The belt driven diff looks cool. How many pulleys will you have to play with for gearing options? They look very conservative, gearing wise, unless that’s a gazillion KV motor or you’re running it on 8s or 10s. This is going to be a basher? Very interesting build. I’m intrigued, but a lot I don’t understand here. Looking forward to the completed list,
I like to do builds that are not what you might see everyday.. or maybe have never seen.. which of course always comes with the risk of it turning out horrible, which could be why you have never seen it before. But then again it could turn amazing.. theres usually great risks with high rewards.. and either way I enjoy building them about as much or maybe more than I enjoy driving them. They may not be for everyone and I will take anyone’s criticism as long I learn from my mistakes. But anyway to answer your questions I‘ve been wanting a belt drive for my infraction for a while now and had no luck finding a kit for it so I decided to just figure it out myself and put together my own. And while I was waiting a long time for these stupid pulleys to come from china I redid my infraction build to a dual CC 1717 (1650kv) with 2 CC MMX8s ESCs so obviously a single belt drive set up would2 not work so I decided to try it out on this one. It came it nearly perfect (just need to play around with the pulley/belt sizes a little. I ordered a bunch of different length belts bc I only had an educated guess of what length to run bc apparently the closer you can get the pinion to the spur / spool the quicker it is.. so Im ordering some shorter belts and also some different size pulleys so I can play around with gearing. I have an 18/36 on there now and it actually gets up there speed wise. I’m going to get a top speed on it today but I wanna guess around 70. Its a Cordova 1445 (2000kv) and I have been running it on 6s with a CNHL 5000mah 65c.. Just trying to get everything dialed in on it before I go ham on 8s. But planning on running two CNHL 5600mah 120c 4s lipos. Or i also have two Zeee 5200mah 120c 4s lipos that weigh around 430gs each which is considerably lighter than the CNHL and most other 4 cells at that.. Im trying to keep the weight down as much as possible. I really wanted to scorched titanium chassis and towers but just about everything everywhere is out of stock. I also have some 1/5 scale GRPs with the adapters so I can always go that route if I want. Or just throw those on every now and then when I feel like do some street drags. Which is really what the Cordova motor was designed for.. but hey!? poop straight rips and handles like a champ.. and I thinks it’s pretty badass..
So yeah, it should rip on 8s.
If you wanted to keep it lightweight, why didn’t you go with a carbon chassis instead of literally the heaviest chassis available? The JBI is for extreme bashing that benefits guys who can’t stick their big-air landings or who can’t seem to avoid kissing curbs at high rates of speed. That thing is heavy AF, the King of Heavy.
I don’t have a Talion body. I bought a slider and built it up from there but I do know the Talion body would sit about 3 inches from the rear towers . You have to either modify the mounting points or you can buy a kit from brasher queen that makes it plug and play so to speak. I’m just running a proline 1/8 scale truck body for now.. I’m still working on trimming and painting the body. I may run an outcast 8s body bc the wheel base is on point. Just have to cut most of the tailgate section out to fit it tho.
Yeah the JBI chassis is the main reason I’m trying to save on weight where I can.. I didn’t mean it was a lightweight build bc obviously it’s just not. I couldn’t resist the way the chassis looks. I didn’t realize how heavy it really was until I got it so I may actually try something different. I can always use the JBI on something else. the Arrma platforms are so interchangeable it’s almost worth it just to have for a later build. And I literally bought my first RC about 4 months ago so learning as I go. thanks for the feed back man. I appreciate itSo yeah, it should rip on 8s.
If you wanted to keep it lightweight, why didn’t you go with a carbon chassis instead of literally the heaviest chassis available? The JBI is for extreme bashing that benefits guys who can’t stick their big-air landings or who can’t seem to avoid kissing curbs at high rates of speed. That thing is heavy AF, the King of Heavy.
That said, I’m not criticizing. I’m just curious.
Also, personally, I tend to walk a (thick) line that could either favor really crazy Colin Chapman-like weight reduction efforts, or total form over function routes just because it tickles my fancy. Your belt drive motor mount setup is one of the latter, and I can’t stop staring at it. Despite the difficulties involved with gearing swaps, different size belts, and pulley availability it’s one of the sexiest looking approaches I’ve seen in a while and I want that! I’ll be trying to not succumb to the temptation though. But if you re-drilled everything, mounted your motor in a transverse orientation, and did a total belt drive setup that eliminated the center shafts, then…. But at that point I guess we’d all buy a Serpent, right?
This is a very cool, out of the box build and I’m enjoying your progress. Nice work, staying tuned.
If it’s going to be a basher I’d keep it. If it will be seeing more on-road I’d go lighter. Even the stock EXB chassis are good. You can bend them, but mostly only resulting from bad landings and high speed impacts with immovable objects. For a speed runner it’s carbon all the way, but it doesn’t look like that’s what you’re going for.
) and the dog bone came out again but this time snapped a pin.. Can anyone throw out any ideas on how to fix this issue?? I adjusted The droop screws some too but it didnt help. I’ve never had a car pop a dog bone out ever and this ones 2 for 2… something stinks in suburbia..
Can you go to cvds all around?so on the first test run one of the front dog bones popped out so I removed the washers between the pillow ball and upper arm and drilled out the spacer between the lower ball and arm so it would sit inside of it. that made the shafts sit about 1-2mm more inside the cups at the diff which seemed to resolve the issue.. that is until it took its first “tumble wumble“ (Talbot…
That’s what I’ve been doing wherever possible. All my Typhons have CVD’s front and rear.
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