Vendetta Arrma Vendetta 4x4 3s BLX (a beginners speed car?)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If anyone puts a list of parts needed to turn the Senton 3S into the Infraction 4X4 mega, please post the list. I have a Senton 3S and am thinking about converting it to an Infraction 3S.
Gonna be a really long and expensive list to make it happen. Easier to buy the Infraction Mega and swap the electronics as others have said. You could sell the Senton Mega to recoup your investment and be well ahead of the long list of parts you’ll need.
 
If anyone puts a list of parts needed to turn the Senton 3S into the Infraction 4X4 mega, please post the list. I have a Senton 3S and am thinking about converting it to an Infraction 3S.

Gonna be a really long and expensive list to make it happen. Easier to buy the Infraction Mega and swap the electronics as others have said. You could sell the Senton Mega to recoup your investment and be well ahead of the long list of parts you’ll need.
Or buy the Vendetta and put the Infraction body and wheels on it.
 
One main put off about the Vendetta is the tire ballooning. Not belted. No other choices out there. And the Infr. tires are useless.
Seems like an odd size wheel also. Like it wants to be a 1/8 size TC tire/wheel. Proprietary. (85mm x 35mm 14mm hex) Which doesn't exist anywhere else. Last I checked.:unsure:

ARA550093​

Elevens are $24./pair. And show pre-order status.
Imagine waiting 6 months to get replacement tires. It happened before with the Rear Felony Hoons when it was first released.
 
Last edited:
One main put off about the Vendetta is the tire ballooning. Not belted. No other choices out there. And the Infr. tires are useless.
Seems like an odd size wheel also. Like it wants to be a 1/8 size TC tire/wheel. Proprietary. (85mm x 35mm 14mm hex) Which doesn't exist anywhere else. Last I checked.:unsure:

ARA550093​

Elevens are $24./pair. And show pre-order status.
Imagine waiting 6 months to get replacement tires. It happened before with the Rear Felony Hoons when it was first released.

The big question is if you use the Typhon 3s 17mm wheel hex can the GRP 98mm tires fit the Vendetta body.
That alone will add about 10-15 mph to the top speed.
 
One main put off about the Vendetta is the tire ballooning. Not belted. No other choices out there. And the Infr. tires are useless.
Seems like an odd size wheel also. Like it wants to be a 1/8 size TC tire/wheel. Proprietary. (85mm x 35mm 14mm hex) Which doesn't exist anywhere else. Last I checked.:unsure:

ARA550093​

Elevens are $24./pair. And show pre-order status.
Imagine waiting 6 months to get replacement tires. It happened before with the Rear Felony Hoons when it was first released.
Why not swap to 12mm hexes and run 1/10 scale foams?
 
I'm still working on maxing out the 3200, but I'm sure I'll grab that 3900 at some point. Single passes, must break in between. I'm learning.

It's not the standard 3s slipper. If I'm not mistaken, it's the same as the one they use on the Mega. Either way, we have new options for spurs on our current 3s models.
View attachment 175398
That slipper design functions very differently from the normal 3S BLX range, the normal ones allow front and back to slip independently that one has front and back locked together like a locked centre diff.
 
Why not swap to 12mm hexes and run 1/10 scale foams?
Do you have any foams to test fit on one of your existing 3s models?
I worry about the internal diameter of the 1/10 foam wheel may not fit over the hub and upper arm.
 
That slipper design functions very differently from the normal 3S BLX range, the normal ones allow front and back to slip independently that one has front and back locked together like a locked centre diff.
That is exactly what I'm looking for. The more "locked" it is, the better. My Granite has a homemade spool right now and it is taking a beating. Drilled three holes through the two ends of the slipper and added a plastic 45t spur. The new Vendetta one might give me something similar without all the extra work. I can easily bore out the center of just about any spur to accomodate.
 
Do you have any foams to test fit on one of your existing 3s models?
I worry about the internal diameter of the 1/10 foam wheel may not fit over the hub and upper arm.
I only have 1:8 17mm foams to try
 
Why not swap to 12mm hexes and run 1/10 scale foams?
1/10 foams are too small.
I saw in the video that HH plans to sell a Hoon upgrade belted tire for this.. Not much stated though. Not listed yet as an option part.
These are an odd size tire.(n)
If changing the hex adapters to 17mm there may be offset issues to consider..IDK
You wont find a 17mm hex wheel/tire to fit these bodies.:unsure:
A 1/8 size upgrade TC tire and wheel doesn't exist? Exclusive to this Arrma. 85mm x35mm.
 
Got mine ordered will be my first speed run /carpark ripper. Made sense for me to order this as I have 3s arrma’s and know how to wrench on them. Plus I have a lot of 3s battery’s.
 
I think it's less of a wearing down and a suddenly it's eaten and gone. And I know you may believe the yoke to be fine but after I killed my first one, I replaced everything but the Yoke and suddenly had binding issues in my differential. Loosening the bolts in the yoke didn't help. The actual yoke itself was slightly warped. Once I threw a new plastic yoke in, it worked fine. And to be clear, I bought an entire differential and input gear from Jenny's RC to rule any of those pieces out. It was the Yoke's fault for the binding I had afterwards.


So recap, I jumped the car, landed on throttle, terrible noises. I opened it up, the input was rounded. I tried just replacing the input, had binding, replaced the plastic diff housing, had binding. Ordered a new input and differential and used the same yoke. Had binding. Took it to my LHS to ask them if they could help me figure it out. Suggested the yoke to the one shopkeep and he goes no no, shouldn't be that! Needless to say when I showed up 5 hours later and bought one, not only was he surprised, but my issue went away too.

So when you eat the input gear, there is a chance you torque the yoke and it gets warped. It ends up being a different issue, but still an issue you have to correct or deal with the rotational hangup noise/power leech.

Now if the hot racing aluminum yoke doesn't prevent the gears from dying, It's onto the Arrma CNC stuff for me. And I've only had this issue on my Senton, the Granite has been fine but I don't run that one on 3s. I've been playing with my senton outside 2x daily for the past few weeks. Ripping 40-50 mph up and down my alley and launching across the neighbors yard. Just my 2 cents and my experience.
☝ this hapoened to me also. Got @Velodromed to send me new stock yokes. Been fine as frog hair since. 👍
 
1/10 foams are too small.
I saw in the video that HH plans to sell a Hoon upgrade belted tire for this.. Not much stated though. Not listed yet as an option part.
These are an odd size tire.(n)
If changing the hex adapters to 17mm there may be offset issues to consider..IDK
You wont find a 17mm hex wheel/tire to fit these bodies.:unsure:
A 1/8 size upgrade TC tire and wheel doesn't exist? Exclusive to this Arrma. 85mm x35mm.
Well you can always take the stock Elevens and have them skinned in foam. Rick at Gone Bananas is more than capable.
 
Got mine ordered will be my first speed run /carpark ripper. Made sense for me to order this as I have 3s arrma’s and know how to wrench on them. Plus I have a lot of 3s battery’s.
If you have many 3s lipos, why not use them in tandem ( series) with a 6s line Lim?
Easy to wrench on a 6s rig also.
That's like a car mechanic saying he only knows how to wrench/ repair a Chevy.:LOL:
Is he really any mechanic at all?:cool:
RC's are all the same.
Sometimes its good to get out of your comfort zone.
Will find out that your missing out on things.
 
If you have many 3s lipos, why not use them in tandem ( series) with a 6s line Lim?
Easy to wrench on a 6s rig also.
That's like a car mechanic saying he only knows how to wrench/ repair a Chevy.:LOL:
Is he really any mechanic at all?:cool:
RC's are all the same.
Sometimes its good to get out of your comfort zone.
Will find out that your missing out on things.

I second that. If you only wrench on 3S cars, I think you're missing out.

Working on the 3S is easy and everything can get repaired quickly, but I always find that stuff like pulling the power module (always jammed in there), accessing the servo, accessing and working on diffs can be a bit annoying.

On the 6S, wrenching often requires a bit more time, but I find it much more fun and satisfying.
 
I have a broad collection of RC cars here.
6s is by far NOT the hardest to work on by comparison.:LOL: Far from it.
The 6s line is pretty much a mainstream RC 1/8 truggy design. It works. That's why it is often considered the best RC platform.
At least I think that way.(y)
 
Think this might be the problem with the rounded gears:

The 13T input gear has two bearings on it. If the first bearing is not totally pressed against the input gear then the second bearing will push the input gear against the differential case. Happened to me today. Installed the pinion, short drive, noise. Opened up, pressed the first bearing down, fine.

The trick when installing is to make the distance between the two bearings too small. So that the second bearing will slide in position on the yoke.

If the distance is too big between the two bearings when you insert the input gear, the input gear will fit into the yoke but the input gear will press against the side of the differential casing.

So the first bearing (the one right you put on first) has to fit tightly against the input gear. It will dictate the position of the second bearing on the input gear. So that the input gear will not press against the side of the differentical casing.

This might be the reason for a rounded input gear. To much resistance but the engine puts force on the drive train.

In the XMaxx the input gear is so loose in the bearings that it can actually pulled out once the differential is out. It automatically finds its position in relation to the differential. That's how they solved it.
 
Last edited:
Think this might be the problem with the rounded gears:

The 13T input gear has two bearings on it. If the first bearing is not totally pressed against the input gear then the second bearing will push the input gear against the differential case. Happened to me today. Installed the pinion, short drive, noise. Opened up, pressed the first bearing down, fine.

The trick when installing is to make the distance between the two bearings too small. So that the second bearing will slide in position on the yoke.

If the distance is too big between the two bearings when you insert the input gear, the input gear will fit into the yoke but the input gear will press against the side of the differential casing.

So the first bearing (the one right you put on first) has to fit tightly against the input gear. It will dictate the position of the second bearing on the input gear. So that the input gear will not press against the side of the differentical casing.

This might be the reason for a rounded input gear. To much resistance but the engine puts force on the drive train.
Yes sir. Good point. I had trouble getting the 1st bearing all the way down before. It def will not let the gears and yoke act as it should.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top