Raider Arrma versions in the past

[Sonic_striker]

Hi,
I just bought and fixed a used Arrma Raider and during some parts searching I noticed that Arrma did some weird things regarding the updates they did.
At least they did not document it very well.
Does anyone have an overview of the versions and revisions from the early arrmas?

 

[Sonic_striker]

Btw, i think mine is a 2013 model?
It has the ATX100 sender

 

[slick2500]

I think @biggman100 has had every version or knows the differences between the versions.

 

[biggman100]

Sorry I haven't gotten to this. I have been extremely busy lately. There are two versions of the Raider, the Raider SWB, and Raider XL LWB. Anyway, the biggest differences between the two versions are the chassis and rear differential. If yours is the SWB or LWB two piece chassis, it has the metal diff, and parts are non-existent, but, if you absolutely have to, you can search my posts about the Fury on here for how to upgrade the metal diff. If you have either the SWB or LWB one piece chassis, pretty much every part you will ever need for it is available on eBay. Both versions share pretty much every part with the original 2WD lineup (Fury, ADX-10 (very rare), Granite (not the new 4WD version), Mojave (again, very rare, but is basically a clone of the Fury), Raider, Raider XL, and the original 2WD Vorteks). If you have the newer plastic diff, I would suggest keeping at least one full spare on hand, especially if you ever go brushless, as even a mild brushless setup isn't easy on that diff. You can also still get certain aluminum parts, as well as RPM parts for it, but, again, eBay is the only source for them. This is my latest Fury project: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/original-arrma-fury-not-the-one-they-just-released.73200/ and, everything on that will work on your Raider. This post adds a bit more details: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-identifying-chassis.59644/ Since the Raider shares most parts with the original Fury, a search for that will give you a ton of help on yours, but, absolutely nothing on the new Fury will work for your Raider. Here are also the original manuals for the original 2WD lineup, that you can download, which will help immensely with part numbers (some times, the only way to find a part for them is by part number), https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-fury-manuals.4/

 

[Sonic_striker]

Wow, many thanks!
It sheds some light on the early days from Arrma.
My Raider is a SWB with the two piece chassis.
So it’s one of the earlier versions
I also have a Granite and Fury with the single piece chassis.

I noticed a lot is available on EBay like you said, unfortunately most of it is from USA, ( and I’m from Europe )

Anyway, I’m going to have a look in the treads you provided

 

[slick2500]

Wow, many thanks!
It sheds some light on the early days from Arrma.
My Raider is a SWB with the two piece chassis.
So it’s one of the earlier versions
I also have a Granite and Fury with the single piece chassis.

I noticed a lot is available on EBay like you said, unfortunately most of it is from USA, ( and I’m from Europe )

Anyway, I’m going to have a look in the treads you provided

I have the same issue with one of my rc cars, there are plenty of parts for it on eBay but they are all in Australia for some reason. Nothing like paying $30 in shipping for a $5 part.

 

[biggman100]

Wow, many thanks!
It sheds some light on the early days from Arrma.
My Raider is a SWB with the two piece chassis.
So it’s one of the earlier versions
I also have a Granite and Fury with the single piece chassis.

I noticed a lot is available on EBay like you said, unfortunately most of it is from USA, ( and I’m from Europe )

Anyway, I’m going to have a look in the treads you provided

If someone hasn't already done it, you can upgrade the problem prone metal rear diff with the newer plastic drivetrain, but, that means replacing the entire transmission and internals. An easier, but pricey option, if you can source the parts, is to replace the metal gear diff with the ball diff from the HPI Blitz (just don't install it backwards like I initially did). Another option, if you can find them in your area, is to buy a couple complete newer one piece chassis (parts from either the SWB or LWB will work as spares for all three of your vehicles), and use it for parts. The reason I say plan to replace the metal diff, is because it has a ton of problems, from washers that cone, or outright break, and cause the diff to lock up completely, to gears that literally explode, and destroy the gear casing. Because of the issues with the metal diff, I have one original Fury that has the metal diff, that never gets taken off the shelf. I have a habit of buying parts chassis, and keeping what I need from them, as well as, at times, building different trucks from a bare chassis (haven't done that in quite awhile though). Either way, in my opinion, as long as you don't go crazy overboard power wise with them (there are several newer trucks that are better for that), they can be a lot of fun, but, at times, the 2WD can make them frustrating, because they can be a handful handling wise. In case you haven't already, I would suggest investing in a toe gauge, and a caster gauge. It's a pain to do, but, setting toe, and front and rear caster can immensely help with the way they drive. There are posts on here about how to do it, as well as the correct settings.

 

[Sonic_striker]

I don’t plan to upgrade the Raider so Stock it should last a bit or not

The Fury and Granite (plastic) only have a 12T motor

I’ll look into the hpi Blitz diff, thanks!!

 

[Sonic_striker]

I have the same issue with one of my rc cars, there are plenty of parts for it on eBay but they are all in Australia for some reason. Nothing like paying $30 in shipping for a $5 part.

I asked one seller to combine items, even that was not possible

 

[biggman100]

I don’t plan to upgrade the Raider so Stock it should last a bit or not

The Fury and Granite (plastic) only have a 12T motor

I’ll look into the hpi Blitz diff, thanks!!

Honestly, it entirely depends on how much, and how hard you run it. With the metal diff, you never know when it will fail. An easy way to tell whether it has the stock metal diff, or the plastic newer diff is to look at where the spur and pinion are. If there is a metal plate behind the spur, on the outside of the transmission, it's most likely the original failure prone metal diff. There are actually a bunch of posts on here that pertains to just that diff. This post shows where I upgrade to the MIP HPI Blitz ball diff: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/2013-arrma-fury-diff-parts-questions.15935/
A search under my name for fury diff will also bring up a few other posts about it, including one where a guy used Losi 22S parts as an upgrade, but, I don't know how well it held up.

This is the plate that will be on the transmission if it has the original metal diff:

 

[Sonic_striker]

Honestly, it entirely depends on how much, and how hard you run it. With the metal diff, you never know when it will fail. An easy way to tell whether it has the stock metal diff, or the plastic newer diff is to look at where the spur and pinion are. If there is a metal plate behind the spur, on the outside of the transmission, it's most likely the original failure prone metal diff. There are actually a bunch of posts on here that pertains to just that diff. This post shows where I upgrade to the MIP HPI Blitz ball diff: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/2013-arrma-fury-diff-parts-questions.15935/
A search under my name for fury diff will also bring up a few other posts about it, including one where a guy used Losi 22S parts as an upgrade, but, I don't know how well it held up.

This is the plate that will be on the transmission if it has the original metal diff:
View attachment 419068

On my Raider, this is exactly the case.

On the Granite and Furey they have the all plastic parts

I did find some parts this week at a small hobbystore 1 of which was the Idlergear plus diff case and one was the gears inside.

I also got a few more parts that they sold for only 1 Euro each, so took it all

 

[biggman100]

If you do decide to replace the original metal diff with the plastic one, you will need the transmission housing, diff case, internal gears, and the idlers. None of the parts from the original diff are interchangeable with the newer plastic one. If I remember right, there are metal upgrade idlers for the plastic diff, but It will take me a day or two to go through all my notes for the Fury. I do know that every part from the original HPI Blitz will fit the original transmission housing, but those parts if you can find them, are outrageously priced anymore. I cheated and picked up a used Blitz slider, since rebuild kits for the ball diff are still available, but even those are getting a bit pricey.

 

[RC Detail]

Still regret giving mine to a buddy.

I had a blast with it.