Vorteks ARRMA Vorteks build log. Flysky GT5, CVD's, aluminum shocks, hiatus explanation, and a lot more!!

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Custnam

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
Hello forum, its been awhile. Long story short my entire life Ive had hobbies that come and go. Some never to return, some are lifelong. Well RC has been life long, but that doesn't mean I don't lose interest. Usually I move onto something else, but this time I lost interest in just about everything. I don't want to get into a long sob story, but I have clinical depression and when its bad I basically lose interest in everything. And this is one of those times. Just as an example I got this brand new Vorteks back in October last year and just unboxed it today. The whole time saying to myself "Ill get to it tomorrow, etc. etc. etc." Just haven't had that RC itch, or any itch for that matter. I even got my 2018 Suzuki GSX-S 750Z fully paid off, registered, insured, and have all the parts to get it up and running, but just haven't felt like it. And motorcycles is #1 in the top 3 of my favorite hobbies, RC probably #2. Anyway I decided to just unbox it and start the build in hopes it would trigger that itch. Anyway thats a “quick” explanation for my lack of posts, etc. Anyway onto the build.

I was originally planning on waiting for the next 4s lineup, but thats been delayed so many times I decided to get the Vorteks. Ive done quite a bit of research, reading posts here, YT, etc. and have a build plan. Its easier to write and read it in a list mode so thats how Ill do it again here. Posting with part numbers for others to be able to find the parts listed easier.


  • Flysky FS-GT5. My all time favorite radio, after selling the last one I bought it again.
  • DS3225 Servo. Found a DS3235 35kg servo I had, so I went with that.
  • Arrma ARAC3974 CVD Slider Set X 2
  • Arrma ARA330734 Vortek Rear Shocks
  • Arrma ARA330733 Vortek Front Shocks
  • Hot Racing ATF18M02 motor mount. Originally was going to go with the Arrma one which I bought, but decided on the HR.
  • Arrma ARA480017 Body post protectors. I like to add these to my bodies for extra protection.
  • Arrma ARAC8883 25T Servo saver. Needed since Im replacing the 23T servo for a 25T.
  • Arrma ARAC4024 Center Driveshaft support. Not 100% sure Ill be using this.
  • Arrma ARAC3496 Body mount set. Protects the shock tower ends.
  • Arrma ARAC6487 Wheelie bar. I prefer this wheelie bar, then I add the 6s tires and wheels by drilling a larger hole (4mm). Smooth street long wheelies all day.
  • Arrma ARAC9493 Outcast wheelie bar. Just for the tires and wheels, see above.
  • TBR Wheelie Bar - Arrma Vorteks 4x4 3S – 00049
  • I also plan on replacing all the stock soft screws with 12.9 screws I already have.
  • Also have front and rear LED's I will probably install as well for some cool night runs.

This is all the parts I have now. I have a few more parts on the way below:

  • Arrma ARA310998 15T D5 pinion. Just in case I need to lower the heat.
  • Arrma ARA310945 Metal Spur. Already have new slipper pads as well.
  • Fast Eddy 5x13x4 sealed ceramic bearings. Gonna replace the motor bearings out of the box. Why wait for that bearing to go and do more damage.
  • Acer 5x16x5 ceramic bearing. Couldnt find an Fast Eddys so got these.
  • BLX100 ESC. I haven't ordered this yet. Im going to test my runtimes after the build and see if I want to replace the ESC. Im hoping the rumored firmware update that allows you to lower the LVC will come soon. Im use to getting 15-20 minute runs, so if this gets 5-10 minute runs like others have reported Ill be getting that BLX100.

Thats the list for now. Im sure Ill think of more as I go. Before anyone says “you don't need that, or you don't need this”, I know there are parts that don't need to be replaced. But for me I LOVE upgrading and working on RC's. So I almost always overdo it when it comes to upgrades and parts. A few pics below. As I take it apart and do the build I will update this as I go. Anyway thats all for now. Thanks for reading!!

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DAY 1:


On the first day I basically disassembled everything. Took the diffs apart, both were very low on fluid. Put new Team Factory 30K in the front, and 10K in the rear. Had no issues with the disassembly or the diffs other than the low oil. I then installed the Hot Racing motor mount plate. And disassembled the slipper clutch noting the screw was about 1 full turn out from dead stop. Since I am already waiting on the Arrma metal spur I decided to buy a sealed ceramic 10x15x4 flanged bearing for the slipper. I remembered I had an almost full set of the Hot Racing pivot balls so I installed all of those throughout all the linkages. I then took the motor apart to be ready for the new ceramic bearings I ordered. The bearing on on the pinion end popped out easy using a hex driver head. The bearing in the cap end was a bit harder, but using the motor shaft and wiggling it finally popped out. So the motor is all ready for the new bearings.

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DAY 2:

I put the front and rear diffs back together, installed the new CVD's, then lubed the outer diff gears using Lucas red. After the diffs I moved on to the aluminum shock bodies. They came prefilled but I decided to dump and refill all 4 with new Team Factory 42.5wt (538cst). The stock ones are filled with 500cst so this was the closest I had to that. I then installed the shock towers and all the linkage. Everything moves nice and smooth with no binding anywhere. I had originally planned on using a DS3225 25kg servo but found a perfect DS3235 35kg I wasnt using so I went with that. Installed it and the 25t servo saver, then the FS-BS6 receiver. I forgot the mention that as I build I am replacing all of the stock softer screws with new 12.9 screws I already had. Thats basically it for Day 2. This build has been pretty easy so far. haven't had any snags or issues. Hoping it stays this smooth.

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DAY 3:

I finally received the ceramic bearings for the motor and the metal spur. I started by installing the Fast Eddys and Acer sealed ceramic bearings in the motor. It took a bit of hammering with a driver bit over the motor shaft to get it sealed fully. But I was able to get both installed. Hopefully this will keep the motor up and running awhile longer than the stock bearings that have had some issues. After installing these I noticed the motor was quite a bit louder, but I read that ceramics are generally louder than steel, so I think they will be OK. Im waiting on the last flanged bearing I ordered before installing the metal spur.


Next I went on to my wheelie bar mod where I use the Kraton 4s adjustable bar with the wheels and tires from the 6s line. I do this by using a 4mm tap and tap new holes so the 6s wheelie bar tire axles will screw in. Ive done this several times in past builds and it has always made street long smooth wheelies a piece of cake. Next I was originally planning on using the Typhon 3s shock tower end protectors (ARA320458) but they didnt work on the rear towers because of the updated part. So I just installed them on the front. I might dremel the ones for the rears a bit to get this to fit. Next on the list is the T-Bone front bumper. Using the pretty good diagram on TBR's site and pics I figured out how this installed. Fairly easy.

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DAY 4:


This was a very light day. I installed the 15T pinion and the already assembled aluminum ARRMA shocks.
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DAY 5:

I finally received the last bearing I ordered which was an Acer 10x15x4 ceramic flanged bearing for the slipper clutch assembly. I also had already ordered the BLX100 ESC from Jennys and will be installing that instead of the stock Spektrum. So Ive basically removed all of the Spektrum electrics other than the motor. I also assembled the slipper using the new metal spur. Pretty easy, just as an FYI to anyone else doing this you should use 4 pads rather than the stock 3 if using the metal spur. It isnt as wide as the plastic spur and gets pretty close to rubbing on the case if you didnt add the 4th one. The pads I used are part #ARA310994. Ive attached a pic showing the order all the slipper parts go together.

Thats where I am at the moment. I have everything I need to complete the build. I am still debating if I want to do another LED install. I probably will. So installing the motor, ESC, receiver, servo is next than the LED's.

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