Arrma senton brushed 4x4 questions

[Velodromed]

It seems my pinion with sleeve slipped down, luckily not off and just barley nicked the spur gear.

The 5mm I also got I missed it was a 32 pitch -_- but I have an extra 91T as well in case this didn't work. But it drove amazing alot more torque can't even do donuts on loose dirt without flipping now. The 48pitch 15T pinion gear holds now. Put thread locker on it just the tiniest possible amount so it held and I could still break it off. Just hit the two jumps a few times at home and it's running good. Will probably get new tape for sealing the spur because the 3m is a little tough to get the motor mount case back in and off but not to bad. Was very clean inside compared to last time with dirt in it from one run.
I'm just going to set it aside for now and probably go to the local rc store and get a new pinion maybe not a 15T so I can actually turn and not flip on stock wheels.
Very fun though, it is never really hot on the motor. I can. Touch it and it feels like warm 30&45 mins on 2s, doubt I'll go 3s unless I have a motor fan installed first.

Appreciate everyone's tips, I do try to clean it more now than when I first got it. Have new front suspension ordered and screws just because most are rusted and stripped from last owners sadly.

But will continue to look for a better pinion setup. Have new 14mm to 12mm wheel adapter as well to try and find more wheel setups just from the local shop. Will have to order some MTs

That is very good that you have it running. At some point you really need to move gearing to .08 mod (metric version of 32dp). It’ll hold up much better and that’s how they come stock, so the parts are easy to get. I like jennysrc.com for stock parts at a good price. I like to use the soft side of Velcro to seal off the spur case. It doesn’t interfere so much with clipping in the motor module and keeps a lot of the crud out.

 

[SlowKing]

That is very good that you have it running. At some point you really need to move gearing to .08 mod (metric version of 32dp). It’ll hold up much better and that’s how they come stock, so the parts are easy to get. I like jennysrc.com for stock parts at a good price. I like to use the soft side of Velcro to seal off the spur case. It doesn’t interfere so much with clipping in the motor module and keeps a lot of the crud out.

I will definitely try the Velcro out for sure!

The spur I'm using is a ARA311034 says it's a 0.8 mod. Runs nice seats well.

Just refilled my oil on stock shocks. Very confused one why the all four are different sizes now .... Anyone care to explain what I did wrong

 

[Velodromed]

I will definitely try the Velcro out for sure!

The spur I'm using is a ARA311034 says it's a 0.8 mod. Runs nice seats well.

Just refilled my oil on stock shocks. Very confused one why the all four are different sizes now .... Anyone care to explain what I did wrong

Ok that is the right spur. I just got confused by what you wrote:
“The 5mm I also got I missed it was a 32 pitch -_- but I have an extra 91T as well in case this didn't work. But it drove amazing alot more torque can't even do donuts on loose dirt without flipping now. The 48pitch 15T pinion gear holds now.”

32dp, or pitch, is same as .08mod. Can’t mix it with 48dp, or pitch. The 91t spur is what the mega runs and is 48dp. So I thought you were mixing them.

If the little clips are all set right and you didn’t mix up the front/rear springs…then most likely you didn’t bleed the shocks right. I fill them 1/8th inch from the top with oil and gently move the piston up and down, while twisting it round, to get any trapped bubbles out. Then I move the position to the center of the shock, fill it a couple mm to the top with oil, put the cap on and slowly tighten 1/3rd way down. Then I move the piston slowly towards the top as I tighten it 2/3rds tight, then move the piston back to center slowly and tighten all the way.

It’s messy because some oil does over flow, but works for me. When I test moving the piston the full length of the shock, I make sure it moves freely, isn’t sucked up or down and also listen to make sure there’s no air trapped inside (it kinda gushes or squelches if it has air inside). If either occurs I repeat the process. There are some good videos on YouTube about the process also.

 

[SlowKing]

I fixed the shocks, thanks for that because it was driving me insane for a second lol.

Now my 15T gear just shredded the 57T lol plastic gears tho. Might need steel teeth?

I have a 92T replace meant but bearing and red spline shaft are fused to it can't get it out. So will have to wait till Monday for parts sadly. Just started it and did a speed run down the street and yeeeeeeeen -_____-

 

[Velodromed]

I fixed the shocks, thanks for that because it was driving me insane for a second lol.

Now my 15T gear just shredded the 57T lol plastic gears tho. Might need steel teeth?

I have a 92T replace meant but bearing and red spline shaft are fused to it can't get it out. So will have to wait till Monday for parts sadly. Just started it and did a speed run down the street and yeeeeeeeen -_____-View attachment 272159

OK I understand a bit better. First off, glad you got your shocks fixed. Took me a while to figure out how to do them right. As for your spur gear getting stripped out, the pinion being metal isn’t at fault. There are several reasons that could happen. I am most often see it when the motor mount gets bent. Even just a little bit of a bend can cause the spur gear to strip out. But it’s a pretty unique sort of damage to the spur when that happens and I don’t see it with yours.

Another main reason is poor mesh. To loose can strip it out pretty quick and too tight can strip it out a bit slower. Looking at yours I would say the mesh was way too loose. It’s only stripped out 1/3rd way down the teeth. Often this can be caused by the motor, not being tight enough in the mount, and when it shifts, it can get loser or tighter. Order a new spur and then reach out when you’re starting to work on setting the mesh. Also, you definitely want to check and make sure your motor mount is straight anyway. Remove it from the spur-case, put it on something completely flat then see if it rocks back and fourth. Test it on both sides.

The metal spur is only needed if you’re going to run 4S power. I have plastic spurs more than two year old that are still running strong on a couple of my 3S cars. On my two 4s builds I have metal spurs. On a 3s car, you really want to keep it as light as possible. It affects the durability as well as the handling quite a bit. The only metal parts I found that were good on the 3S cars (after much experimenting on 5 of them over 18 months) are hot racing or other brands metal diff yokes on the rear and the M2C motor mount and chassis brace. I even try to run lighter batteries, 5000 to 5200 MAH, 80c.

 

[SlowKing]

OK I understand a bit better. First off, glad you got your shocks fixed. Took me a while to figure out how to do them right. As for your spur gear getting stripped out, the pinion being metal isn’t at fault. There are several reasons that could happen. I am most often see it when the motor mount gets bent. Even just a little bit of a bend can cause the spur gear to strip out. But it’s a pretty unique sort of damage to the spur when that happens and I don’t see it with yours.

Another main reason is poor mesh. To loose can strip it out pretty quick and too tight can strip it out a bit slower. Looking at yours I would say the mesh was way too loose. It’s only stripped out 1/3rd way down the teeth. Often this can be caused by the motor, not being tight enough in the mount, and when it shifts, it can get loser or tighter. Order a new spur and then reach out when you’re starting to work on setting the mesh. Also, you definitely want to check and make sure your motor mount is straight anyway. Remove it from the spur-case, put it on something completely flat then see if it rocks back and fourth. Test it on both sides.

The metal spur is only needed if you’re going to run 4S power. I have plastic spurs more than two year old that are still running strong on a couple of my 3S cars. On my two 4s builds I have metal spurs. On a 3s car, you really want to keep it as light as possible. It affects the durability as well as the handling quite a bit. The only metal parts I found that were good on the 3S cars (after much experimenting on 5 of them over 18 months) are hot racing or other brands metal diff yokes on the rear and the M2C motor mount and chassis brace. I even try to run lighter batteries, 5000 to 5200 MAH, 80c.

I just replaced the gear with a new 57T now running ing a 19T instead of a 15. Locktight more applied. Even had the hobby store guy do it for me lmao was embarrassing definitely lost my man card today.

Another note it runs great I just launched it off of a speed bump a few times and ran around parking lot runs great. Thinking about getting the bearing to hold the driveshaft more center less wobble since the brushed version doesn't come with one.

Let's hope she runs longer than a day

 

[Velodromed]

I just replaced the gear with a new 57T now running ing a 19T instead of a 15. Locktight more applied. Even had the hobby store guy do it for me lmao was embarrassing definitely lost my man card today.

Another note it runs great I just launched it off of a speed bump a few times and ran around parking lot runs great. Thinking about getting the bearing to hold the driveshaft more center less wobble since the brushed version doesn't come with one.

Let's hope she runs longer than a day

Are you watching motor heat with that 19 tooth pinion!?! if not, make sure you get a small temp gun to keep with you. You really don’t want the motor to get much hotter than 150f.

wait, I forgot you have a senton. If you’re running the stock tires than the 19t should be fine. It’s when you’re running a 3S car with monster truck tires that you have to be careful with anything over 16t.

Couple of secrets with regards to loctite. Always clean the grub screw, or any screw that you’re using Loctite on, with alcohol or brake cleaner. I have a good luck just using alcohol. The grub screws are easy to clean and I use a Q-tip soaked in alcohol to clean out the hole. I like 243 blue Loctite, it is oil resistant and I have found that it holds better. Always let it cure for at least 24 hours before running.

As for the grub, screw itself, for 3S pinions I prefer 12.9 tool steel, 5mm long flat tip grub screws. Since they are longer and stronger metal, it’s harder to strip the hex out. With the flat tip, it has more purchase on the flat part of the motor shaft. Since I started doing all this over a year ago, I have not had one come loose or strip the hex out. When it’s time to loosen a screw secured with Loctite, the best thing to do is apply heat first.

 

[SlowKing]

So I am back again fellas. The motor is what's faulty I think. After only running the battery once a day since I got the motor (been outta town) I don't play with it alot. But yesterday the shaft of the spm1400 4000kv brushless motor wobbled to death. Still runs and goes forward reverse but wobbles and has chewed my 57t apart yet again. I think maybe these motors magnets fall easily and maybe not glued properly or what?

My biggest question is what brushless system would people recommend for the senton 4x4 running spectrum Esc 120amp. I like the spectrum motor until it breaks for motor failure. But now thinking of going hobbywing? If they're good I'm not to sure. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Velodromed]

So I am back again fellas. The motor is what's faulty I think. After only running the battery once a day since I got the motor (been outta town) I don't play with it alot. But yesterday the shaft of the spm1400 4000kv brushless motor wobbled to death. Still runs and goes forward reverse but wobbles and has chewed my 57t apart yet again. I think maybe these motors magnets fall easily and maybe not glued properly or what?

My biggest question is what brushless system would people recommend for the senton 4x4 running spectrum Esc 120amp. I like the spectrum motor until it breaks for motor failure. But now thinking of going hobbywing? If they're good I'm not to sure. Any help is greatly appreciated

I have had good luck with rocket motors and have them in most of my cars.