Typhon Arrma Typhon Mega 550 - Wheel issue?

[thabigo]

Hey guys,

I just picked up my first basher from Amazon a couple of days of go since they have been on sale. I am not sure if it came like this out of the box or perhaps something I did on my first run with it yesterday. I noticed that the wheel isn't going straight. Is this normal or is there something going on over here. I took a few videos and pics. Please see link below.

Pics and Video here

 

[pug]

The hex might be loose, the steering assembly and hex is sloppy out of the box, you could try adding shims to the hex to try to alleviate it a bit.

 

[thabigo]

The hex might be loose, the steering assembly and hex is sloppy out of the box, you could try adding shims to the hex to try to alleviate it a bit.

Already tried that hex seems like it's in there tight

 

[pug]

You might want to put some shims between the hex and driveshaft. Not sure what size since I have never done it and I’m fine with the way it is in my Typhon 3s. I do street running and it doesn’t have any bad effects on handling.

 

[Velodromed]

Watch the videos at the top of the 4x4 section. RTR rc cars are not assembled well. Sounds like that front axle is coming loose from the drive shaft already. Need to tighten the axel to the driveshaft on all your wheels and several other things to avoid damage.

Go find those threads at the top of the 4x4 section and begin wrenching.

 

[thabigo]

Watch the videos at the top of the 4x4 section. RTR rc cars are not assembled well. Sounds like that front axle is coming loose from the drive shaft already. Need to tighten the axel to the driveshaft on all your wheels and several other things to avoid damage.

Go find those threads at the top of the 4x4 section and begin wrenching.

Thanks will do. It looks like there is more play on the front driver side. Looks like possible bearing?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wubFKf3jN5TatB1k8

 

[*420+3RC*]

Hey guys,

I just picked up my first basher from Amazon a couple of days of go since they have been on sale. I am not sure if it came like this out of the box or perhaps something I did on my first run with it yesterday. I noticed that the wheel isn't going straight. Is this normal or is there something going on over here. I took a few videos and pics. Please see link below.

Pics and Video here

The pics look fine. Outward toe upfront. Inward toe in rear. Helps frive straight lines. The wobble does look a bit much imo. Check drive axles and driveshafts are tight and locktite them

 

[Engineer]

Before you go through all the hexes, shafts, etc. Check the wheels to make sure they are round/true - ideally find a dowel that's about the same diameter as the opening and spin the wheel on it to make sure they are good. Sometimes these wheels get all warped. Make sure the hexes are in good shape and flat too - take them off and re-install them with care (making sure the go on the hex squarely and the hex nut isn't overtightened). Who knows how they were assembled on the line...

 

[pug]

My Typhon 3s has had wheel wobble ever since I first took it out of the box almost a year ago now. It hasn’t created any issues for me, the shafts are tightened and tl’ed, it still has the issue. If it‘s really causing issues, stick some shims in between the driveshaft and wheel hex.

 

[Velodromed]

Thanks will do. It looks like there is more play on the front driver side. Looks like possible bearing?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wubFKf3jN5TatB1k8

Hey again. I didn’t have time to mention earlier that it could be a slightly bent axle (I have several wheels on my different cars like this from jumping, it doesn’t really bug me) or a bearing or some thing loose also. Going to have to take it apart to troubleshoot it. Keep in mind that these cars are bashers and unless you get in to speed runs perfectly tuned suspension wheel set up etc. just aren’t needed.

The only difference between your v3 (version 3) brushed mega and the brushless 3S line is the motor, spur and ESC. Otherwise it’s the same…the suspension, drive line etc. I started off with a mega (long sense converted to brushless) so am familiar with them. If you got it with that $200 Amazon special you got a darn good deal.

Typhon uses 17 mm hex hubs while the other 3S (and mega) models use 14 mm. But the way it’s attached to the driveshaft and the bearing set up is basically the same, just the actual stub axle is different.

Razor RC on YouTube has some of the best videos for maintaining rc cars and fixing things. I watched everything he has on the Arrma 3S line while learning. Check those out as well as reading through all stickies (Those are the threads posted at the top of the 4 x 4 section I mentioned earlier.)

So pull apart that front hub and inspect. I have even had fishing line get wound up in there or Spanish Moss. So it could be more than one thing so pull it apart. Take pictures at each stage as you take things apart and mark the screws So you know which screws go where to avoid those ‘where the hell does this go?’ headaches.

Do you have any tools yet? Hopefully you have something to get you started… And whatever you do don’t get frustrated because there’s tons of people here that’ll help you if you get stuck.

Oh… welcome to the forum and merry Christmas Eve!

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Sometimes the wheel wobble is simply the plastic rim is bent. I know the Duratrax tires I run on my Granite have one rim bent. The tire wobbles, but the truck is a basher, so I don't care. If I was racing, or speed running, I would care, but then also I would not be running RTR or Duratrax rim while racing.

 

[thabigo]

Hey again. I didn’t have time to mention earlier that it could be a slightly bent axle (I have several wheels on my different cars like this from jumping, it doesn’t really bug me) or a bearing or some thing loose also. Going to have to take it apart to troubleshoot it. Keep in mind that these cars are bashers and unless you get in to speed runs perfectly tuned suspension wheel set up etc. just aren’t needed.

The only difference between your v3 (version 3) brushed mega and the brushless 3S line is the motor, spur and ESC. Otherwise it’s the same…the suspension, drive line etc. I started off with a mega (long sense converted to brushless) so am familiar with them. If you got it with that $200 Amazon special you got a darn good deal.

Typhon uses 17 mm hex hubs while the other 3S (and mega) models use 14 mm. But the way it’s attached to the driveshaft and the bearing set up is basically the same, just the actual stub axle is different.

Razor RC on YouTube has some of the best videos for maintaining rc cars and fixing things. I watched everything he has on the Arrma 3S line while learning. Check those out as well as reading through all stickies (Those are the threads posted at the top of the 4 x 4 section I mentioned earlier.)

So pull apart that front hub and inspect. I have even had fishing line get wound up in there or Spanish Moss. So it could be more than one thing so pull it apart. Take pictures at each stage as you take things apart and mark the screws So you know which screws go where to avoid those ‘where the hell does this go?’ headaches.

Do you have any tools yet? Hopefully you have something to get you started… And whatever you do don’t get frustrated because there’s tons of people here that’ll help you if you get stuck.

Oh… welcome to the forum and merry Christmas Eve!

Great response! Thanks Velodromed appreciate all the input. I've been watching a bunch of YouTube videos just to get familiar with the hobby and my particular vehicle, I'll have to check out that channel. Been working on cars and PCs since I was little so I have no problem taking things apart. I don't believe I have a proper tool setup for R/C tho anything you could recommend to that regards would be great!

I've been having fun with my dog chasing the R/C one of the reasons I got one besides finding the Amazon deal on Slick deals. But I think I might need to go with either upgrading to a 3s Brushless Motor or just getting a 3sBLX instead now.(Dog is too fast lol) I found a good deal for a new 3sBLX for $280 so if it's all legit I'll probably just pull the trigger on that one. But for now I'll keep tinkering with this one. It seemed to be running pretty good earlier today.

Here some videos for your entertainment.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wnVH3HNhERoYo13B9

And Merry Christmas to everyone thanks for all the input as well.

 

[Velodromed]

Great response! Thanks Velodromed appreciate all the input. I've been watching a bunch of YouTube videos just to get familiar with the hobby and my particular vehicle, I'll have to check out that channel. Been working on cars and PCs since I was little so I have no problem taking things apart. I don't believe I have a proper tool setup for R/C tho anything you could recommend to that regards would be great!

I've been having fun with my dog chasing the R/C one of the reasons I got one besides finding the Amazon deal on Slick deals. But I think I might need to go with either upgrading to a 3s Brushless Motor or just getting a 3sBLX instead now.(Dog is too fast lol) I found a good deal for a new 3sBLX for $280 so if it's all legit I'll probably just pull the trigger on that one. But for now I'll keep tinkering with this one. It seemed to be running pretty good earlier today.

Here some videos for your entertainment.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wnVH3HNhERoYo13B9

And Merry Christmas to everyone thanks for all the input as well.

Thanks and a very merry Christmas to you as well! I think that it would be a great idea to pull the trigger on a BLX version especially at that good deal. Your brushed version is great for parts, Which you will need once you are running brushless lol, or, like you said, you could take on converting it. I converted my mega granite to brushless and absolutely loved the experience. It taught me my car inside out. Since then I have done quite a few upgrades and set it up for jumping. it is one of my favorites. I beat the living heck out of it and rarely break a thing.

My 3s typhon that I got a few months ago is the fastest car I have. It blows my mind every time I drive it how fast and nimble it is. I put belted MX28s on it ($100 but worth it) And it totally rips. The belted versions of those tires are thinner, like the stock buggy tires, and just a touch taller adding a little bit more ground clearance. And they’re Belted so they don’t balloon out of control.

MIP are the absolute best. Do not get the Ball end version. What you mainly need is the 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5. They come in a set for 40 to 50 bucks I think. They also come in a set of speed bits if you use an electric driver Be very careful about an electric driver though as it’s easy to strip the plastic with the force. Use them to get it mostly in and then do the rest of my hand.

You do need a different 2 mm hex wrench though to reach the secure screws that hold the axle to the driveshaft. That’s the only bummer about MIP, they’re not quite long enough. The only decent cheap set I’ve found is called Neewer, 1.2, 2.0 and 2.5, Off of Amazon for 14 bucks. They are way better than all the other cheap hex wrenches on Amazon that I tried. I actually use them for daily quick fixes and pull out the MIP for serious wrenching. They are also good enough to get you started until you can swing MIPs if you’re tight financially right now. I strongly suggest getting shock pliers

Also get familiar with jennysrc.com. They are a parts breaker and it’s the best place to get reasonably priced stock parts. Say you decided to update your mega to brushless. Go here, like I did. All you need is the motor, ESC, metal turn buckles and spur assembly. When you do buy off there it’s best to get bulk since shipping is at least five bucks no matter what you get. In the beginning I built up spare hardware, hexes, arms, differentials, c-cups and so forth. I hate downtime and love to wrench. So I have enough parts to build one and a half more cars literally. Use code JRC for 5% off at check out.

Be careful about jumping on the upgrade train. Something that somebody said quite a while back when I first joined this site was ‘everybody on here has spent a ridiculous amount on their cars and they want you to as well!’ And to a certain extent that’s true. I strongly suggest driving your car stock for a while to figure out what you’d like. But before doing that, follow all of the recommendation and everything you need to do to fix how sloppily they are thrown together at the factory. That’s where those posts (called sticky’s) at the top of the 4 x 4 section come in handy.

Once you figure out your driving style… are you a speedster and wanna go fast? Are you a jumper and want to send that thing high? Do you prefer to rip ground in the dirt like crazy throwing up dust cutting corners… you know what I mean. Then you’ll want to upgrade your car in accordance with your driving style. Just keep in mind that these cars are most durable when they’re kept light. So things like alloy parts all over everything blinging it out etc will make it heavy. Additionally, if you strengthen up certain parts you’re simply call stress to the next weekest link. For example, alloy arms tend to cause breakage at the chassis. So enjoy it while it’s stock as you figure out your driving style.

I also run my dog with an RC car (I can no longer run myself due to fused cervical spine). He has his own though. He likes to catch it and chew on it… So I got him a Holyton (DEERC) off of Amazon 2 years back and it’s perfect. Also it’s not powerful enough to hurt his mouth because he only goes for the tires. Tried my granite one time and it messed his tongue up a bit.

Merry Christmas buddy!

 

[thabigo]

Thanks and a very merry Christmas to you as well! I think that it would be a great idea to pull the trigger on a BLX version especially at that good deal. Your brushed version is great for parts, Which you will need once you are running brushless lol, or, like you said, you could take on converting it. I converted my mega granite to brushless and absolutely loved the experience. It taught me my car inside out. Since then I have done quite a few upgrades and set it up for jumping. it is one of my favorites. I beat the living heck out of it and rarely break a thing.

My 3s typhon that I got a few months ago is the fastest car I have. It blows my mind every time I drive it how fast and nimble it is. I put belted MX28s on it ($100 but worth it) And it totally rips. The belted versions of those tires are thinner, like the stock buggy tires, and just a touch taller adding a little bit more ground clearance. And they’re Belted so they don’t balloon out of control.

MIP are the absolute best. Do not get the Ball end version. What you mainly need is the 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5. They come in a set for 40 to 50 bucks I think. They also come in a set of speed bits if you use an electric driver Be very careful about an electric driver though as it’s easy to strip the plastic with the force. Use them to get it mostly in and then do the rest of my hand.

You do need a different 2 mm hex wrench though to reach the secure screws that hold the axle to the driveshaft. That’s the only bummer about MIP, they’re not quite long enough. The only decent cheap set I’ve found is called Neewer, 1.2, 2.0 and 2.5, Off of Amazon for 14 bucks. They are way better than all the other cheap hex wrenches on Amazon that I tried. I actually use them for daily quick fixes and pull out the MIP for serious wrenching. They are also good enough to get you started until you can swing MIPs if you’re tight financially right now. I strongly suggest getting shock pliers

Also get familiar with jennysrc.com. They are a parts breaker and it’s the best place to get reasonably priced stock parts. Say you decided to update your mega to brushless. Go here, like I did. All you need is the motor, ESC, metal turn buckles and spur assembly. When you do buy off there it’s best to get bulk since shipping is at least five bucks no matter what you get. In the beginning I built up spare hardware, hexes, arms, differentials, c-cups and so forth. I hate downtime and love to wrench. So I have enough parts to build one and a half more cars literally. Use code JRC for 5% off at check out.

Be careful about jumping on the upgrade train. Something that somebody said quite a while back when I first joined this site was ‘everybody on here has spent a ridiculous amount on their cars and they want you to as well!’ And to a certain extent that’s true. I strongly suggest driving your car stock for a while to figure out what you’d like. But before doing that, follow all of the recommendation and everything you need to do to fix how sloppily they are thrown together at the factory. That’s where those posts (called sticky’s) at the top of the 4 x 4 section come in handy.

Once you figure out your driving style… are you a speedster and wanna go fast? Are you a jumper and want to send that thing high? Do you prefer to rip ground in the dirt like crazy throwing up dust cutting corners… you know what I mean. Then you’ll want to upgrade your car in accordance with your driving style. Just keep in mind that these cars are most durable when they’re kept light. So things like alloy parts all over everything blinging it out etc will make it heavy. Additionally, if you strengthen up certain parts you’re simply call stress to the next weekest link. For example, alloy arms tend to cause breakage at the chassis. So enjoy it while it’s stock as you figure out your driving style.

I also run my dog with an RC car (I can no longer run myself due to fused cervical spine). He has his own though. He likes to catch it and chew on it… So I got him a Holyton (DEERC) off of Amazon 2 years back and it’s perfect. Also it’s not powerful enough to hurt his mouth because he only goes for the tires. Tried my granite one time and it messed his tongue up a bit.

Merry Christmas buddy!

Yea I just looked up the MIP and they are $45 for a set of 3 the 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm. That does seem steep for just 3 tools but if they are the best in the industry I could understand why. I am a fan of DeWalt and found this kit for $20.DeWalt tool set that seems pretty good for what you get. What are your thoughts?

Ive seen Jenny's R/C already and it's amazing there business model of buying new R/C's, parting them and selling OEM parts for half the price of what they usually cost. I wish they did this for real cars lol.

I was pricing out the 3s Firma motor, ESC and spur gear and it was about $123.00 so that would out me at a total cost of $335.00 for an 3s build. Would would save me about $50 if I would to buy a brand new 3s (that's the cost of a new 3s battery) so it's not bad you save more if I were to covert to a 6s or 4s powerplant. 4s I think would make the most sense as the 6s Typhon has many more components that are stronger which I would have to upgrade so I don't break anything on the Mega 550. But again it I can scoop that 3s on sale for $290 then that's a no brainer. Thanks for letting me know about the code .

Yea right now I've done some jumps here and there and a small backyard course my pops made behind his townhouse. I definitely like the courses, speed and jumps. I guess I like it all lol.

 

[Velodromed]

Yea I just looked up the MIP and they are $45 for a set of 3 the 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm. That does seem steep for just 3 tools but if they are the best in the industry I could understand why. I am a fan of DeWalt and found this kit for $20.DeWalt tool set that seems pretty good for what you get. What are your thoughts?

Ive seen Jenny's R/C already and it's amazing there business model of buying new R/C's, parting them and selling OEM parts for half the price of what they usually cost. I wish they did this for real cars lol.

I was pricing out the 3s Firma motor, ESC and spur gear and it was about $123.00 so that would out me at a total cost of $335.00 for an 3s build. Would would save me about $50 if I would to buy a brand new 3s (that's the cost of a new 3s battery) so it's not bad you save more if I were to covert to a 6s or 4s powerplant. 4s I think would make the most sense as the 6s Typhon has many more components that are stronger which I would have to upgrade so I don't break anything on the Mega 550. But again it I can scoop that 3s on sale for $290 then that's a no brainer. Thanks for letting me know about the code .

Yea right now I've done some jumps here and there and a small backyard course my pops made behind his townhouse. I definitely like the courses, speed and jumps. I guess I like it all lol.

I don’t know anything about DeWalt tools. Sounds like you’re well on your way to join in the obsession! Yeah if you can get a new 3s Arrma for 290 That’s a damn good deal.