Talion Arrma Talion tips and tricks

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Hello everyone.Im new in this forum.Bought Talion V4 for my son.Hes 11 years old and been driving short course 1 year and hes good in that.Had Traxxas E-Revo 6s and he didnt liked it.Always broken.Now when we get Talion, hes always bashing.So far he made these upgrades: RPM arms, RPM rear skidplate, RPM front bumber/skidplate, RPM wing mount, Hobbywing Max8 combo, Jx 27kg/0.07s servo, Arrowmax 14t pinion, Avid bearings, Sanwa MT-44 transmitter (same as he use while racing), belted Pro-Line Badlands and Slingshots, diffs shimmed and using 40k/150k/20k oils, Intech Br-6 shock rodends (highly recommended, better than RPM or any others).Now waiting package where will come aluminium chassis braces, servo mount, middle diff front support and stainless steel links.I asked why not Kraton EXB with all that money..He said no, he loves Talion.What else he should upgrade? Training trippleflips atm..And notice, we live in Finland and doesn't have Ebay in here.Corona effects everything what we have to order from other countries.Sorry about my bad english and long first message to here. #T
 
Careful with the metal upgrades especially when bashing. Majority stays with plastic, even the rod ends, to avoid expensive damage. If the rod end does not break the next item in line that will get damaged is the shock shaft etc.

Talion is one of the most underrated bashers. I'll take it any day over my Kraton as well but they are both fun.

Welcome to the forum!
 
Careful with the metal upgrades especially when bashing. Majority stays with plastic, even the rod ends, to avoid expensive damage. If the rod end does not break the next item in line that will get damaged is the shock shaft etc.

Talion is one of the most underrated bashers. I'll take it any day over my Kraton as well but they are both fun.

Welcome to the forum!
Careful with the metal upgrades especially when bashing. Majority stays with plastic, even the rod ends, to avoid expensive damage. If the rod end does not break the next item in line that will get damaged is the shock shaft etc.

Talion is one of the most underrated bashers. I'll take it any day over my Kraton as well but they are both fun.

Welcome to the forum!
Sorry learning to use this forum.Those Intech rod ends are plastic ones.Using those in sc and M8 classes.
 
Couldn't find a working link but could be due to location and definitely impacted by your local availability.
Good alternatives are RPM shock rod ends as well.

Upgrade wise looks like he is covered, alu chassis braces would be on top of the list.
Alu servo mount, not really needed if screws are changed out for longer M3 which would brace the plastic servo mount.
 
Careful with the metal upgrades especially when bashing. Majority stays with plastic, even the rod ends, to avoid expensive damage. If the rod end does not break the next item in line that will get damaged is the shock shaft etc.

Talion is one of the most underrated bashers. I'll take it any day over my Kraton as well but they are both fun.

Welcome to the forum!
I totally agree. My Talion has been an absolute beast of a basher.
 
It's my Arrma DEX8Talion

Got this Talion roller and wanted to use the DEX8T body, so I ended up having to get the front and rear towers and rear body mounts. also had to use the front upper control arm bushing carrier from the DEX8T which mounted perfectly beneath the red Arrma aluminum steering brace.

I also notice quite a lot of slop in the upper arms. When I got the parts to convert the shock towers I ended up with some extra shim clips. So on the upper hinge pin stock it had 1 large one on the shock side and 2 small ones on the servo side. So I left the large one on and removed one of the small ones and replaced with another large "thicker" one. 95% of the slop gone and no binding or movement issues

The DEX8T body sits quite a bit lower than the stock Arrma Talion so the body now sits down nice and snug and seems to have helped lower the CG.

Rebuilt all the diffs used 10k in front and center and 5k in the rear. Running a Tekin RX8G2 2250KV on 15/50 gearing. and a Savox 1258TG, some slightly longer and stiffer Tekno springs, and rear mud guards

DE Racing black dish wheels will meet up with some badlands later today.

Not sure if I will go full on DEX8T chassis, center diff and drive shafts. but I may end up installing the adjustable diff/hinge plates. Will have to see what happens when something breaks.

Will post more pics once the wheels and body are finished.View attachment 246 View attachment 247 View attachment 248 View attachment 249
Those Durango parts look nice on the talion.
 
Can't find tires for Talion in EU (Talion Dboots Katar AR550048). Out of Stock everywhere and 2 months delivery.
 
Exb diffs!!!! Changed all three in my talion and it makes an unbelievable difference in better handling. Another thing I did is turn my spoiler backwards, sounds weird but it has never broken since I did it neither the mount and still protects everything. Another thing, keep as much plastic parts as you can, they might break but this car is meant to be fast and light is key, along with that the stock wheels/ tires are by far the best or just any as thick as stock ones. I love the talion so much and never breaks and is so fast!!! Get a fan too for the motor haha.
 
Can someone point me in the right direction please. Redoing shock oils on my Talion and the book calls for 2000cst shock oil. That converts to about 1xxWt oil. Need to stiffen up the rear of mine to get some oversteer action going.
 
Nero HD springs and somewhere 2-5000 cst is the sweet spot pending terrain and application.
I took it to a local track and I’m hooked. Will not be a basher or speed run truck. Primarily a track slut. I’ve read on the FB groups some people actually using lower cst/wt shock oil. I know the heavy oil weight is due to the shock tower angles.
 
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