Talion Arrma Talion tips and tricks

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Amazon for the "Standard Servo Plate A"
Tower for the stand-offs.

When I did mine, I got the "Standard Servo Plate A" from Amazon, and the stand-offs from Tower.

Another idea - others have bought shorter stand-offs, and just cut the legs off the stock plastic servo mount - and swapped in the metal legs. Seems to work just as well.
 
I was wondering if anyone has used the wing mounts from the Kraton on the Talion V3. I broke mine and cannot seem to find the replacement. So I ordered the Kraton one, and hopefully it will fit. They are different part numbers but think it will work it just won't be the low profile anymore. I will post back with my findings tomorrow when I get it installed.
 
I was able to get the wing mounts installed from the Kraton, it mounts up and fits just like the stock one, it is higher profile than stock.

Here is a picture of the higher profile.
 

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I have the 2018 model for few weeks now and I just broke some stuff.

Here's the parts/tips I recommend for a new buyer:

- RPM Front & Rear A-Arms


- RPM Wing Mount



- For the basher that likes to rides around without caring too much: RPM Front Bumper, it do a skid plate as well
- If running in water/snow: have in hand some oil like WD-40 or silicone lubricant. Make the car dry first and lubricate on bearing and spray pretty much all screw or metal parts. The screws are going to rust pretty fast!
- Have in spare some ball cups or even best, the kit set that includes few differents items. Much better to have some in hand otherwise it's a pain when you want to ride and missing some parts...

BTW thumbs up on the idea of rubber spray inside the body, i'm pretty sure it's gonna last longer!

I love the center brace idea from this guy:
and he done some other videos for DIY upgrades too, check out his channel
 
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what do you use ? I tried silicone too but it dries and leave a white residue. I got few rides now in snow and WD-40 seems to work well...
 
WD-40 will work for a few days, but then it will evaporate. Also, it does a great job of cleaning out the old oils, so when the WD40 evaporates, your bearings are clean and dry. But also with no lube or rust protection, so they will die quick.

I use different lubes that are marketed toward Bicycle chain lubes, or fishing reel bearings lubes. "Tri-flow" that can be found at almost any wal-mart is good too. If all you can find is regular motor oil, you can use that too, thin with mineral spirits by about 50% to help it flow better.

What you want is a thin oil that won't evaporate. If you can find one with a Teflon additive, that is better. Lots of choices.
 
WD-40 will work for a few days, but then it will evaporate. Also, it does a great job of cleaning out the old oils, so when the WD40 evaporates, your bearings are clean and dry. But also with no lube or rust protection, so they will die quick.

I use different lubes that are marketed toward Bicycle chain lubes, or fishing reel bearings lubes. "Tri-flow" that can be found at almost any wal-mart is good too. If all you can find is regular motor oil, you can use that too, thin with mineral spirits by about 50% to help it flow better.

What you want is a thin oil that won't evaporate. If you can find one with a Teflon additive, that is better. Lots of choices.
For what it's worth, WD40 has a light grease left over when it evaporates.

I use a mix of 3-in-1/wd40 for my bearings. Been using it for years and it seems to work fine.
 
Got a squeaky door in your house? Spray some WD40 on it. It will stop squeaking for about 2 weeks.

Put a few drops of 3-n-1, or real motor oil, and it won't squeak for a year.
 
Yeah, I just kind of use the wd40 to thin the 3-in-1 out even more. Then I use a needle tip bottle to put a drop or two on bearings. Should probably just buy some proper bearing oil... the needle tip bottle has taken me 10 years to empty and it's about empty.
 
One of the tips I used last night that failed was heating up with a Eagle torch a mounting bolt that was over killed with not temp locktite. One worked the other failed that was one of the tips I thought I mention.
 
Been driving the Talion V3 5-6 times for a few weeks. Just love it.
First time on 4S, the wing mount broke. Started to run on 6S, more broke :)

These are my tips and things I changed so far.
Wing Mount, tried RPM's. way too high. Buy the original low profile and install a flexible wing.
Mudguards Rear, a must. buy or make your own.
RPM arms front.
Rubber sealed bearings for the hubs especially the inner rear.
Skidplates/Bumpers. RPM up front, T-Bone for the rear.
Tower to tower brace, TP Parts square tube alu version works well. (video posted in thread #25)
Bearings steering mechanism.
Mudguards front from the Outcast (not yet completely done, not a direct fit)
more upgrades to follow...................looking in the Voltage Hobbies upgrades but those are so far hard to find in Sweden.
Another upgrade I forgot, I got a Dusty Motors dustcover, real nice for keeping debris out of the car but
did not stop the sand from getting in through the front when driving in a supernice sandpit, (therefore the front dirt guards idea) my ride below in one of the many upgrade stages :)
 

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What do the mud guards do for you? I mean, anything besides the obvious of keeping mud from accumulating in the wheel or on the shock?

I've never had a real need for them on any of my RC's over the years. I don't drive in dirt really. Mostly grass or skate parks.
 
What do the mud guards do for you? I mean, anything besides the obvious of keeping mud from accumulating in the wheel or on the shock?

I've never had a real need for them on any of my RC's over the years. I don't drive in dirt really. Mostly grass or skate parks.

The rear mudguards was my first upgrade. I drive where there's lots of small stones, debris, long grass etc etc
The front just squirts all kinds of debris back on the arms, axles and shocks. I've have never used any rear mudguards until
i bought a Talion :)
 
Anyone know ths difference between team durango td102005 shock tower and td0206 shock towers? And will they fit on the talion.

Don't know the difference, i believe they will fit, but the older towers are too tall for the Talion V3. Voltage Hobbies makes nice shock towers that fits several Arrma models but not the Talion V3.
 

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I have been searching for alternatives myself and so far only found the Hot Racing shock towers.
Well, comparing pictures it still looks like it's to tall. Can not find a good picture on the TD-0206 except on ebay. Can not find TD-0206 on Team Durango's site. Team Durango's site lists TD330314 as the shock tower that would fit DEX408T and DNX408T but then again i believe they have different versions models V1 V2 etc, I guess the only thing to do is buy it and try it.
 

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Decided to replace the 13T stock pinion, the stock pinion is nice compromise for both 4S and 6S and heat. However on 4S it's nice with a little more topspeed, went with the Tekno RC TKR4176 16T, high quality pinion. Had to use heat and excessive force in order to remove the stock pinion, used Loctite 270 for the grub screw (hard) and Loctite 243 (medium hard) for the motor mount screws, alu part only. Just perfect on 4S now and on 6S, jeeez that is fast....... but less punch which makes it nicer to drive.
 

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