Notorious BashB*tch rebuild

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FatCatRC

FatCat Team Racing
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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Notorious
Well it's time to start a new thread for the Noto or BashB*tch as she's called. She is now benched and pulled apart after a nasty one wheel landing from 20 feet, bent the chassis and broke a shock end. I have already installed a M2C rear brace, towers and standoffs, RPM arms, HR front brace, scorched ackerarm, exb shock ends, and new dif internals. She will be getting knuckles, bulkheads,tunbuckles, steering links, front and back gear boxes, body posts, and body mounts from GPM (sorry Overpower), also a motor fan setup, the bigger receiver box from the new exb roller, and a new M2C chassis as it bent the stock chassis. I have a newly painted purple body for her that is getting a full headlight kit done to it. I am also going to try and installing a fpv system in her so I can fulfill my childhood dream of playing with an rc car with a camera on it real time like home alone lol. I also will be making custom carbon fibre mud guards and a carbon fibre T2T brace.
 
What about the custom key fob?
???
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Noto all done apart from fpv. A ton of gpm parts, suspension mounts, gearboxes, diff cups, drive cups, gears, body mounts, motor mount and center diff mount, front steering link and rear suspension link. Rpm arms, and wing mount. M2c standoffs, steering arm, chassis, towers and rear brace. Custom carbon fiber T2T brace. HR front chassis brace. Integy fan mount. I will be upgrading the fans I used to more powerful ones and will be installing a buck converter like my kraton. The fpv is getting redone to a more professional setup with a better tx and cam.

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Oh and both Kraton and Noto now have the upgraded exb receiver boxes and both have the exb shock ends and spring cups.
 
Oh and both Kraton and Noto now have the upgraded exb receiver boxes and both have the exb shock ends and spring cups.

Why the EXB receiver boxes? The other stuff I understand. I have a Notorious and a new EXB (still not built). I'm doing a bearing swap and a differential service on the Notorious (my first one) and have taken the battery tray and receiver box out so I could take the one off of the EXB and then order a replacement if there is good reason to. I did lose the little vertical tube thing from the Notorious radio box.
 
Why the EXB receiver boxes? The other stuff I understand. I have a Notorious and a new EXB (still not built). I'm doing a bearing swap and a differential service on the Notorious (my first one) and have taken the battery tray and receiver box out so I could take the one off of the EXB and then order a replacement if there is good reason to. I did lose the little vertical tube thing from the Notorious radio box.
Simply just more space for extra wires for fpv and lights etc. And I wanted to try my gyro on my receiver but quickly changed it back to without gyro.
 
Simply just more space for extra wires for fpv and lights etc. And I wanted to try my gyro on my receiver but quickly changed it back to without gyro.

Yeah I suspect Gyro only makes sense for on-road or speed runs. I don't see it as being useful for offroad.

Did you mount it flat - IE not on it's side like in the stock Notorious receiver mount? I think you have to mount it flat for it to work properly.
 
Yeah I suspect Gyro only makes sense for on-road or speed runs. I don't see it as being useful for offroad.

Did you mount it flat - IE not on it's side like in the stock Notorious receiver mount? I think you have to mount it flat for it to work properly.
Yeah I mounted it flat, that's why I needed the bigger box but even on speed runs it made the thing scary as heck to drive. The steering felt weird and when it starts to slide it locks up and keeps it in the slide until you hit brakes or gas.
 
Yeah I mounted it flat, that's why I needed the bigger box but even on speed runs it made the thing scary as heck to drive. The steering felt weird and when it starts to slide it locks up and keeps it in the slide until you hit brakes or gas.
I messed with it a bit and I could see that I would need to adjust the suspension so it didn't snap oversteer before the servo can possibly catch it. Depending on how much toe out you have, how much slop in the steering and how slow your servo is you might get that result. You may have to change your steering to make it work right. Then again without street tires it may not work.
 
I messed with it a bit and I could see that I would need to adjust the suspension so it didn't snap oversteer before the servo can possibly catch it. Depending on how much toe out you have, how much slop in the steering and how slow your servo is you might get that result. You may have to change your steering to make it work right. Then again without street tires it may not work.
i was using belted street tires on the kraten,still scary. Even the noto was terrifying. Ill prob mess with it some more later but for now I turned it off. More preoccupied with the fpv cams atm.
 
i was using belted street tires on the kraten,still scary. Even the noto was terrifying. Ill prob mess with it some more later but for now I turned it off. More preoccupied with the fpv cams atm.

With a shorter wheelbase the Notorious would be tougher. I suspect this is really designed to work on road cars with a whole lot less steering slop and no toe-out. The toe setup for dirt is completely different and toeing out. If you are running toe out in the front and toe in in the back (as it comes stock and works for running a 4wd in dirt) you have a very unstable setup for running on the street. You don't do that, it will be twitchy as hell. Normally you will run a little toe IN on the front on a road car. For a speed run car I would have it almost totally straight with just a tiny bit of toe in. Toe in on the front of a road car gives you much more stability in a straight line, better stability under braking and slightly less responsive initial turn.

I suspect running gyro with a standard dirt toe setup will build in far too much instability to manage. Adjust the front to slightly toed in and the rear to slightly toed in and you will have a far more manageable setup for the road. That less twitchy setup will work better with gyro inputs I suspect, although I have not tested it. THese trucks are toed out significantly at the front and in significantly at the back for dirt and it will be a twitchy mess on pavement with street tires. On the flip side, set your ride height, toe, and camber for pavement and it will handle so much better you may not need the gyro.
 
With a shorter wheelbase the Notorious would be tougher. I suspect this is really designed to work on road cars with a whole lot less steering slop and no toe-out. The toe setup for dirt is completely different and toeing out. If you are running toe out in the front and toe in in the back (as it comes stock and works for running a 4wd in dirt) you have a very unstable setup for running on the street. You don't do that, it will be twitchy as hell. Normally you will run a little toe IN on the front on a road car. For a speed run car I would have it almost totally straight with just a tiny bit of toe in. Toe in on the front of a road car gives you much more stability in a straight line, better stability under braking and slightly less responsive initial turn.

I suspect running gyro with a standard dirt toe setup will build in far too much instability to manage. Adjust the front to slightly toed in and the rear to slightly toed in and you will have a far more manageable setup for the road. That less twitchy setup will work better with gyro inputs I suspect, although I have not tested it. THese trucks are toed out significantly at the front and in significantly at the back for dirt and it will be a twitchy mess on pavement with street tires. On the flip side, set your ride height, toe, and camber for pavement and it will handle so much better you may not need the gyro.
Damn now I gotta study toe in and toe out now lol. I did not know anything about that to be honest. I was going to watch a few videos on camber and toe setup, it's something I need to learn and adjust property on my rigs.
 
Damn now I gotta study toe in and toe out now lol. I did not know anything about that to be honest. I was going to watch a few videos on camber and toe setup, it's something I need to learn and adjust property on my rigs.

Setups for dirt are very different than those for road. If you are doing enough on-road that you have road tires you should set up the vehicle much straighter. I would search up the toe and camber setup used on something like the Infraction as that is much different. In the dirt tires will spin and slide quite a bit, but on a higher traction surface the same toe and camber settings will give a lot of tire scrub and very different results.

When you read up on that stuff then look at camber gain and roll center height. Roll couple is the next step but that is pretty advanced and not required unless you are racing normally. For what we are doing setting the toe is the first thing you want to do. You don't have to be very exact in the dirt, but on pavement or other high traction surfaces you need to be much more exact with it and set it up differently.

@razorrc did a good video on setup with the EXB... but he didn't talk about toe and camber.
 
Oh wow it’s been a while on this thread....how cute this thing used to be. Fully updated and ready to rock. Too much to mention in a paragraph so a video is in order soon. Here’s some p*rn for ya for now.

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