Mojave Arrma Mojave Exb Setup Questions

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Lbzcody

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What's up, ive been racing 10th scale rc for awhile and decided to follow some freinds and start getting into the Mojave's. I just bought an Exb and everything has been working well. We have a small figure eight style dirt/grass track that we mess around on. I went with the castle system running 2650kv motor on 6s. It's wicked fast but being a 10th scale racer has caused me to want to make a few changes to help handling. After the third session I realized the diff cup on the rear diff was destroyed. It looks like possibly the rear droop is too much or the rear up travel is too much. Arrma unfortunately doesn't offer set up sheets showing any type of measurements for shock droop or rear arm droop, or shock shaft length adjustment. That's where I'm hoping anyone who has a stock exb could measure the the shock up travel length (length of the shock shaft) and the droop measurement (upper shock mount to lower shock pin..center to center). If that's possible it would really help me out. Ive already went thro a set of out drives, the first time I chalked it up to a freak thing, but after it happen again on the same side, I know something is off. So I've replaced it again, and the stock measurements would help take a lot of the guess work out of it. I've already done the easy step of maxing the suspension out and checking for clearance. It looks to be the same on both sides.

Second question. After watching a few videos on the exb diffs and the function of the limited slip plates, has anyone tried loose dirt testing with different plate orientations. From what I understand you can tune the lsd with the arrangement of the plates. This info would be helpfull, as im sure i will learn this in my diff testing.

My current setup on 6s seems to lack rear traction in the loose parts of the track. When you accelerate out of these loose turns I would like more power to bleed to the front and limit rear wheel spin. Any diff testing info and fluid set up info would be helpful.

Does arrma offer factory set up sheets like TLR or AE

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Welcome to AF.
I know many with the LSD diffs stay with close to stock weight oil.
Yeah there are 2 stages of setup for the LSD plate spacing/placement.
Droop and setup is subjective. I probably have 3 mm above full extention Droop. Running 8s gear is rather heavy. Maybe spring changes could help. All rigs vary in weight. So dialing it in one way for me may not work for you. Depends how and where you bash. I don't send my 6s RTR Mojo. I find it fine suspension wise. Did add some rear shock preload more than the front. Trial and error. Too stiff and tall and it rolls. I feel it is top heavy, because of the body.

 
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I'm more looking for the max droop setting. I think the truck is bottoming out at the dog bone is pinched against the diff outdrive. Because the way it chews it up is at an angle. So what I was looking for was some sort of spec. Max shock travel is xXxX mill. And shock shaft length is xxx mil stock.
 
That 2650 Kv seems high for this rig. I’m not a racer though…..what pinion do you run with that motor?

Droop,……no setup sheets and I’m too lazy to measure it. That being said I’ve changed it from stock so it wouldn’t matter. I’d say set your droop enough that the shocks are pushing down instead of being pulled apart by spring tension.

Ive had bad luck with the rear diff on the Mojave EXB. ….until now, I’m currently running the rear LSD in the minimum slip configuration, extra shim on both planetaries, 20k oil and a Hot Racing diff cup. 200k in the center and 50k front.

Bump stops on the shock shafts too.

cheers,
kev
 
That 2650 Kv seems high for this rig. I’m not a racer though…..what pinion do you run with that motor?

Droop,……no setup sheets and I’m too lazy to measure it. That being said I’ve changed it from stock so it wouldn’t matter. I’d say set your droop enough that the shocks are pushing down instead of being pulled apart by spring tension.

Ive had bad luck with the rear diff on the Mojave EXB. ….until now, I’m currently running the rear LSD in the minimum slip configuration, extra shim on both planetaries, 20k oil and a Hot Racing diff cup. 200k in the center and 50k front.

Bump stops on the shock shafts too.

cheers,
kev
What where the problems you had with the diff. I've seen upgraded out drives, but to me, it seems like whatever is causing it...will ruin the out drives regardless. I'm running the stock pinion I think its 17t.
That 2650 Kv seems high for this rig. I’m not a racer though…..what pinion do you run with that motor?

Droop,……no setup sheets and I’m too lazy to measure it. That being said I’ve changed it from stock so it wouldn’t matter. I’d say set your droop enough that the shocks are pushing down instead of being pulled apart by spring tension.

Ive had bad luck with the rear diff on the Mojave EXB. ….until now, I’m currently running the rear LSD in the minimum slip configuration, extra shim on both planetaries, 20k oil and a Hot Racing diff cup. 200k in the center and 50k front.

Bump stops on the shock shafts too.

cheers,
kev
What where the problems you had with the diff. I've seen upgraded out drives, but to me, it seems like whatever is causing it...will ruin the out drives regardless. I'm running the stock pinion I think its 17t. Basically what I'm thinking is if you max out the suspension going up the dog bone hits the diff outdrive. And after 45mins it beats the he'll out of it
 

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I haven’t done the math so I could be wrong……17t pinion on the 2650kv seems overgeared to me.
My planetary gears in the rear were disintegrating. Hopefully the shims I put in will fix this.
 
I haven’t done the math so I could be wrong……17t pinion on the 2650kv seems overgeared to me.
My planetary gears in the rear were disintegrating. Hopefully the shims I put in will fix this.
Without knowing the spur size I'd agree - stock Mojave 6s is 2050kv w/ 16T
 
I run bigger tires, it really makes the truck more capable in nearly all off road situations. Best mod by far. But, to realize the maximum return on the bigger rubber, suspension changes and drivetrain changes are in order. I run slightly heavier shock oil, 710cst vs the stock 550cst. Better control over the heavier unsprung weight. Second, I set my diffs up as follows. Rear 30k 3x LSD config, center 250k 3x LSD, and front 30k 1x LSD. This is revised from 30k 3x, 250k 3x, 50k 3x LSD. I wanted the truck to be easier to drift, and this did the trick. Very happy with the setup.

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2650kv is a bit high for this truck. I run the 2200kv castle motor, and even that is a tad high. With the bigger tires I run a 13t pinion, and the motor gets pretty warm.
 
I've destroyed a few cups. Some hard landings, pushing arms up too high, pulling out dog bones, getting wedged and destroying the cups. M2C cups and stock.

Wish I could help with anything else! Lol.

Just from my experience and what I like, I'd leave the stock fluids. Mine rolls often at 30, 50, 30. I also added the stiffest springs Arrma offers for the Mojave :)
 
What's up, ive been racing 10th scale rc for awhile and decided to follow some freinds and start getting into the Mojave's. I just bought an Exb and everything has been working well. We have a small figure eight style dirt/grass track that we mess around on. I went with the castle system running 2650kv motor on 6s. It's wicked fast but being a 10th scale racer has caused me to want to make a few changes to help handling. After the third session I realized the diff cup on the rear diff was destroyed. It looks like possibly the rear droop is too much or the rear up travel is too much. Arrma unfortunately doesn't offer set up sheets showing any type of measurements for shock droop or rear arm droop, or shock shaft length adjustment. That's where I'm hoping anyone who has a stock exb could measure the the shock up travel length (length of the shock shaft) and the droop measurement (upper shock mount to lower shock pin..center to center). If that's possible it would really help me out. Ive already went thro a set of out drives, the first time I chalked it up to a freak thing, but after it happen again on the same side, I know something is off. So I've replaced it again, and the stock measurements would help take a lot of the guess work out of it. I've already done the easy step of maxing the suspension out and checking for clearance. It looks to be the same on both sides.

Second question. After watching a few videos on the exb diffs and the function of the limited slip plates, has anyone tried loose dirt testing with different plate orientations. From what I understand you can tune the lsd with the arrangement of the plates. This info would be helpfull, as im sure i will learn this in my diff testing.

My current setup on 6s seems to lack rear traction in the loose parts of the track. When you accelerate out of these loose turns I would like more power to bleed to the front and limit rear wheel spin. Any diff testing info and fluid set up info would be helpful.

Does arrma offer factory set up sheets like TLR or AE

View attachment 171170
I can't help you with the setup as I'm learning mine..

But you can still use the TA blank setup sheet for this model as well.. Here is the link..

I use it for most of my RC model and adjust it accordingly...
 
Here is a little help. Set the drop screws to where your Aarms run straight and level. Next, get some nitro fuel line and cut some small sections off and add to the bottom of your shock shaft to help limit the truck from bottoming out and causing diff cup/output cup damage. Another nice trick is, cut another section of fuel line and put it IN the diff cup and between the cup and the dog bone. This will limit the dog bone from damaging the cups and will help with retaining your rear dog bones. It’s a very cheap fix and when they get damaged, easy and cheap to add again!!;

Keep on bashing!!
 
Here is a little help. Set the drop screws to where your Aarms run straight and level. Next, get some nitro fuel line and cut some small sections off and add to the bottom of your shock shaft to help limit the truck from bottoming out and causing diff cup/output cup damage. Another nice trick is, cut another section of fuel line and put it IN the diff cup and between the cup and the dog bone. This will limit the dog bone from damaging the cups and will help with retaining your rear dog bones. It’s a very cheap fix and when they get damaged, easy and cheap to add again!!;

Keep on bashing!!
Thanks for the info, and the reply to the thread. I recently bought a full set of driveshafts from a eBay retailer that included front cvds and all the dogbones in the car. So currently I've been running the front cvds in the rear of my truck and I set the droop to where the m2c video showed. I haven't had very much run time with the truck to see how the cvds will work out. But it's good to know that I won't have to search around in the grass for 3hrs if I lose one. I also limited the up travel by 2mm so that should help with bottoming out on the diff cup
 
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