Kraton Battery Choices For the Kraton

[j1980mac]

Higher C should equate to less IR or internal resistance and thus better performance. I'm just glad that I'm happy with the overall performance of what I'm using. I'm not an electrical or lipo battery expert by any stretch. Just not sure you'll need top dollar packs to truly enjoy your rig. On that note, I went to single pack, single EC5 connector off ESC to eliminate extra connector, for simplicity, easy charging, and less potential resistance via the connectors themselves. More connectors does equate to greater potential resistance as does longer wires. You'll find what works for you, and when you get bored...Etc. you'll likely change things around, upgrade stuff, tweak things to your liking. That's part of what makes this such a cool and interesting, and sometimes expensive hobby.

Hi Rich,

I couldn't agree more! I'm a sucker for speed and metrics.

But the only real RC I've ever driven (borrowed from a friend) is a 1/10 ERevo Brushless with NiMh. Definitely enjoyed the experience, broke a few parts, had to wrench on it, and it was fun. I'm not really impressed with the brand, so Arrma is in my sights because of the quality builds and the overall cool factor that they bring to the table.

So in regards to batteries, I've been learning about charging, etc. So with the EC5, you don't need balance boards? Just plug in your Lipo (once) to the charger and set your volts, and go? What connector does the Kraton have stock?

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Hi Rich,

I couldn't agree more! I'm a sucker for speed and metrics.

But the only real RC I've ever driven (borrowed from a friend) is a 1/10 ERevo Brushless with NiMh. Definitely enjoyed the experience, broke a few parts, had to wrench on it, and it was fun. I'm not really impressed with the brand, so Arrma is in my sights because of the quality builds and the overall cool factor that they bring to the table.

So in regards to batteries, I've been learning about charging, etc. So with the EC5, you don't need balance boards? Just plug in your Lipo (once) to the charger and set your volts, and go? What connector does the Kraton have stock?

All lipo packs should come with a balance plug to plug into balance board on charger so charger can balance charge the cells equally. The 1/8 scale Arrmas come with XT 90 connector, high quality, rated for good amperage, easy to use. I cut off the secondary connector off ESC that comes stock because I like less wire, less connectors and like using single hardpacks and thus need only one battery connector. I had already swapped other rigs and packs to EC5 because I've melted solder on less rated connectors with hard running and higher voltages, resistance creates heat. EC5 tested a bit higher than XT90 in a recent comparison and is trusted by our avionics brothers who fly expensive planes/helis. I still love driving my Traxxas Backslash, but had to spend lots to modify it for performance and durability. Here's some pics to help illustrate.

 

[j1980mac]

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the pictures. So are you saying that the XT90 is good, or it should be replaced by the EC5? Because if I get this battery from Max Amps, they can solder any connector I want on it. I'd like to have the best one.

Also, I understand that you're cutting the excess battery cable (from ESC) if you plan to never using dual lipos. So I've heard it's better to use a single setup vs a dual battery setup. What's your opinion on this?

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the pictures. So are you saying that the XT90 is good, or it should be replaced by the EC5? Because if I get this battery from Max Amps, they can solder any connector I want on it. I'd like to have the best one.

Also, I understand that you're cutting the excess battery cable (from ESC) if you plan to never using dual lipos. So I've heard it's better to use a single setup vs a dual battery setup. What's your opinion on this?

Single connector with single pack is the easiest way to operate any vehicle, with less chance for resistance, less batteries to charge...Etc. Also have benefit of LVC low voltage cutoff reading from ESC takes place off of single pack and single group of cells. Lots of RC hobbies have multiple 2s and 3s packs, therefore rigs come setup for dual pack configuration. XT90 is a great connector, very solid connection, easy to plug and unplug. EC5 is a bit tighter I think, but easy to work with and rated for slightly higher amperage. Double check with a search, pretty sure that statement is correct. Can't go wrong with either one. I just like keeping my life as simple as possible and had already switched other brand rigs to EC5 connectors.

 

[Kauaiguy]

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the pictures. So are you saying that the XT90 is good, or it should be replaced by the EC5? Because if I get this battery from Max Amps, they can solder any connector I want on it. I'd like to have the best one.

Also, I understand that you're cutting the excess battery cable (from ESC) if you plan to never using dual lipos. So I've heard it's better to use a single setup vs a dual battery setup. What's your opinion on this?

Heres what i use when running dual batteries with a single Xt 90, this is a in series connection.

 

[j1980mac]

Single connector with single pack is the easiest way to operate any vehicle, with less chance for resistance, less batteries to charge...Etc. Also have benefit of LVC low voltage cutoff reading from ESC takes place off of single pack and single group of cells. Lots of RC hobbies have multiple 2s and 3s packs, therefore rigs come setup for dual pack configuration. XT90 is a great connector, very solid connection, easy to plug and unplug. EC5 is a bit tighter I think, but easy to work with and rated for slightly higher amperage. Double check with a search, pretty sure that statement is correct. Can't go wrong with either one. I just like keeping my life as simple as possible and had already switched other brand rigs to EC5 connectors.

Ah, makes sense. If one battery is low, it would auto shut off and cut down on run time even if you have more life in the other pack. I'll go with the EC5.

 

[Vanning]

A xt-90 can run continuous at over 90 amps. The burst amp rating has to be way up there also but I can't find that info . A Castle Creation 6.5mm connector is rated at 200 amps continuous. Max amp batteries have a 120C burst so it's probably a 60 to 70c continuous. The wires on it are rated at 150 amps... so having a Xt-90 connector is the bottle neck. Does it matter ?? Well...what can a XT-90 handle for a 10 second burst of amps for example. Mine have seen way over 200 amps.

I would purchase the most C rating you can afford. High C batteries usually have low internal resistance. If you start low.... the battery will last for the most cycles. Each time you charge.... deposits are left behind, the internal resistance goes up. Also...a warmer battery has lower resistance than a colder one.... so this also fluctuates.

Packs that are good have 0-5 milliOhm/cell

Used dozens of times 5-10

Used even more and are weak 10-20

Almost shot 20-25 milliOhm/cell.

This is a good idea and just an example.

Go with a good name brand and the highest C you can. Stay above 40 is good also. Lower resistance is a good thing People like to believe what they read and false advertisement is common sometimes. The packs Rich uses have a big following. Many People are happy with them.

Here is a great calculator below.

You can chang the C and mAh to see what you need. Then go a little higher for good measure.

http://www.kritikalmass.net/battery-calculator/index.php


I'm only getting a Maxamps battery to see if it's better... it's expensive. I always wanted to try one out to see if they are BS. I like to test stuff and see for myself. It may survive a 2200kv motor on 6s better than the battery I have now... the voltage drops low when I use my 2200kv motor with a cheaper 6S I have now. I'm also thinking about EC5 connectors or Castle. I have spark arrestors in my XT-90. I'm thinking on eliminating them...just because I also think EC5 is better.

Overall... you will be fine with a decent name brand battery... if you like numbers and like seeing what's going on... later on, get a data logger or a ESC that can actually show you and others what goes on. (If you like that part of the hobby) Most people are all guesswork and no test work. Everything is just S.W.A.G. Scientific, Wild, A$$, Guess. Lol. Although the data loggers are averages also.... you can pick up on comparing different brand motors and batteries. You can also spot trouble but so can a heat gun.

Normally, if you are running cool on your motor, ESC, and battery.... you have a system that isn't being abused. Your components will last longer. Mostly the pinion gear size can get you in the right spot. Also... higher voltage may need lower KV motors. Lower voltage needs higher KV. I try to run my motor around 130-140 degrees F. I'll go higher, but at 180 F, I start to look for something to change. Hope this helps.

 

[Vanning]

I'm going to compare these 2 batteries in the same Kraton once I get the time and weather. Both with Castle Creation connectors.

 

[beech1900]

This is what I use. I'll post a video of them in action. Two 3s soft packs. I just stack them with thin rubber in between and underneath. Protects batteries as well as no slipping. Run them in series. These two are New because venom sent them to me under warranty when my first two got fried with Arrmas poopy esc. Switched to momba monster x by castle. No issues since.

 

[Vanning]

View attachment 5166 This is what I use. I'll post a video of them in action. Two 3s soft packs. I just stack them with thin rubber in between and underneath. Protects batteries as well as no slipping. Run them in series. These two are New because venom sent them to me under warranty when my first two got fried with Arrmas poopy esc. Switched to momba monster x by castle. No issues since.

The Mamba Monster X..... good man ! The thing takes a lickin and keeps on tickin.

 

[Kauaiguy]

I got to test my 6s yesterday with the Leo 4092/1730 motor with a 17t pinion,way to much power to use!I actually go slower on my track,but sure is responsive!Fun didn't last long,my front diff drive cup came loose and spit the dogbone out!Stupid me ,didn't figure it out till the center diff spit out super heated oil.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

A xt-90 can run continuous at over 90 amps. The burst amp rating has to be way up there also but I can't find that info . A Castle Creation 6.5mm connector is rated at 200 amps continuous. Max amp batteries have a 120C burst so it's probably a 60 to 70c continuous. The wires on it are rated at 150 amps... so having a Xt-90 connector is the bottle neck. Does it matter ?? Well...what can a XT-90 handle for a 10 second burst of amps for example. Mine have seen way over 200 amps.

I would purchase the most C rating you can afford. High C batteries usually have low internal resistance. If you start low.... the battery will last for the most cycles. Each time you charge.... deposits are left behind, the internal resistance goes up. Also...a warmer battery has lower resistance than a colder one.... so this also fluctuates.

Packs that are good have 0-5 milliOhm/cell

Used dozens of times 5-10

Used even more and are weak 10-20

Almost shot 20-25 milliOhm/cell.

This is a good idea and just an example.

Go with a good name brand and the highest C you can. Stay above 40 is good also. Lower resistance is a good thing People like to believe what they read and false advertisement is common sometimes. The packs Rich uses have a big following. Many People are happy with them.

Here is a great calculator below.

You can chang the C and mAh to see what you need. Then go a little higher for good measure.

http://www.kritikalmass.net/battery-calculator/index.php


I'm only getting a Maxamps battery to see if it's better... it's expensive. I always wanted to try one out to see if they are BS. I like to test stuff and see for myself. It may survive a 2200kv motor on 6s better than the battery I have now... the voltage drops low when I use my 2200kv motor with a cheaper 6S I have now. I'm also thinking about EC5 connectors or Castle. I have spark arrestors in my XT-90. I'm thinking on eliminating them...just because I also think EC5 is better.

Overall... you will be fine with a decent name brand battery... if you like numbers and like seeing what's going on... later on, get a data logger or a ESC that can actually show you and others what goes on. (If you like that part of the hobby) Most people are all guesswork and no test work. Everything is just S.W.A.G. Scientific, Wild, A$$, Guess. Lol. Although the data loggers are averages also.... you can pick up on comparing different brand motors and batteries. You can also spot trouble but so can a heat gun.

Normally, if you are running cool on your motor, ESC, and battery.... you have a system that isn't being abused. Your components will last longer. Mostly the pinion gear size can get you in the right spot. Also... higher voltage may need lower KV motors. Lower voltage needs higher KV. I try to run my motor around 130-140 degrees F. I'll go higher, but at 180 F, I start to look for something to change. Hope this helps.

Vanning I couldn't agree more with your post, great info! PS I originally tried my SPC pack due to vertical size limitations for Typhon buggy body fitment. Didn't want my body cranked sideways by the pack. Just happened to really like the weight savings and overall performance. Hoping SMC will work just as good, still waiting for shipment, guy at company told me it was late cuz some packs didn't pass testing at warehouse. To me that is quality control and a good sign of product integrity. Would buy higher C rating if they offered them with same/similar dimensions.

 

[Vanning]

Vanning I couldn't agree more with your post, great info! PS I originally tried my SPC pack due to vertical size limitations for Typhon buggy body fitment. Didn't want my body cranked sideways by the pack. Just happened to really like the weight savings and overall performance. Hoping SMC will work just as good, still waiting for shipment, guy at company told me it was late cuz some packs didn't pass testing at warehouse. To me that is quality control and a good sign of product integrity. Would buy higher C rating if they offered them with same/similar dimensions.

The smaller size batteries that have better numbers are hot items. At Maxamps, you can match the wire size to the ESC wire size. But Jeezus .... what's with the price ! I went with Castle Creation connectors on it .... just because of advertisement reasons and I got a extra pack of 3 for the charger etc . What a ridiculous price also. Let me turn you guys on to a awesome product.... it's called Deoxit Gold. Clean the connectors with that once in a while on a q-tip. That stuff brought back a camera to life that I dropped in a river. I put it in the switch and the non working camera fired right up. (Had to dry out also) Great for cleaning connectors and keeping away oxidation from sitting in a basement etc.

My Turnigy battery works awesome but I can sag the voltage down past my Lipo cutoff voltage and cause errors in the ESC. That's when I'm running with a Castle Creation 2200kv on 6S. It's nuts. I want to revisit that setup and test a so called better battery on it in due time.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

I got to test my 6s yesterday with the Leo 4092/1730 motor with a 17t pinion,way to much power to use!I actually go slower on my track,but sure is responsive!Fun didn't last long,my front diff drive cup came loose and spit the dogbone out!Stupid me ,didn't figure it out till the center diff spit out super heated oil.

Very tempted to get the 1730, it's definitely on the list. Need to get Kraton diffs bullet proofed first. Looks like a beast in videos. Sorry that happened bro. Hopefully diff isn't totally shot.

 

[Vanning]

I got to test my 6s yesterday with the Leo 4092/1730 motor with a 17t pinion,way to much power to use!I actually go slower on my track,but sure is responsive!Fun didn't last long,my front diff drive cup came loose and spit the dogbone out!Stupid me ,didn't figure it out till the center diff spit out super heated oil.

You got good weather over at you place or something !!! Lol. snowing here. i was looking for the smallest pinion when I had that motor in. Per RCJuice... they told me it's no good on 6s but you can run it if you are careful. I put in the smallest pinion and also small diameter Badlands which are super light weight and smaller diameter. I also have a fan on my center diff. Hot Racing is selling aluminum center diff housings for Arrma now. Also... motor mounts.

 

[j1980mac]

I'm going to compare these 2 batteries in the same Kraton once I get the time and weather. Both with Castle Creation connectors.

It sure is a world a difference between the size, weight, and price of those packs!

BTW, I decided to get the Max Amps 4S 6500 150C hard case. I just stuck with the standard XT90 ant-spark connector for now.

View attachment 5072 That's a bonus.... the Maxamps I ordered is going to be very good for me on weight. 231 grams lighter and 450 mah more. My 6s now did slightly favor the left side, my 5s favored the motor side. It was all very slight and nothing to complain about. For the motor I have in now.... this should be real good match. I hope !


I like those numbers. The OP should be good at these weights for balance on a stock motor. The 900 plus grams is up where it drastically drops the left side.

Vanning,

How are you running 5S without issues on a Kraton? Are you on a stock ESC? MaxAmps told me that 5S would be problematic and to not ever attempt it. RCJuice said it would work just fine.

Hard to know what advice to run with. 5S sounds like it would be a great happy medium...

 

[Jfranklin12678]

Hi,

Would 2 of these 3S lipos fit on a Kraton without any modification? Thinking about getting one, but want to make sure I maximize run time and power.

http://www.rcjuice.com/lipo-batteri...0mah-11-1v-3s-100c-hardcase-lipo-battery.html

Thanks

Hi,

Would 2 of these 3S lipos fit on a Kraton without any modification? Thinking about getting one, but want to make sure I maximize run time and power.

http://www.rcjuice.com/lipo-batteri...0mah-11-1v-3s-100c-hardcase-lipo-battery.html

Thanks

Lucky you for having the MONSTER Kraton. You can fit almost whatever you want on this truck. Invest in a Maxamps stainless battery tray plate. I'm running a Maxamps 6s 6500. I upgraded my shocks to support the weight. NO PROBLEMS AT ALL..

 

[Kauaiguy]

You got good weather over at you place or something !!! Lol. snowing here. i was looking for the smallest pinion when I had that motor in. Per RCJuice... they told me it's no good on 6s but you can run it if you are careful. I put in the smallest pinion and also small diameter Badlands which are super light weight and smaller diameter. I also have a fan on my center diff. Hot Racing is selling aluminum center diff housings for Arrma now. Also... motor mounts.

Weather is pretty good,temps at 75f.Tried to buy the aluminum center diff,but sold out.Heres what it looked like,gears where hard to remove as they where melted in plastic.Ordered another stock case,the gears where still good!

 

[Rich Duperbash]

View attachment 5180
Weather is pretty good,temps at 75f.Tried to buy the aluminum center diff,but sold out.Heres what it looked like,gears where hard to remove as they where melted in plastic.Ordered another stock case,the gears where still good!

Better take a close look at those bearings too, must have gotten super heated, guessing your back end was fish tailing a bit with rear wheel drive and all that torque!

 

[Kauaiguy]

Better take a close look at those bearings too, must have gotten super heated, guessing your back end was fish tailing a bit with rear wheel drive and all that torque!

When the dogbone fell out of the front ,all the power tried to transfer to the front causing the diff to ""diff out", squirted out the diff fluid and made a puff of blue smoke!Bearings still good,just the housing.I have a spare center diff as well as one spare for f/r.