Kraton Arrma Kraton v4 stalling

[zelius92]

Hi guys, I’m new to the group. Just bought my first arrma in the form of the new Kraton and I love the thing. I need to ask some advice regarding one problem though, the car seems to cut out occasionally. Not sure if it’s a transmitter, receiver issue because the steering still works. Or if it’s the battery cut off. It’s weird though because it still goes strong once it starts off again. And I haven’t been playing for more than 5 mins straight. It’ll stop for a good 1 to 3 seconds and when I hit the throttle, it just goes again.

Is there something wrong with my ESC?

 

[Jimbobjr]

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is your battery fully charged and in good condition? If yes then you may want to start checking into your receiver and esc setup. Thumb through the manual and go through the setup part of the esc. Hopefully something’s s just out of sorts. Mine all act a little wonky from time to time but it is almost always something I have over looked.

 

[crimsonfancy]

How far away is the truck when the stutter happens? There have been some concerns with the receiver but just a few. Chances are it's not the receiver but worth considering and if it's new, I'd still call HH to see what they say.
I only have one V4 and no trouble at all with my tx and rx but I'm still concerned. What batteries and c-rating?

Welcome to the forum! You'll find your answer here for sure. ?

 

[Lazy Bushman]

you could try resetting the ESC I guess

 

[Sledgehog]

Also might wanna pick up an IR gun to check your temps. (They are around $11 on ebay or amazon) But as others have asked, what battery is being used, most important being c-rating.

 

[Notorious J]

Welcome to the forum @zelius92. As stated by the others, a little more detail on battery size and condition of charge, would help to narrow it down. It's likely only a small adjustment needed in either the transmitter or the esc. Restoring the radio and esc settings to the factory defaults would be your best bet, and make sure the battery/batteries are fully charged before trying anything again.

 

[zelius92]

Welcome to the forum @zelius92. As stated by the others, a little more detail on battery size and condition of charge, would help to narrow it down. It's likely only a small adjustment needed in either the transmitter or the esc. Restoring the radio and esc settings to the factory defaults would be your best bet, and make sure the battery/batteries are fully charged before trying anything again.

Thanks, I will definitely do that. All the batteries are just about 3 months old and fully charged.

 

[zelius92]

Thanks for all the reply guys. Awesome to have so much help! I’ll definitely get an IR gun. The truck at the furthest is like 30 ft away and even at close proximity it still stalls. Bought a voltage lipo tester and I tested both 3S packs and their at 9.3 volts give or take, each. Batteries are 3 months old. 50C . Their power hobby brand which aren’t the best but they work great with my rc boats.

 

[Primarrma]

Can you describe the situation when it happens, is it when you're stopped and go to take off, or while it's running? Have you lost steering or only throttle? Is the battery loop cable connected completely?

 

[cootertwo]

batteries...... 9.3 3S ???

 

[nino]

Those are some VERY empty packs!

 

[olds97_lss]

Those are some VERY empty packs!

Yeah, 3.1V per cell? At that voltage, I wouldn't expect them to perform well at all and likely the LVC is kicking in and stopping you.

 

[zelius92]

batteries...... 9.3 3S ???

Sorry, not too familiar. Can you explain further? I just figured full charge on a 3S pack would be 11.1 volts so I thought 9.3 volts would still be quite a bit. I guess I’m wrong. More info would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to learn.
These are the barriers

 

[olds97_lss]

Sorry, not too familiar. Can you explain further? I just figured full charge on a 3S pack would be 11.1 volts so I thought 9.3 volts would still be quite a bit. I guess I’m wrong. More info would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to learn.
These are the barriers

The usable voltage from a typical lipo is 3.2V-4.2V. If your lipo is at 3.1V per cell, then it's "empty" for all intents and purposes. Most of us try to set the LVC (low voltage cutoff) in the esc to 3.4V, which means it stops driving the truck when the average voltage for all 6 cells drops to 3.4V. Some will be less, some will be more, but the average is all the esc can figure out. Then you don't run the risk of running them too low and damaging the packs.

The fact that all the esc can do is figure the average, most of us play it safe and set it so it stops and hits LVC at 3.4V.

I know when any of my packs get close to the end voltage of 3.4V, they drop performance quite a bit anyway and lose a lot of their punch.
Full:
3S - 3 cells at 4.2V = 12.6V
6S - 6 cells at 4.2V = 25.2V

Empty/LVC limit:
3S - 3 cells at 3.4V = 10.2V total
6S - 6 cells at 3.4V = 20.4V total

This is where we set the LVC to kick in if possible. Some go even higher to 3.5V average.

There's also storage voltage, typically 3.8V-3.83V I believe. You don't want to store lipo's full or empty, but at "storage voltage" which is about 50% full.

Storage:
3S - 3 cells at 3.8V = 11.4V total
6S - 6 cells at 3.8V = 22.8V total

Storing them full makes them build up internal resistance (IR). IR is bad, as it goes up, the capability of current flow goes down, capacity goes down.

They self discharge some, so storing them at 3.1V per cell runs the risk of them dropping below 2.9V as they sit which is hard on them. Most chargers won't even try to charge them if they drop too low. When a pack has a cell that drops too low, this is typically called "dropped a cell" and the pack is no longer usable.

 

[Primarrma]

If you have a dodgy battery or cell the lvc will come on while you're driving. It happened to me the other week. It's really annoying, one way to tell if you have a bad battery is too fully balance charge your lipo, run your car for ten or fifteen minutes then check the voltage of the individual cells, if one or two of the cells is way lower than the others it usually means you have a bad cell or two, all three could be bad also.

 

[nino]

Go charge your batteries and go bash.
When you're done, find "storage charge" on your charger and run that. Then store them somewhere safe and non flammable

 

[zelius92]

The usable voltage from a typical lipo is 3.2V-4.2V. If your lipo is at 3.1V per cell, then it's "empty" for all intents and purposes. Most of us try to set the LVC (low voltage cutoff) in the esc to 3.4V, which means it stops driving the truck when the average voltage for all 6 cells drops to 3.4V. Some will be less, some will be more, but the average is all the esc can figure out. Then you don't run the risk of running them too low and damaging the packs.

The fact that all the esc can do is figure the average, most of us play it safe and set it so it stops and hits LVC at 3.4V.

I know when any of my packs get close to the end voltage of 3.4V, they drop performance quite a bit anyway and lose a lot of their punch.
Full:
3S - 3 cells at 4.2V = 12.6V
6S - 6 cells at 4.2V = 25.2V

Empty/LVC limit:
3S - 3 cells at 3.4V = 10.2V total
6S - 6 cells at 3.4V = 20.4V total

This is where we set the LVC to kick in if possible. Some go even higher to 3.5V average.

There's also storage voltage, typically 3.8V-3.83V I believe. You don't want to store lipo's full or empty, but at "storage voltage" which is about 50% full.

Storage:
3S - 3 cells at 3.8V = 11.4V total
6S - 6 cells at 3.8V = 22.8V total

Storing them full makes them build up internal resistance (IR). IR is bad, as it goes up, the capability of current flow goes down, capacity goes down.

They self discharge some, so storing them at 3.1V per cell runs the risk of them dropping below 2.9V as they sit which is hard on them. Most chargers won't even try to charge them if they drop too low. When a pack has a cell that drops too low, this is typically called "dropped a cell" and the pack is no longer usable.

Thank you!