose. I tightened it down with a generous amount of permatex red. Those drive cups are under a lot of torque and they need red threadlocker on the grub screw just like the pinion and motor mount screws.
 
Red lock on
I also experienced the 'grinding' noise during breaking. I took apart the front diff to see what was going on. I inspected the gears and fluid since I had it ripped it apart and I was expecting to find missing teeth on the sun, planetary or input gears. Interestingly enough I was still getting seemingly full power to the front wheels. Turned out the front input drive cup was loose. I tightened it down with a generous amount of permatex red. Those drive cups are under a lot of torque and they need red threadlocker on the grub screw just like the pinion and motor mount screws.
"Red threadlocker on the grub screw just like the pinion and motor mount screws." - TBH I think blue thread lock is what I'd use. Unless you don't plan on disassembling again or have a better technique than me to loosen red locked screws/grubskrews.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top