Talion Arrma Talion overheating

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stuartd

Active Member
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Location
Scotland, UK.
Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
  2. Talion
  3. Typhon 6s
I've had my new Talion v3 out for a couple of runs now. Really impressed with it so far.

I went to my work car park when it was mostly empty today so I'd have space to pull the trigger right back (briefly) but after about a half hour of driving / skidding it around the car cut out suddenly and wouldn't move forward/back. I didn't take the body off to check anything as I guessed my batteries were drained, but when I got home they still have power in them.

In case it's relevant the green LED comes on beside the ESC when I power the car on. A red LED then flashes until I pull the trigger on the controller, after that it goes out.

I'm compleetly new to RC and was just wondering if this is normal ?
 
Lipo batteries should never be drained below 3.2 volts per cell. What do you mean by they still had juice in them?
 
I thought the car had stopped because the batteries were drained. However I got home and tried the car again and it drove OK. I'm using 2 x 3S, checked them in the charger and both were sitting around 3.6/3.6/3.6 before I started a balance charge.
 
I thought the car had stopped because the batteries were drained. However I got home and tried the car again and it drove OK. I'm using 2 x 3S, checked them in the charger and both were sitting around 3.6/3.6/3.6 before I started a balance charge.

I try not to go below 3.6.

My guess is you hit the thermal cutoff. It happened to me once. The truck just stopped. When it cooled down it was fine. But I won’t run it that hard anymore. I’m not sure what temp you have to hit to get the thermal shutdown but it has to be up there.
 
It probably hit low voltage cut off. After sitting, the voltage will raise slightly in the battery pack. 3.6 volts per cell is slightly under recommended storage voltage.
 
The underside of the chassis was warm when I lifted the Talion and carried it back to my car. The charger (skyrc ultimate duo) reckoned 20% fuel remaining when I plugged the batteries in. Sounds like I just pushed it a bit too far one way or the other, on the plus side I'm learning new things all the time, thanks!
 
The underside of the chassis was warm when I lifted the Talion and carried it back to my car. The charger (skyrc ultimate duo) reckoned 20% fuel remaining when I plugged the batteries in. Sounds like I just pushed it a bit too far one way or the other, on the plus side I'm learning new things all the time, thanks!

Look for a place with mounds of dirt or grass where you can jump it. Jumping is so much fun. I much prefer it to driving fast in a parking lot. That gets old fast. For me anyway.
 
I agree with TJF. A lot of stuff gets warm/hot after a run. Most LVC kicks in between 3.3V and 3.5V and the battery level will slightly rise once the batteries rest. Buy a cheap temp gun, they're only like $10. Once the truck stops, immediately check the temps of your motor, ESC and batteries. I always do anyway.
 
When the ESC overheats, it will apply brakes and stop, then not move forward or backward. Some have said it also kills power to the receiver and you can't steer, but that hasn't been my experience with the BLX185 in my outcast. I don't know what the lights do in either case as I have wires in the way and can't readily see it.

When you hit LVC, it will drop to a very slow speed for a few minutes then probably stop all together. I never drive it after it slows down like that. I go pick it up and shut it off, then carry it to avoid over draining the packs.

I overheat my outcast a lot unintentionally. I was running proline 3.8" trenchers which are heavier than stock tires by 1oz on each tire. That combined with 4S on 16/50 gearing caused it to overheat after about 10 minutes or so in short grass. I dropped to 15/50 and it would go about 15 minutes before overheating. Then I ran 14/50 and I could run a full pack without overheating, about 22 minutes. I've since switched to smaller/lighter wheels/tires, traxxas emaxx 3.3 wheels/tires. I ran it hard for 3 sets of packs last weekend when it was 87F outside. Never shut down on me. However, I didn't run at the park where I usually overheat it, but I did push it very hard at the skate park for the entire second set of packs after switching from 14/50 to 15/50 with almost no stop time and I ran in/out of the skate park on grass a lot just to push it. It never shut down on me until LVC, which was a first since I got it.

I run a hobbywing 40mm fan/heat sink on the motor. That dropped my temps from 170F to 140F. Then I was still fighting with the esc overheating. Hopefully the lighter tires/wheels are what works. Just kind of bummed I can't run the trenchers with gearing that's at a speed I want.
 
Thanks for all the info and suggestions.

My first run with the Talion was on a big grassy 'park' area near where I stay. I got the car thinking it would be a great place to bash it about. My son and I had a blast racing it around, he kept getting it up onto 2 wheels when turning. Impressing an eleven year old is no easy task these days! Only bad thing is the incosiderate dogwalkers that don't bother pooper scooping, so I had dog <beep> on the top/underside/through the gaps of the rear suspension arms that took a while to clean off.

Regarding the car stopping in the car park the other night, before the car stopped it did seem a little slower on its' way back towards me. I'll pay more attention next time now that I know more of what to look for, and will see about picking up a cheap temp gun. If it is the temps I'll either stop thrashing it as much or look at fitting a fan or two.

I'm still in the 'new owner' phase, and am easilly impressed simply by the speed (using factory gear, I haven't fitted the supplied option part) the car can get to and how it can slide the back end around. The tires are probably about a third or so worn, so I'll be needing to get new ones in the near future.
 
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