Arrma senton brushed 4x4 questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SlowKing

Fairly New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
3
I recently bought a used 4x4 senton, it had a rusted out 550 motor 12T brushed so I decided to upgrade to brushless since friends told me it's way better so why not. I got a spectrum ecs 85amo with a 4000kv brushless motor I run on a 5000mah 2S lipo. Today the motor locked up and my 91T gear wobbled out of place the entire shaft on the gear sealed composite case.

My questions. Is there any sealed cases aluminum? Or that hold the gear/shaft in place better? I'm assuming my motors locked due to this or vise versa. One caused the failure of both...any help is greatly appreciated I'm very new to these hobby grade rc cars.
 
For sure! The 3S blx power module and slipper is the way to go if you upgrade to brushless. It's $ though.

FYI it is 32P vs the 48P on the mega, you will need a new pinion as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334651987125

Not sure if that's the new 6mm thicker plate but be aware there is a new thicker version. Old one was 5mm and did bend on bad landings.

If you do run the old mega slipper be sure to lube the plastic collar and keep the slipper pretty tight.

Skip the all aluminum housing and just seal the stock one (search the forum, tons of methods here).
 
10 bucks says the motor bearings are packed with dirt same with the slipper bearings and that is what caused your issues. It's a known problem with the motor module on this platform.
 
10 bucks says the motor bearings are packed with dirt same with the slipper bearings and that is what caused your issues. It's a known problem with the motor module on this platform.
The brushed probably but the brushless just locked up last night, spectrum SPMSX1400 4000KV MOTOR shafts bent and locked up. Running on original spur and gears.

Slipper was originally already rusted so probably why it wobbled out of place/ and if it caused motor to lock up I don't know.

I mostly need a smaller gear so I can make the motor housing 100% dirt free so I don't have to clean it every time I run it. This things maintenance is insane with how much dirt gets in the motor housing.

Hopefully @RCbuzz link to that spur and case will help me out in the future.

Also thinking after I get the warranty to replace my 4000kv brushless motor I may save it and go down to a 3500 so I don't shred gears and motors with my dirt issue.

Also I can't find anything about aluminum or even CF chassis for the senton. I want a new 4x4 chassis for racing and that has a 100% dirt/water resistant motor/gear/spur casing.
 
The brushed motors do not have bearings. Pull the bearings out of the motor I am willing to bet that they are toast either way.

Yes that is why I gave up on my 3s models I got sick of replacing the bearings in the motor and slipper every 3-4 runs. It is a highly known design flaw in this platform and you can only bandaid the problem, there is no way to completely fix it.

As far as I know without making your own spool there is no smaller spur gear that will allow you to seal the bottom of the motor module.

Stock chassis is the only option. Do to the bulkheads being integrated into the chassis there will never be an aftermarket chassis for this platform as the machine costs would make the chassis cost almost as much as the car.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334651987125

Not sure if that's the new 6mm thicker plate
That one is the original 5 mm plate. You can tell because the 6 mm plate sticks out from the case a little bit. Here is the 6 mm plate on horizon hobby’s website. You can also get it off of jennysrc.com, the 3S infraction, vendetta, and 4s Kraton/OutKast all have the new 6mm mount.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/aluminum-motor-mount-set/ARA311106.html

https://jennysrc.com/collections/kr...uminum-motor-mount-set-heatsink-fan-ara4408v2

B711B482-33AD-41A0-B042-C8D2A54DEAC8.png


1E68F9FC-A45F-494F-BD7B-2B815A1BC035.png
 
That one is the original 5 mm plate. You can tell because the 6 mm plate sticks out from the case a little bit. Here is the 6 mm plate on horizon hobby’s website. You can also get it off of jennysrc.com, the 3S infraction, vendetta, and 4s Kraton/OutKast all have the new 6mm mount.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/aluminum-motor-mount-set/ARA311106.html

https://jennysrc.com/collections/kr...uminum-motor-mount-set-heatsink-fan-ara4408v2

View attachment 271049

View attachment 271050
So this upgrades case will get rid of the tiny 1mm part on the bottom of the gear from being vulnerable and a hole there?

If so awesome il stick with this chassis but if not I may be looking for a new chassis. I live on 4 acres of dirt lol this cars been cleaned every two times I use it up till it locked up.

So hopefully this case is 100% sealed and I can clean it after 3-5 battery.

Just trying to make this chassis be dirt resistant or proof haha. And if anyone knows of a good sleaed bearings kit trying to find some to replace them all at once and maybe a kit that has multiple pinion gears for these cars so I can tweak speed/acceleration...
 
16740886102186220393989682762036.jpg
this is what I meant by wobbled the case hole bigger than factory. Now doesn't seat snug just falls out. Probably wobbled my old brushed motor.

If the 4000kv may be to much for the car. Would the 6mm plate help with the power?
 
Wow! That looks like that plastic sleeve I was mentioning got really hot and melted, could have been the bearing too but the MEGA slipper is not designed for much "slip" action.

4000kv should be just fine on 2S, on 3S you may want to pinion down as it may be a bit much for it.

The MEGA slipper I am using on one of my Granites is tightened down to the max (no space between spring). You can slide the center drive shaft on to one side of the slipper and grab the spur to see how tight it is. FYI that system is running a VXL 3s, been waiting for the Mega slipper to fry but it keeps going, I did lube the plastic collar though so I am sure that helps.
 
Last edited:
So this upgrades case will get rid of the tiny 1mm part on the bottom of the gear from being vulnerable and a hole there?

If so awesome il stick with this chassis but if not I may be looking for a new chassis. I live on 4 acres of dirt lol this cars been cleaned every two times I use it up till it locked up.

So hopefully this case is 100% sealed and I can clean it after 3-5 battery.

Just trying to make this chassis be dirt resistant or proof haha. And if anyone knows of a good sleaed bearings kit trying to find some to replace them all at once and maybe a kit that has multiple pinion gears for these cars so I can tweak speed/acceleration...


No its still open on the bottom and there is still the slot behind the battery retainer.
 
Wow! That looks like that plastic sleeve I was mentioning got really hot and melted, could have been the bearing too but the MEGA slipper is not designed for much "slip" action.

4000kv should be just fine on 2S, on 3S you may want to pinion down as it may be a bit much for it.

The MEGA slipper I am using on one of my Granites is tightened down to the max (no space between spring). You can slide the center drive shaft on to one side of the slipper and grab the spur to see how tight it is. FYI that system is running a VXL 3s, been waiting for the Mega slipper to fry but it keeps going, I did lube the plastic collar though so I am sure that helps.
So I will definitely need a new case. The 6mm will fit correct? And very odd my system hasn't thermal shutdown.... Since it's melted plastic. Hopefully a new case that's aluminum and maybe an aluminum center driveshaft would work well if it's tight and doesn't wobble/overheat like this one did.
Hobbytown recommended the 4000kv.. lol I know I want to use this truck for the long haul so any tips on keeping dirt out(I saw the double sided tape theory works well) also looking for better suspension since I like to ramp this rc alot.
I love the speed and torque I have but a different pinion or spur setup would be nice to have more torque for wheels but still have a good top speed.
 
Sweet I will definitely see if these are still in stock once payday hits. But thank you all for the help. Hopefully I can keep this senton from ripping motor apart lol
Good luck. Another thing that has helped others is to place a 5mm washer and an oring under the pinion, it goes pinion, washer then oring near the bearing. But make sure that the oring does not bind against the bearing or the motor can.
 
Well fellas I put her back together tonight even watched a video about making sure my gears were lined up correctly (previously had no idea about the paper took both old motors off multiple times to clean never spun a gear)

I'm running the 57T 0.8 steel spur with a 15T pinion. Might have been to much torque because my spur gear is spun. Will have pics once I get home of the destruction but any tips guys? Idk what to do... 70$ gear break like that:/
 
Well fellas I put her back together tonight even watched a video about making sure my gears were lined up correctly (previously had no idea about the paper took both old motors off multiple times to clean never spun a gear)

I'm running the 57T 0.8 steel spur with a 15T pinion. Might have been to much torque because my spur gear is spun. Will have pics once I get home of the destruction but any tips guys? Idk what to do... 70$ gear break like that:/
Post some pictures please, spur and pinion. While it’s still together and then after taking it apart. Doesn’t make sense a metal spur stripping out right away. It’s not the torque. Something must be off. I have 2 year old composite spurs that are still good. My year old metal ones have near zero wear.
 
Post some pictures please, spur and pinion. While it’s still together and then after taking it apart. Doesn’t make sense a metal spur stripping out right away. It’s not the torque. Something must be off. I have 2 year old composite spurs that are still good. My year old metal ones have near zero wear.
Sorry it's steel shaft and a plastic gear. So I may need a solid steel one
 
So this upgrades case will get rid of the tiny 1mm part on the bottom of the gear from being vulnerable and a hole there?

If so awesome il stick with this chassis but if not I may be looking for a new chassis. I live on 4 acres of dirt lol this cars been cleaned every two times I use it up till it locked up.

So hopefully this case is 100% sealed and I can clean it after 3-5 battery.

Just trying to make this chassis be dirt resistant or proof haha. And if anyone knows of a good sleaed bearings kit trying to find some to replace them all at once and maybe a kit that has multiple pinion gears for these cars so I can tweak speed/acceleration...
I missed seeing this post till now. What tiny 1mm part and hole are you referring to?

The spur cases need to be pulled and cleaned out every few runs or so. The cars are rather high maintenance in general, just how it is. Can’t make them dust proof either, can only prevent some from getting in. Also the spur case generates fine dust during operation that needs to be cleaned out.

Motors do not have a temperature cut off. Only ESCs do, that’s why you need a temp gun to keep an eye on the motor temp. The composite diff case and center drive shafts hold up well. I’ve several over 2 years old.
Bearings typically last awhile if cared for but still expect to change them out 2-3 times per year if you drive it several or more times per week.

I save up my old bearings that are still decent and clean them in a sonic cleaner, then reuse. Some last longer than others. My highest wear bearings are the outer wheel bearings and last just a few weeks usually. I keep a close eye on my spur bearings also. Many have issues with motor bearings. I tape off with, electrical tape, all unused mounting holes and put a o- ring the same size as the recess aroundJim’s, TBR, Fast Eddie’s annd avid are some brands that have Arrma 3s bearing kits.

Good luck bud, you’ll get it all down. In the end remember that it’s an 80% composite plastic rc toy for general bashing and fun. It’s not a race machine. There’s a lot more involved and far more expense to get one of those. Just enjoy it for what it is.
 
Last edited:
I missed seeing this post till now. What tiny 1mm part and hole are you referring to?

The spur cases need to be pulled and cleaned out every few runs or so. The cars are rather high maintenance in general, just how it is. Can’t make them dust proof either, can only prevent some from getting in. Also the spur case generates fine dust during operation that needs to be cleaned out.

Motors do not have a temperature cut off. Only ESCs do, that’s why you need a temp gun to keep an eye on the motor temp. The composite diff case and center drive shafts hold up well. I’ve several over 2 years old.
Bearings typically last awhile if cared for but still expect to change them out 2-3 times per year if you drive it several or more times per week.

I save up my old bearings that are still decent and clean them in a sonic cleaner, then reuse. Some last longer than others. My highest wear bearings are the outer wheel bearings and last just a few weeks usually. I keep a close eye on my spur bearing also. Many have issues with motor bearings. I tape off with, electrical tape, all unused mounting holes and put a o- ring the same size as the recess aroundJim’s, TBR, Fast Eddie’s annd avid are some brands that have Arrma 3s bearing kits.

Good luck bud, you’ll get it all down. In the end remember that it’s an an 80% composite plastic rc toy for general bashing and fun. It’s not a race machine. There’s a lot more involved and far more expense to get one of those. Just enjoy it for what it is.
It seems my pinion with sleeve slipped down, luckily not off and just barley nicked the spur gear.

The 5mm I also got I missed it was a 32 pitch -_- but I have an extra 91T as well in case this didn't work. But it drove amazing alot more torque can't even do donuts on loose dirt without flipping now. The 48pitch 15T pinion gear holds now. Put thread locker on it just the tiniest possible amount so it held and I could still break it off. Just hit the two jumps a few times at home and it's running good. Will probably get new tape for sealing the spur because the 3m is a little tough to get the motor mount case back in and off but not to bad. Was very clean inside compared to last time with dirt in it from one run.
I'm just going to set it aside for now and probably go to the local rc store and get a new pinion maybe not a 15T so I can actually turn and not flip on stock wheels.
Very fun though, it is never really hot on the motor. I can. Touch it and it feels like warm 30&45 mins on 2s, doubt I'll go 3s unless I have a motor fan installed first.

Appreciate everyone's tips, I do try to clean it more now than when I first got it. Have new front suspension ordered and screws just because most are rusted and stripped from last owners sadly.

But will continue to look for a better pinion setup. Have new 14mm to 12mm wheel adapter as well to try and find more wheel setups just from the local shop. Will have to order some MTs
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top