Arrma Typhon 3S BLX

jondilly1974

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Arrma Typhon 3S BLX

Arrma 4S BLX120 ESC
Arrma 4S 2400kv Motor
Yeah Racing Dual Motor Fans
Arrma Adjustable Motor Mount
37T FOH Spur Mod 1.0
24T Mod 1.0 Pinion
Fast Eddy Rubber Sealed Bearings
RPM Arms Front & Rear
Typhon 6S shocks 80W
Futaba R304SB-E receiver
HR Steering Rack
HR Steering Blocks
DS3218MG 20kg Aluminum Servo
GRP T02 S2 Slicks
Arrma Granite 3S BLX Wheelie Bar

Current PB 74mph

81A6555A-9739-41F1-9351-F58DCD7870C9.jpeg
A4EE654F-3BD1-473A-9B4A-DDBC74DAAECD.jpeg
 

Notorious J

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Ok, so you knew this was coming. Does the 125 esc fit in front of the stock motor like the 100 does, and is lvc different cut off? Asking for a friend of course, as I have no intentions of modifying mine with Typhon 6s shocks from Jenny's or anything else for that matter.
 

jondilly1974

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Ok, so you knew this was coming. Does the 125 esc fit in front of the stock motor like the 100 does, and is lvc different cut off? Asking for a friend of course, as I have no intentions of modifying mine with Typhon 6s shocks from Jenny's or anything else for that matter.
I don’t think there’s a size difference between the BLX120 and BLX100. They definitely fit on the same radio box holes. As far as LVC, I have no idea. Never been there 🤣🤣🤣🤦🏻‍♂️
 

BashingBrian

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I have no intentions of modifying mine with Typhon 6s shocks from Jenny's or anything else for that matter.
So there’s no way you want to put a BLX185 and a set of Hoons on it either...😉

cough cough.. see my thread about my granite/senton extra stretch ..🤣
 

jondilly1974

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LibertyMKiii

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Still no combination of good weather and free time I suppose?
Anxious to see what you can do with the new gearing!

Have you dialed in the front tire alignment yet?
I typically measure the back of the front tires and then compare to the front of the front tires. Shooting for a slightly smaller measurement on the front side for some "toe in".
 

jondilly1974

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Wow! I like this typhon.
It is possible to have part number for the 37 t spur gear 1.0mod ?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263984107296

Still no combination of good weather and free time I suppose?
Anxious to see what you can do with the new gearing!

Have you dialed in the front tire alignment yet?
I typically measure the back of the front tires and then compare to the front of the front tires. Shooting for a slightly smaller measurement on the front side for some "toe in".
I gave her a run Friday but only managed 65mph. Good news is radio worked well. Brakes worked well too. The lot I was running in was a little too small I think. I have another one in mind. If it drives well, I will consider a country road soon too.

I have a larger pinion coming. I have a 31T pinion on hand, but it won’t fit inside the power module (plastic housing) but I may end up dremeling that to make space for it. The 29T should be here tomorrow I think.
 

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Ok, so you knew this was coming. Does the 125 esc fit in front of the stock motor like the 100 does, and is lvc different cut off? Asking for a friend of course, as I have no intentions of modifying mine with Typhon 6s shocks from Jenny's or anything else for that matter.
absolute champion hahaha!
 

BashingBrian

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Have you dialed in the front tire alignment yet?
I typically measure the back of the front tires and then compare to the front of the front tires. Shooting for a slightly smaller measurement on the front side for some "toe in".
I thought the front was best setup with a small amount of "toe out"..??🤔
 

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I thought the front was best setup with a small amount of "toe out"..??🤔
For quick turning and track use this is how they setup the RTR cars. (toe out also called negative toe)
For speed running you want it either perfectly straight or a little toe in. (also called positive toe)
With toe out the car will grab groves and imperfections in the road. It would have an overall unstable "feel".

On the Kraton 6s when I had dialed in the alignment correctly, I didn't even touch the steering during a speed run. It tracked perfectly straight ;)

toe angle.JPG
 

jondilly1974

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For quick turning and track use this is how they setup the RTR cars. (toe out also called negative toe)
For speed running you want it either perfectly straight or a little toe in. (also called positive toe)
With toe out the car will grab groves and imperfections in the road. It would have an overall unstable "feel".

On the Kraton 6s when I had dialed in the alignment correctly I didn't even touch the steering during a speed run. It tracked perfectly straight ;)
I tell you what, both my rigs are noticeably more stable since I switched to the 3PV. Some of that may also be RPM arms, replacing links and pivot balls too, but they are running much straighter than weeks past. Much more fun this way.
 

LibertyMKiii

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263984107296


I gave her a run Friday but only managed 65mph. Good news is radio worked well. Brakes worked well too. The lot I was running in was a little too small I think. I have another one in mind. If it drives well, I will consider a country road soon too.

I have a larger pinion coming. I have a 31T pinion on hand, but it won’t fit inside the power module (plastic housing) but I may end up dremeling that to make space for it. The 29T should be here tomorrow I think.
I suspect that 29T on 4s is going to put you just over 80. (somewhere in the 80-90mph range)
That should be a very fun, yet controllable speed for this car.

I tell you what, both my rigs are noticeably more stable since I switched to the 3PV. Some of that may also be RPM arms, replacing links and pivot balls too, but they are running much straighter than weeks past. Much more fun this way.
Absolutely a much better experience when things are stable and in control.
My first experiences with speed runs was very frustrating when I began years ago. To this day I am still amazed how good the 3pv radio is for the price.
 

LibertyMKiii

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I have been wanting to build a 3s speed runner. Depending on how your car does, I may go with a Typhon 3s as my next build.

Does it appear you could put a 40mm can motor in there? Or are you stuck with 36mm like the 2400kv 4s motor you have...
 

jondilly1974

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I have been wanting to build a 3s speed runner. Depending on how your car does, I may go with a Typhon 3s as my next build.

Does it appear you could put a 40mm can motor in there? Or are you stuck with 36mm like the 2400kv 4s motor you have...
I can measure when I get home, but I think you could fit a much longer than 40mm can in there. Unless you move the ESC down to the chassis. In that case it would be a very tight fit with a 40mm. I will measure tonight and post what I find.
 

LibertyMKiii

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I can measure when I get home, but I think you could fit a much longer than 40mm can in there. Unless you move the ESC down to the chassis. In that case it would be a very tight fit with a 40mm. I will measure tonight and post what I find.
Sorry I was not very clear about which measurement I was referencing. I was asking about the motor diameter. Does the motor you have in there have some clearance below it, or does it rest on the chassis?
 

jondilly1974

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OK, so I just found time to measure and you can fit at least a 120mm can in length. I know that wasn't your question, but I measured that before seeing you more recent post. 🤣

Now to answer your question, I believe there is about 4-5mm of space below the can to the chassis but it is a hard thing to measure precisely. As seen below, I have 2x 2.5mm spacers (5mm total) wedged below the motor with minimal effort.

23F0897F-B5A6-4626-8AA9-C163791A7264.jpeg

*Yes I see that I’m missing a screw in the motor cap 😱
 

LibertyMKiii

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OK, so I just found time to measure and you can fit at least a 120mm can in length. I know that wasn't your question, but I measured that before seeing you more recent post. 🤣

Now to answer your question, I believe there is about 4-5mm of space below the can to the chassis but it is a hard thing to measure precisely. As seen below, I have 2x 2.5mm spacers (5mm total) wedged below the motor with minimal effort.

View attachment 51600

*Yes I see that I’m missing a screw in the motor cap 😱
That is perfect, thanks!
So you could run the BLX 185 system and 2050kv motor given the room you have there.
Although I would probably go with a TP Power motor with a higher KV.

Just a question of how much those plastic diffs and cv axles can take before they pop....
 

jondilly1974

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That is perfect, thanks!
So you could run the BLX 185 system and 2050kv motor given the room you have there.
Although I would probably go with a TP Power motor with a higher KV.

Just a question of how much those plastic diffs and cv axles can take before they pop....
They don’t take much, but I’m working on a solution for the u-joints. I’m thinking some sort of snap ring or something to add pressure on the tabs to keep them engaged. Either that or change to dogbones somehow. Maybe the composite CVDs, but they’re $85 for a set of 4 and don’t work with Typhon hexes. Probably cheaper to upgrade to 4S shafts, arms, hubs, and hexes. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

jondilly1974

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Looking at the center cross on these u-joints, if they made them just a little longer you could get an E-ring on them to retain the plastic tabs better. It would be a tiny bit more material. Adding a snap ring to the outside of the tabs is hard because it will restrict the other side of the joint from articulating properly. You would need something the shape of the tabs to go directly over them.
 
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