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I've been waiting for this for an eternity. I had to rebuild the diffs on my RTR Kraton 5 or 6 times because of cracked cases. I dropped in the GPM cases just as a temporary fix. Since they are all aluminum, they would eventually wear out when the bearing or output cup ruins the metal they come into contact with. So when Arrma's case finally showed up, I got them for all 3 rigs. Just like the 6s cup, it's by far the best upgrade option. I threw them in my EXB first so I took a few shots of it.
I can't tell whether the aluminum is 6061 or 7075 thanks to the anodizing but neither can Arrma so who cares
It's still very high quality regardless but the star of the show is the harden steel cover. This is not some nasty pot metal, but a fully billet machined piece. Arrma can definitely do stuff like this if they want to.
The stock diff is somewhat coated in 100k front & rear. This is why you see so many blown tires & ridiculous diffing out to one side while turning & during airborne auto-correct attempts.
It's a good idea to remove the old fluid even if you're replacing with the same stuff. I used to be crazy anal about this when I buggy raced. I would use a car parts solvent & a toothbrush. But this is a basher, so a microfiber towel can remove most of it without getting any of it's material on the parts.
Also you want to rub some of the old diff fluid on the new seal (middle) to lube it before putting it on the cup. You can reuse the old seal (left} if it's in good shape. The right is the new seal w/o any lube.
I use 1 million cst, front & rear. It really keeps the car straight when launching & keeps the tires on the ground when turning under power. It's a bit of a pain to get out the bottle so I use a large flathead screwdriver.
The cup screws are m3.5 -3.5mm- (left) compared to a m4 (right). SO DON'T LOSE THEM. Do whatever you can to keep track of them. Magnetize bits, parts holders, bear-grip them while handling, pray, ANYTHING Trying to find a 10.9 or 12.9 m3.5x16 countersunk hex is not something I would wish on anyone.
The end result is beautiful, almost too good to be true - Now I just have to do it for the other two . . .
I can't tell whether the aluminum is 6061 or 7075 thanks to the anodizing but neither can Arrma so who cares
It's still very high quality regardless but the star of the show is the harden steel cover. This is not some nasty pot metal, but a fully billet machined piece. Arrma can definitely do stuff like this if they want to.The stock diff is somewhat coated in 100k front & rear. This is why you see so many blown tires & ridiculous diffing out to one side while turning & during airborne auto-correct attempts.
It's a good idea to remove the old fluid even if you're replacing with the same stuff. I used to be crazy anal about this when I buggy raced. I would use a car parts solvent & a toothbrush. But this is a basher, so a microfiber towel can remove most of it without getting any of it's material on the parts.
Also you want to rub some of the old diff fluid on the new seal (middle) to lube it before putting it on the cup. You can reuse the old seal (left} if it's in good shape. The right is the new seal w/o any lube.
I use 1 million cst, front & rear. It really keeps the car straight when launching & keeps the tires on the ground when turning under power. It's a bit of a pain to get out the bottle so I use a large flathead screwdriver.
The cup screws are m3.5 -3.5mm- (left) compared to a m4 (right). SO DON'T LOSE THEM. Do whatever you can to keep track of them. Magnetize bits, parts holders, bear-grip them while handling, pray
, ANYTHING Trying to find a 10.9 or 12.9 m3.5x16 countersunk hex is not something I would wish on anyone.The end result is beautiful, almost too good to be true - Now I just have to do it for the other two . . .
.
