Arrma Vorteks 3S BLX build thread.

[bukshypro]

My heart is jumping out actually cant wait to try it

 

[bukshypro]

Any clue whats up here?

 

[Pepaw18]

Any clue whats up here?

Not sure but mine started and sounded like that after I put on my new Duratrax Lockup 2.8. I still have mine apart and right now all I'm changing is the pinion gear to a 16T. Then checking F/B diffs and changing the diff oil. Then put it all back together and see how it sounds afterwards. I'll post video once back too

 

[bukshypro]

Not sure but mine started and sounded like that after I put on my new Duratrax Lockup 2.8. I still have mine apart and right now all I'm changing is the pinion gear to a 16T. Then checking F/B diffs and changing the diff oil. Then put it all back together and see how it sounds afterwards. I'll post video once back too

Hmm, thats actually a good tip. I could try and put back stock tyres. I thought my diff is gone. Because I put on bigger tyres, its still on 18T and i was doing full throttle in the grass. So might have just eaten up the diff. Got the diff replacements anyway and bought new pinion gears too.

If I only had other than grass and tarmac around me

 

[Pepaw18]

Hmm, thats actually a good tip. I could try and put back stock tyres. I thought my diff is gone. Because I put on bigger tyres, its still on 18T and i was doing full throttle in the grass. So might have just eaten up the diff. Got the diff replacements anyway and bought new pinion gears too.

If I only had other than grass and tarmac around me

Let me know if your diffs were damaged. I have taken mine apart yet. Hope all goes well.

 

[bukshypro]

Let me know if your diffs were damaged. I have taken mine apart yet. Hope all goes well.

hey pal.
I didn't have the time and items yet to take it apart, since I don't have the lubricant to put back in. I ordered it and arrives tomorrow. I did change one thing tho, I put in a 15T pinion gear and it does the same thing, with same - bigger - tyres. My suspicion is the following:
- in grass, the car is going with top RPM only, because there is no traction. the tyres can't really hold the power of the motor back and the diff just couldn't handle it anymore. I tightened the hex that directly connects the drive shaft to the diff, but I don't think that had anything to do with it. I will be able to tell more in a few days, but I suspect I destroyed the diff.


edit. You know, I actually thought aboht this. Of course I broke the diff if I ran big tyres on 18T. The stock tyres on both Big Rock and Granite BLX are a tad smaller and both of those cars are shipped with 15T pinions. 18T is waaaaaay too much w the Jetko Tomahawks/Louise Mt Cross

 

[Pepaw18]

hey pal.
I didn't have the time and items yet to take it apart, since I don't have the lubricant to put back in. I ordered it and arrives tomorrow. I did change one thing tho, I put in a 15T pinion gear and it does the same thing, with same - bigger - tyres. My suspicion is the following:
- in grass, the car is going with top RPM only, because there is no traction. the tyres can't really hold the power of the motor back and the diff just couldn't handle it anymore. I tightened the hex that directly connects the drive shaft to the diff, but I don't think that had anything to do with it. I will be able to tell more in a few days, but I suspect I destroyed the diff.


edit. You know, I actually thought aboht this. Of course I broke the diff if I ran big tyres on 18T. The stock tyres on both Big Rock and Granite BLX are a tad smaller and both of those cars are shipped with 15T pinions. 18T is waaaaaay too much w the Jetko Tomahawks/Louise Mt Cross

Good to know. I will definitely start tearing down the diffs and checking them today then. Might have to make and order too today

 

[bukshypro]

Good to know. I will definitely start tearing down the diffs and checking them today then. Might have to make and order too today

hey man,
looking at some videos, there might be an easier fix too. it might be smth wrong with the slipper clutch too. (before you take your diff apart)

 

[Pepaw18]

hey man,
looking at some videos, there might be an easier fix too. it might be smth wrong with the slipper clutch too. (before you take your diff apart)

I have taken it apart. And clean really good. I haven't put the 16t pinion gear in it yet. Waiting on the part. Also what the thought on a metal spur gear. I was told to stay with the plastic gear.

 

[bukshypro]

I have taken it apart. And clean really good. I haven't put the 16t pinion gear in it yet. Waiting on the part. Also what the thought on a metal spur gear. I was told to stay with the plastic gear.

I ve either read or seen in a video, that if you want to use a metal spur gear, you gotta use a specific only metal pinion gear, cuz the stock ones have a nikkel coating which is good vs plastic, but it will wear off vs metal. So do your research

I also don't know whats the difference between the black pinion gears and the metal (or stock) pinion gears

 

[Pepaw18]

Ok thanks for that info. Was just curious if it was a better way to go. I'll look into the difference in pinion gear material.

 

[bukshypro]

Ok thanks for that info. Was just curious if it was a better way to go. I'll look into the difference in pinion gear material.

Heya, I think I found the culprits

 

[Velodromed]

Heya, I think I found the culprits

View attachment 259628

View attachment 259629

Did you shim the diff? There should be a shim on the non ring gear side when new and it will need to be removed or switched to the ring gear side as it wears. On a couple of occasions I had to switch the shim to the ring gear side when new to tighten up the mesh. Unlike the pinion/spur you do not want any play between the input/ring gear.

I absolutely love hot racing metal diff yokes. It’s the first thing I do to a new 3s car, at least on the rear diff if funds are short. They help the composite diffs last much longer by reducing flex in that area so the mesh stays tight. They are pricy but worth it.

The diff/input gears need to be checked every 3-5 weeks, depending on use. Clean the gunky old grease out (especially between the gear teeth where it compacts), check/lubricate or change bearings, put new grease in and check if the shim needs to be moved or removed. The diff oil itself doesn’t need to be changed near as often. In fact I rarely change it out.

The composite spur is fine and when the mesh is spot on they last a long time. I’ve one car with a 2 year old spur even. When you start adding metal parts the weight increases drastically, changing handling as well as durability. Over the last couple years I’ve found the best parts to upgrade to metal are the M2C motor mount, rear cnc metal diff (I keep the front stock except on 4s) and hot racing diff yokes. I keep pretty much all else stock except for tires. On my granite, that I like to send high, I’ve kept it all stock (except for a hot racing diff yoke on the rear and mx28s) so it’s light and can take the hits.

There are much better pinions out there than Arrma pinions but the Arrma pinion is just fine for the composite spur. But if you buy a new one might as well upgrade. Robinson racing is my favorite but there are plenty others. Just make sure you get .08 mod (or 32dp) and 5mm bore.

 

[bukshypro]

Did you shim the diff? There should be a shim on the non ring gear side when new and it will need to be removed or switched to the ring gear side as it wears. On a couple of occasions I had to switch the shim to the ring gear side when new to tighten up the mesh. Unlike the pinion/spur you do not want any play between the input/ring gear.

I absolutely love hot racing metal diff yokes. It’s the first thing I do to a new 3s car, at least on the rear diff if funds are short. They help the composite diffs last much longer by reducing flex in that area so the mesh stays tight. They are pricy but worth it.

The diff/input gears need to be checked every 3-5 weeks, depending on use. Clean the gunky old grease out (especially between the gear teeth where it compacts), check/lubricate or change bearings, put new grease in and check if the shim needs to be moved or removed. The diff oil itself doesn’t need to be changed near as often. In fact I rarely change it out.

The composite spur is fine and when the mesh is spot on they last a long time. I’ve one car with a 2 year old spur even. When you start adding metal parts the weight increases drastically, changing handling as well as durability. Over the last couple years I’ve found the best parts to upgrade to metal are the M2C motor mount, rear cnc metal diff (I keep the front stock except on 4s) and hot racing diff yokes. I keep pretty much all else stock except for tires. On my granite, that I like to send high, I’ve kept it all stock (except for a hot racing diff yoke on the rear and mx28s) so it’s light and can take the hits.

There are much better pinions out there than Arrma pinions but the Arrma pinion is just fine for the composite spur. But if you buy a new one might as well upgrade. Robinson racing is my favorite but there are plenty others. Just make sure you get .08 mod (or 32dp) and 5mm bore.

I didnt get all what you said, but the car is new, bout 15packs and im happy to get it wrong. I am actually happy as fiddlestick, I was able to take it apart, change the stuff, put 20000 oil in it, grease the diff gears and put it back together!! I think because of the 20k silicone oil in there, it moves a bit hard, but we will see. Arrma was using 10k apparently, but the youtube video suggested 20k. We will see. Gotta run to a Christmas party, so didnt put the motor back yet. Will come and report later.


Also, we don't even have half the rc aftermarket brands here in the UK, so choice is small

 

[bukshypro]

Unlucko I guess. Now gotta probably go for a full clutch set which is 10% cost of the car

I am genuinely considering just straight buying another car because I cant play for like 2 weeks now smth being always broken. The hobby shop doesn't have the parts :/

 

[Velodromed]

Unlucko I guess. Now gotta probably go for a full clutch set which is 10% cost of the car

View attachment 260018
I am genuinely considering just straight buying another car because I cant play for like 2 weeks now smth being always broken. The hobby shop doesn't have the parts :/

That happens from over tightening I’ve found. You can get a new hub…part number below.

It gets better. Just understand that the majority of your issues are ‘beginners growing pains’. As you learn how to properly set up, wrench and drive you will have far less breakage. Unless you decide you’re one of those that likes to send it 20+ feet, then you’ll constantly be fixing it.

Some people do that. Buy another car for parts. Can be a smart move, especially if you can find one on sale. I always liked having multiple cars for the variety and I can pull a parts off one to keep another running should I wish. I also like to take at least two when I head out in case something happens to one.

During the first 6 months I started out in this hobby I got a ton of parts off of Jennys. Multiples of the ones I was learning broke most (drive shafts, hubs etc). That has served me well and I always make sure I have more than enough parts and hardware lying around for when needed. I also learned to not wait until something fully breaks to replace it. If I see something on its way out, I’ll go ahead and replace it and save the old part for my beater car. Sometimes one part fully breaking can cause others to go out as well.

 

[bukshypro]

That happens from over tightening I’ve found. You can get a new hub…part number below.

It gets better. Just understand that the majority of your issues are ‘beginners growing pains’. As you learn how to properly set up, wrench and drive you will have far less breakage. Unless you decide you’re one of those that likes to send it 20+ feet, then you’ll constantly be fixing it.

Some people do that. Buy another car for parts. Can be a smart move, especially if you can find one on sale. I always liked having multiple cars for the variety and I can pull a parts off one to keep another running should I wish. I also like to take at least two when I head out in case something happens to one.

During the first 6 months I started out in this hobby I got a ton of parts off of Jennys. Multiples of the ones I was learning broke most (drive shafts, hubs etc). That has served me well and I always make sure I have more than enough parts and hardware lying around for when needed. I also learned to not wait until something fully breaks to replace it. If I see something on its way out, I’ll go ahead and replace it and save the old part for my beater car. Sometimes one part fully breaking can cause others to go out as well.

Heya! I ve read and watched so much articles and content that I understand more and more of what you say

I cant get most of the parts and brands you mention, because I live in UK, where this hobby is way smaller. I ordered some tyres from Germany, seemingly even saved like £20 in VAT, so in case enuff parts get together that need to be ordered, I might order again from Germany, where maybe those parts are available.

I've seen the metal diff gear combo on modelsport.co.uk (biggest rc online store in here), however its freakin ~£80. I am just putting through another ~£70ish order to get my full slipper set to replace what I broke(figured, financially its better with a whole new, so some of current might be re-used in future.)

So ye, my challenge is that sooner or later my wife will find out how much this costs and I wont be able to say no to her £100 parfums anymore I am thinking to just flood the 2nd hand market on fb marketplace and so I can say they re all 2nd hand cheap good deals, and sneak in some new cars here and there. This hobby is still better than playing CSGO and paying - in secret - thousands for skins and raging in front of computer.

Also having ADHD - as you can see how I got on fire writing -, this hobby is great to share with my son, because otherwise other games he loves to play are too boring for my dopamine crawing brain.


I also got a question to you if you don't mind. I don't get how should I set up my diff fluid. I did put 20k oil into my rear diff, apparently both rear and front were 10k from factory and now I don't know how should I deal with front diff, since, everyone here speaking about putting 3x heavier diff in front. I'd love to keep doing wheelies on tarmac and grass or dirt too(got 4 set of tyres, so for all different surface I believe), so how do I need to do the fluiding in my front/rear diffs? Also, Vorteks doesn't have a center diff, is that correct?

Also, whats when people talk about million strength silicone diff fluids? I have some 400-450 for my shocks, yet to change/fix that. i got this 20.000 that I put into my rear diff and people talk about 200k, 500k and 1million silicone oils. It gives me a feeling that I m doing smth wrong

If you got this far, thank you for reading

 

[Velodromed]

Heya! I ve read and watched so much articles and content that I understand more and more of what you say

I cant get most of the parts and brands you mention, because I live in UK, where this hobby is way smaller. I ordered some tyres from Germany, seemingly even saved like £20 in VAT, so in case enuff parts get together that need to be ordered, I might order again from Germany, where maybe those parts are available.

I've seen the metal diff gear combo on modelsport.co.uk (biggest rc online store in here), however its freakin ~£80. I am just putting through another ~£70ish order to get my full slipper set to replace what I broke(figured, financially its better with a whole new, so some of current might be re-used in future.)

So ye, my challenge is that sooner or later my wife will find out how much this costs and I wont be able to say no to her £100 parfums anymore I am thinking to just flood the 2nd hand market on fb marketplace and so I can say they re all 2nd hand cheap good deals, and sneak in some new cars here and there. This hobby is still better than playing CSGO and paying - in secret - thousands for skins and raging in front of computer.

Also having ADHD - as you can see how I got on fire writing -, this hobby is great to share with my son, because otherwise other games he loves to play are too boring for my dopamine crawing brain.


I also got a question to you if you don't mind. I don't get how should I set up my diff fluid. I did put 20k oil into my rear diff, apparently both rear and front were 10k from factory and now I don't know how should I deal with front diff, since, everyone here speaking about putting 3x heavier diff in front. I'd love to keep doing wheelies on tarmac and grass or dirt too(got 4 set of tyres, so for all different surface I believe), so how do I need to do the fluiding in my front/rear diffs? Also, Vorteks doesn't have a center diff, is that correct?

Also, whats when people talk about million strength silicone diff fluids? I have some 400-450 for my shocks, yet to change/fix that. i got this 20.000 that I put into my rear diff and people talk about 200k, 500k and 1million silicone oils. It gives me a feeling that I m doing smth wrong

If you got this far, thank you for reading

Yup, 10k front and rear is stock, and they tend to come half empty. I like running around 15 to 20k in the back and 25 to 30k upfront on 3s cars. There’s no center diff for the arrma 3s line and those other super high oil viscosity numbers are for the 6s cars mostly, so you’re good.

 

[bukshypro]

Perfecct! Thanks, I can now put my order through with piece of mind. 30k front silicone here we come

 

[bukshypro]

Cant catch a break.

!!! ALWAYS !!! put thread lock on your pinion screw.