Talion Arrma Talion tips and tricks

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Kyzane

Kyzane

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
  2. Talion
So i havn't found any posts while looking around the internet the past couple weeks on little changes and tweaks people have made to their Talion to improve how it has been handling. so i figured i would start it off myself.

My talion didn't come with an antenna tube so i took the time to cut a short piece that comes up just shy of the underside of my body. then i pulled the antenna back into the waterproof receiver case until i had just enough out to fit into the tube. Finally I put the tube in the mounting hole and capped it to keep it clean. This as worked like a charm for me. and hasn't come loose or been damaged after multiple batteries and rolls/flips.
 
Kyzane said:
So i havn't found any posts while looking around the internet the past couple weeks on little changes and tweaks people have made to their Talion to improve how it has been handling. so i figured i would start it off myself.

My talion didn't come with an antenna tube so i took the time to cut a short piece that comes up just shy of the underside of my body. then i pulled the antenna back into the waterproof receiver case until i had just enough out to fit into the tube. Finally I put the tube in the mounting hole and capped it to keep it clean. This as worked like a charm for me. and hasn't come loose or been damaged after multiple batteries and rolls/flips.
Click to expand...


It's my Arrma DEX8Talion

Got this Talion roller and wanted to use the DEX8T body, so I ended up having to get the front and rear towers and rear body mounts. also had to use the front upper control arm bushing carrier from the DEX8T which mounted perfectly beneath the red Arrma aluminum steering brace.

I also notice quite a lot of slop in the upper arms. When I got the parts to convert the shock towers I ended up with some extra shim clips. So on the upper hinge pin stock it had 1 large one on the shock side and 2 small ones on the servo side. So I left the large one on and removed one of the small ones and replaced with another large "thicker" one. 95% of the slop gone and no binding or movement issues

The DEX8T body sits quite a bit lower than the stock Arrma Talion so the body now sits down nice and snug and seems to have helped lower the CG.

Rebuilt all the diffs used 10k in front and center and 5k in the rear. Running a Tekin RX8G2 2250KV on 15/50 gearing. and a Savox 1258TG, some slightly longer and stiffer Tekno springs, and rear mud guards

DE Racing black dish wheels will meet up with some badlands later today.

Not sure if I will go full on DEX8T chassis, center diff and drive shafts. but I may end up installing the adjustable diff/hinge plates. Will have to see what happens when something breaks.

Will post more pics once the wheels and body are finished.
IMG_1033.webp
IMG_1034.webp
IMG_1035.webp
IMG_1037.webp
 
LoRD.HoSTiLE said:
Thanks,


The Grey is Duratrax Gunmetal DTXR4263 and the purple is Pactra Candy Purple RC273


Also ended up with DEX8T shocks and hexes, installed Tekno battery straps too.


Hos...
Click to expand...
Been looking at using dex8t parts on my kraton, what parts can i use? Changing axles and wheel hubs so my kraton is pretty much a talion
 
With my nitro truggy
I always end up slaping bottoming out the back even with stronger oil shocks and spring
I used nitro gas tubing on the shocks shaft
Now when it jumps it will not bottom out
That rubber tubing will prevents it
And those shocks still work fine
 
This thread was on the Kraton forum, but IMHO, this same mod is needed for the Talion - Especially if you upgrade the stock servo to one with a proper amount of power and speed.

DIY Servo Mount

I am amazed at the difference... I honestly didn't think it would be as noticeable while driving, but you can really feel the extra precision.

Jerry
 
20160608_132013.webp


Prevent it from.bottoming out

LoRD.HoSTiLE said:
It's my Arrma DEX8Talion

Got this Talion roller and wanted to use the DEX8T body, so I ended up having to get the front and rear towers and rear body mounts. also had to use the front upper control arm bushing carrier from the DEX8T which mounted perfectly beneath the red Arrma aluminum steering brace.

I also notice quite a lot of slop in the upper arms. When I got the parts to convert the shock towers I ended up with some extra shim clips. So on the upper hinge pin stock it had 1 large one on the shock side and 2 small ones on the servo side. So I left the large one on and removed one of the small ones and replaced with another large "thicker" one. 95% of the slop gone and no binding or movement issues

The DEX8T body sits quite a bit lower than the stock Arrma Talion so the body now sits down nice and snug and seems to have helped lower the CG.

Rebuilt all the diffs used 10k in front and center and 5k in the rear. Running a Tekin RX8G2 2250KV on 15/50 gearing. and a Savox 1258TG, some slightly longer and stiffer Tekno springs, and rear mud guards

DE Racing black dish wheels will meet up with some badlands later today.

Not sure if I will go full on DEX8T chassis, center diff and drive shafts. but I may end up installing the adjustable diff/hinge plates. Will have to see what happens when something breaks.

Will post more pics once the wheels and body are finished.View attachment 246 View attachment 247 View attachment 248 View attachment 249
Click to expand...
Man i like those towers are they perfect fit with the talion? Can you give me the part number?

Thanx bud
 
ARRMAgeddon said:
Prevent it from.bottoming out
Click to expand...

Bottoming out for a Truggy is by design. If it doesn't bottom out and slap then all of the force of the landing is taken by the suspension. It might prevent a few scratches on the bottom of the chassis but I suspect you will have more bent shock shafts, broken shock ends, etc as a trade off. You want the suspension to soften the landing but the slap is supposed to prevent the suspension from taking too much. Skid plates can protect the chassis from the scratches.

By using as much fuel tube as you have on the shocks you are limiting their travel and effectiveness. What exactly was your reasoning for wanting to prevent bottoming out entirely?

What vehicle is that? It looks like it has aluminum arms so I doubt it's Arrma.
 
Jerry-rigged said:
I'll just leave this here...

Durango%2Bto%2BArrma.webp
Click to expand...
Lol but you forget what company making them?

Walter said:
Bottoming out for a Truggy is by design. If it doesn't bottom out and slap then all of the force of the landing is taken by the suspension. It might prevent a few scratches on the bottom of the chassis but I suspect you will have more bent shock shafts, broken shock ends, etc as a trade off. You want the suspension to soften the landing but the slap is supposed to prevent the suspension from taking too much. Skid plates can protect the chassis from the scratches.

By using as much fuel tube as you have on the shocks you are limiting their travel and effectiveness. What exactly was your reasoning for wanting to prevent bottoming out entirely?

What vehicle is that? It looks like it has aluminum arms so I doubt it's Arrma.
Click to expand...

Its a lightning pro truggy nitro
That hose works for me
It doesn't bottom out it didnt make any difference on the susupension
I can jump it as high as 8 feet nothing broken chassis didnt slap the ground
But every so often i have to changed that hose line lol
 

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