Talion Arrma Talion tips and tricks

crimsonfancy

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I did the mojave chassis preorder last weekend. David/ScorchedParts said it's about 4-5 weeks, so let see.

EDIT: @crimsonfancy I misread the quote I thought it was for the whole chassis :ROFLMAO: for front/rear chassis plates probably should have been shorter wait time ;) just ask him via email, he's quite responsive in answering.

Thank you! I'll mail him now.
 

crimsonfancy

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For those who are looking for tighter, more accurate steering, definitely get an aluminum servo mount. There is so much flex in the stock plastic piece.

View attachment 64773

2nd, those with V4 "never-loose" servo savers, don't fight the thread locker and slip some 1/2" snap rings on. Small snap ring pliers are best for this. The stock spring is very forgiving but not the best for higher grip levels where accuracy is desired. I used 2 rings, opposed 180 degrees at the bottom of the spring. After using the snap ring pliers, I used a 14mm socket to press them into place.

View attachment 64774

New servo mount is a must have upgrade in my opinion and I like this servo saver fix. There's a video online somewhere of it being done and I remember it being something I wanted to do on my V4 Kraton at least.
 

PaPa Thorn

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For those who are looking for tighter, more accurate steering, definitely get an aluminum servo mount. There is so much flex in the stock plastic piece.

View attachment 64773

2nd, those with V4 "never-loose" servo savers, don't fight the thread locker and slip some 1/2" snap rings on. Small snap ring pliers are best for this. The stock spring is very forgiving but not the best for higher grip levels where accuracy is desired. I used 2 rings, opposed 180 degrees at the bottom of the spring. After using the snap ring pliers, I used a 14mm socket to press them into place.

View attachment 64774

I like that snap ring idea. I just got a new Typhon so was getting ready to deal with the servo saver.
 

Badtouch The basher

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So i havn't found any posts while looking around the internet the past couple weeks on little changes and tweaks people have made to their Talion to improve how it has been handling. so i figured i would start it off myself.

My talion didn't come with an antenna tube so i took the time to cut a short piece that comes up just shy of the underside of my body. then i pulled the antenna back into the waterproof receiver case until i had just enough out to fit into the tube. Finally I put the tube in the mounting hole and capped it to keep it clean. This as worked like a charm for me. and hasn't come loose or been damaged after multiple batteries and rolls/flips.
Just wanted to say there is a 1.5mm grub screw next to the tube unscrew that and push any slop in ?? and then tighten up. If this wasn't already said ?
 

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I was wondering what is the easiest way to install a new driveshaft dogbone on my Talion 6s. I either broke my last one or it popped out without causing anymore damage. I could not find the missing dogbone. I think the only ways to install the driveshaft is to either remove the center or rear diffs.
 

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I use Lucas red and tacky for all my bearings,,,sticks and lubes excellent,,,you can find it at any auto parts store...
I was wondering what is the easiest way to install a new driveshaft dogbone on my Talion 6s. I either broke my last one or it popped out without causing anymore damage. I could not find the missing dogbone. I think the only ways to install the driveshaft is to either remove the center or rear diffs.
I was wondering what is the easiest way to install a new driveshaft dogbone on my Talion 6s. I either broke my last one or it popped out without causing anymore damage. I could not find the missing dogbone. I think the only ways to install the driveshaft is to either remove the center or rear diffs.
I was wondering what is the easiest way to install a new driveshaft dogbone on my Talion 6s. I either broke my last one or it popped out without causing anymore damage. I could not find the missing dogbone. I think the only ways to install the driveshaft is to either remove the center or rear diffs.
I use Lucas red and tacky for all my bearings,,,sticks and lubes excellent,,,you can find it at any auto parts store...
Just drop the wheel hub down when it swings down you’ll have room to insert new dog bone,,,5 minute job
 

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I don't think I understand what you mean by wheel hub, or are you thinking of the CV driveshaft to each rear wheel? The dogbone I lost is from center diff to rear diff.
 

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EAGLELITE

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I don't think I understand what you mean by wheel hub, or are you thinking of the CV driveshaft to each rear wheel? The dogbone I lost is from center diff to rear diff.
Sorry I misunderstood,,,,then you should just remove the motor to pull out both axles,,,,remove the mount screws from the bottom,,,there are 5,,,,,2 are close together and 3 next to it. Pull out the motor and center diff,as one unit. Real easy...you’ll see when you have it out. Then replace the shafts a reinstall
 

JerryBoor

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Sorry I misunderstood,,,,then you should just remove the motor to pull out both axles,,,,remove the mount screws from the bottom,,,there are 5,,,,,2 are close together and 3 next to it. Pull out the motor and center diff,as one unit. Real easy...you’ll see when you have it out. Then replace the shafts a reinstall

Thanks, man. That makes more sense. I have to rotate the motor around so I can get the cooling fan installed. This will be combo fix once the drive shaft arrives in a few days.
 

Dmcgroggan3

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Thanks, man. That makes more sense. I have to rotate the motor around so I can get the cooling fan installed. This will be combo fix once the drive shaft arrives in a few days.
....and if you are moving/taking the engine off the mount, be sure to set that mesh again. You want to be able to tun the center diff gear against the pinion gear and hear a slight "tic tok" when turning back and forth....not too close that it grinds and not too far that the teeth barley catch.....some people use paper but I prefer feel and sight
 

JosephB

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Was not impressed with the stock servo so I threw in a ProTek 370TBL that I had. Wow! What a difference! Would highly recommend this servo. On another note. I am running the stock spur and pinion and stock motor and ESC. What would be a good spur gear size? I have heard some talk about a 16t pinion to go with the 50t spur. I have also heard about people running an 16t-46t setup. Please let me know your thoughts.
 

jondilly1974

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Was not impressed with the stock servo so I threw in a ProTek 370TBL that I had. Wow! What a difference! Would highly recommend this servo. On another note. I am running the stock spur and pinion and stock motor and ESC. What would be a good spur gear size? I have heard some talk about a 16t pinion to go with the 50t spur. I have also heard about people running an 16t-46t setup. Please let me know your thoughts.
What are your goals? Do you want to bash without worrying about heat? Do you want to make speed passes? Those are two greatly different scenarios.
 

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For bashing ,stick with ~12 to 15T pinion and you don't have to worry about heat.
On grass stay with lower pinion and dirt etc can be a little higher.

You will be in the ~ 50-60 mph range which is plenty.
 

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So given there are aluminium wing mount washers available, I'm guessing im not the only one tearing the bolts through the plastic?

Is this a fairly reliable fix? Yeah ideally I wouldnt be crashing the thing but it happens lol.
 

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For bashing ,stick with ~12 to 15T pinion and you don't have to worry about heat.
On grass stay with lower pinion and dirt etc can be a little higher.

You will be in the ~ 50-60 mph range which is plenty.

Is the 12-15t pinion when running 4s or 6s?
 
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