Attn speed runners.how much toe are you guys using?

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Yeah the slop is created because of the poor tolerance's between the Stub axel, the hubs themselves, and the I.D. of the BB. Shimming will keep the outer BB square to the Axel stub. The wheel will rock less. Like 90% less. Hence less slop overall, and the resulting poor sloppy Camber and Toe it brings with it.
Many who bash say it doesn't matter. They deal with it. And is fine.
But once most of the slop is removed throughout the suspension and steering, the rig feels totally different. What I observed. Mostly benefitial with speed running. Or bashing On Pavement.

I would like to try and get rid of all my slop in my limitless, are you happy with how the teflon tape works? I have experience algining my drift car so I know it will help with dialing it in
 
I would like to try and get rid of all my slop in my limitless, are you happy with how the teflon tape works? I have experience algining my drift car so I know it will help with dialing it in
I haven't tryed the tape yet .but only used shims .and it's good now .I had a few issues I needed to square away .my biggest one was setting the servo arm correct.when I was finished extending my chassis I put the servo and the rest of the electronics I had forgot to turn the servo on while I was setting the servo arm .I wasn't really off by much but when I was aligning the front wheels it was throwing me off . couldn't get a straight pass.now it's all set ..I don't think I'll need the tape .but I'll keep that in mind .my rig is set up for speed passes only.never did off road .
 
Just my opinion, so take it for what it's worth.

I don't believe that I saw Raz address this on the Speed Secrets series and he ran 148 MPH. So at what speed does any of this really make a difference?

For tape vs shims vs nothing - This all depends on your bearings being good quality and fitting correctly. The stock bearings are OK and they spin if they are mounted correctly, which is the problem, the inner race isn't firmly "stuck" to the axle. So the idea with all of these fixes are to "stick" the inner race to axle and the outer race to hub.

If that happens then the bearing will work properly and make the bearing spin. Also, better bearings have less friction and should perform better and this might become your limiting factor (relative to the hub/axle).

Personally I used shims, But I also suspect only matters for either extremely high speed or more likely a matter of wear. At my paltry speeds of 120 MPH, it probably doesn't matter for top speed. However, if the bearing is not working, meaning it's spinning inside the hub or the on the axle, it's going to get hot and ruin parts.

I wouldn't overthink it, Teflon tape and shims are cheap. The job isn't that difficult. So I would just try something and see if the bearing is working or not. Then adjust the method if you need to. Or just replace parts once in a while.

Me personally, I'm more limited by my driving ability and the road than my bearings.
 
Also worth mentioning is that in the pursuit of getting all the slop out you can get them too tight where they don't turn freely anymore. By far the worst thing you can do is get things too tight in the steering so that the steering binds at certain times/places. A little slop isn't such a bad thing.

On that note the VTE2 has a 4mm movement on the rear arm. I have left that alone and have not addressed any slop in the arms or links and have had zero issues while speed-running. I set the camber and toe angles, and the car has been my favorite speed runner so far. Drives straight, fast, and reliable....
 
Just my opinion, so take it for what it's worth.

I don't believe that I saw Raz address this on the Speed Secrets series and he ran 148 MPH. So at what speed does any of this really make a difference?

For tape vs shims vs nothing - This all depends on your bearings being good quality and fitting correctly. The stock bearings are OK and they spin if they are mounted correctly, which is the problem, the inner race isn't firmly "stuck" to the axle. So the idea with all of these fixes are to "stick" the inner race to axle and the outer race to hub.

If that happens then the bearing will work properly and make the bearing spin. Also, better bearings have less friction and should perform better and this might become your limiting factor (relative to the hub/axle).

Personally I used shims, But I also suspect only matters for either extremely high speed or more likely a matter of wear. At my paltry speeds of 120 MPH, it probably doesn't matter for top speed. However, if the bearing is not working, meaning it's spinning inside the hub or the on the axle, it's going to get hot and ruin parts.

I wouldn't overthink it, Teflon tape and shims are cheap. The job isn't that difficult. So I would just try something and see if the bearing is working or not. Then adjust the method if you need to. Or just replace parts once in a while.

Me personally, I'm more limited by my driving ability and the road than my bearings.
I hear ya and I think that your opinion probably wasn't directed towards my issues with the reason why I wasn't doing straight passes.im still using stock bearings in my BR and they are running great.so that's not my issue..not sure who mentioned it but someone said to check my servo arm .as I mentioned when I finished merging the 2 chassis I forgot to turn on the servo and that's where I went wrong..I was to excited to get everything back on and run it .lol my son was bugging me to do some test drives and when we did it was constantly pulling to the left.i would try to correct the stearing by the trim knob on my stock transmitter but it would still do it .not as much but I knew something was wrong.i thought it was my toe or camber and it drove me crazy .I even switched transmitters because on the stock one it does not have reliable settings.its just has these small ass knobs that even setting it to 0 /neutral points doesn't mean it's really neutral.i could be off by a degree.so on my flysky gt3 I can set all my end points and dual rates digitally.helps a lot to confirm what it's really at instead of guessing.anyways even after that it still wanted to slightly pull to the left but not right away .mid run is when it wanted to around the 48 mph . I took everything apart twice and no luck .untill I checked my servo.servo was not set to the neutral point.when I did everything came together perfectly..now I must say I can do almost a perfect pass but I need to mess with end points a slight better.and mess with the different tires I have..my slicks are the best .my foams second and buggy tires are well they stink for speed passes.i like to use buggy tires if I do street bashing cause I don't want to mess the foam or slicks for that type of play..I also learned slicks suck in the cold weather..they heat up but cool down as fast in the 30 degree weather.so looks like I'm done for the season.ill just finish my build and wait till spring..thanks guys for all the advice.i appreciate it ..happy bashing to you all..check out my build thread as I'll be posting more updates on my xxl stretched Big Papa long rock.as my nieces say 😂
 
Did some work so I just set my toe again. Ready to go.
image.jpg
 
I hear ya and I think that your opinion probably wasn't directed towards my issues with the reason why I wasn't doing straight passes.im still using stock bearings in my BR and they are running great.so that's not my issue..not sure who mentioned it but someone said to check my servo arm .as I mentioned when I finished merging the 2 chassis I forgot to turn on the servo and that's where I went wrong..I was to excited to get everything back on and run it .lol my son was bugging me to do some test drives and when we did it was constantly pulling to the left.i would try to correct the stearing by the trim knob on my stock transmitter but it would still do it .not as much but I knew something was wrong.i thought it was my toe or camber and it drove me crazy .I even switched transmitters because on the stock one it does not have reliable settings.its just has these small ass knobs that even setting it to 0 /neutral points doesn't mean it's really neutral.i could be off by a degree.so on my flysky gt3 I can set all my end points and dual rates digitally.helps a lot to confirm what it's really at instead of guessing.anyways even after that it still wanted to slightly pull to the left but not right away .mid run is when it wanted to around the 48 mph . I took everything apart twice and no luck .untill I checked my servo.servo was not set to the neutral point.when I did everything came together perfectly..now I must say I can do almost a perfect pass but I need to mess with end points a slight better.and mess with the different tires I have..my slicks are the best .my foams second and buggy tires are well they stink for speed passes.i like to use buggy tires if I do street bashing cause I don't want to mess the foam or slicks for that type of play..I also learned slicks suck in the cold weather..they heat up but cool down as fast in the 30 degree weather.so looks like I'm done for the season.ill just finish my build and wait till spring..thanks guys for all the advice.i appreciate it ..happy bashing to you all..check out my build thread as I'll be posting more updates on my xxl stretched Big Papa long rock.as my nieces say 😂

It wasn't directed anyone in particular more of the discussion of the bearing slop. I was trying to simplify things a bit. The Arrma engineering is good but is good but not a precision machine. There are so many places that they could tighten this or refine that, but that's why it's cost $500 and not $5,000.

untill I checked my servo.servo was not set to the neutral point
I've done that too. I've also swapped the receiver to a new car and didn't reset the sub trim. That was bizarre.
 
I hear ya and I think that your opinion probably wasn't directed towards my issues with the reason why I wasn't doing straight passes.im still using stock bearings in my BR and they are running great.so that's not my issue..not sure who mentioned it but someone said to check my servo arm .as I mentioned when I finished merging the 2 chassis I forgot to turn on the servo and that's where I went wrong..I was to excited to get everything back on and run it .lol my son was bugging me to do some test drives and when we did it was constantly pulling to the left.i would try to correct the stearing by the trim knob on my stock transmitter but it would still do it .not as much but I knew something was wrong.i thought it was my toe or camber and it drove me crazy .I even switched transmitters because on the stock one it does not have reliable settings.its just has these small ass knobs that even setting it to 0 /neutral points doesn't mean it's really neutral.i could be off by a degree.so on my flysky gt3 I can set all my end points and dual rates digitally.helps a lot to confirm what it's really at instead of guessing.anyways even after that it still wanted to slightly pull to the left but not right away .mid run is when it wanted to around the 48 mph . I took everything apart twice and no luck .untill I checked my servo.servo was not set to the neutral point.when I did everything came together perfectly..now I must say I can do almost a perfect pass but I need to mess with end points a slight better.and mess with the different tires I have..my slicks are the best .my foams second and buggy tires are well they stink for speed passes.i like to use buggy tires if I do street bashing cause I don't want to mess the foam or slicks for that type of play..I also learned slicks suck in the cold weather..they heat up but cool down as fast in the 30 degree weather.so looks like I'm done for the season.ill just finish my build and wait till spring..thanks guys for all the advice.i appreciate it ..happy bashing to you all..check out my build thread as I'll be posting more updates on my xxl stretched Big Papa long rock.as my nieces say 😂

It wasn't directed anyone in particular more of the discussion of the bearing slop. I was trying to simplify things a bit. The Arrma engineering is good but is good but not a precision machine. There are so many places that they could tighten this or refine that, but that's why it's cost $500 and not $5,000.


I've done that too. I've also swapped the receiver to a new car and didn't reset the sub trim. That was bizarre.
Yeah this is the whole point of being in this hobby.nothing is ever perfect but we can try and have fun figuring out things to better our rigs.and satisfy our addiction 😁🤟
 
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