Ohhh I gotcha. Thought you meant front center dogbone/driveshaft fell off. Just can't seem to have enough spares, but damn these parts aren't cheap...
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Vanning
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The first ESC in the Kraton was a failure. It was burning up... may have been the motor or connectors doing it but who knows. It only ran 4S or 6S because the Lipo shut off only worked with the 2 voltages. The next Kraton was improved. I was told it could run 4, 5 and 6. I'm not sure. However.... if it doesn't, you can set the ESC to NiMh and it will not use a Lipo shut off. Then you could plug a Lipo alarm into the charge leads and rely on that to shut down when needed. I myself run a Mamba Monster X ESC, and for a radio a Spectrum DX4S. I took my time and just changed everything like the next day of owning the Kraton. It is the best platform I've ever had. They are awesome in any format. It's best to run 4S at first ... let the car break in and gear on the 14T for now. once you get to know it... start looking into stuff. A Mamba Monster X and a Castle Creation 2200Kv on that 4S Maxamps will rip. Lol... the stock motor will also. Let's not get crazy right away. Learn how to work on that car... rip the 4S around etc.... Gear up for speed, keep your heat in check. You can use the finger method. If you can't hold that motor for ten seconds, it's too hot.
Be Careful taking it apart and working on it. It's loaded with red loctite !!!!! ASK FOR ADVICE first !!!!! You need heat to remove some set screws and good fresh Allen keys.
A Maxamps 4S stock is going to be nice. It will run well and long on 6500 mah. Put Velcro from HomeDepot in the tray and under the battery. Run the leads in the back. Put Velcro under the plastic battery clamps that are provided also. Use the tabs to take up space. My huge 6S pack never moves. Also.... before you do that... looks at the screws in the bottom of the tray... do something there so the tray can't slide towards the spur gear. I used some hot glue to fill in the oval. You will see what I mean. Don't let that battery slide into the spur gear.
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slowmethinks
Member
THIS!!1! x100
I've lost two batteries from stacked batteries leaning or sliding into the spur when I first got my Talion. It was a hard lesson to learn...
One of those won't have enough peak amps,maybe parellel them for 6600 4s?
Raysito
Member
Yesterday, second run with my Kraton, this happened... so I guess this means no more 6s fun for me. Need to get a hardcase lipo though it's not easy to get them delivered here at reasonable price, only the one from brainergy (4s 5000 mah) is acceptable. Any other recommendations?
I have no soldering expertise so XT90 is the only one that does it for me... which makes it a lot harder to find.
I have no soldering expertise so XT90 is the only one that does it for me... which makes it a lot harder to find.
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SMC makes a 4300 mAh 40c 6s hardcase, same physical size as SPC I've grown to love in Outcast and Kraton. Cost 80.00 shipped with choice of connector. My SMC should arrive anytime to test out, low weight 6s option to consider. Looks like your battery went into your spur gear.
Raysito
Member
That's what I thought. At first glance the spur seams ok, so well, actually I'm glad nothing else happened. I'll check out SMC, though I don't know if I can get those here in Europe. Thanks man, got to say actually your vids were among those that made me go ARRMA
Thanks bro. The spur wouldn't show any signs of damage from cutting into a pack. Make sure your battery tray is secure, may have loosened and slid/flexed tilting battery into spur. If that's what happened, you definitely don't want a repeat. I'd check your straps too to be safe.That's what I thought. At first glance the spur seams ok, so well, actually I'm glad nothing else happened. I'll check out SMC, though I don't know if I can get those here in Europe. Thanks man, got to say actually your vids were among those that made me go ARRMA
Raysito
Member
That's exactly what happened. Battery tray was way to loose. I will follow the recomendations before and glew it to the base. Oh man, had I known... What a way to waste a pack, not a cheap one BTW...
The straps seem ok, I'll check again in the morning (1 am here now).
The straps seem ok, I'll check again in the morning (1 am here now).
hello all, new guy here been out of rc for 10 yrs. ordering a kraton. what charger and batteries are recommended, I want to run 6s eventually as well. going with spectrum dx4 radio and it appears I need a better steering servo?? guidance appreciated.
I was running nitro truggy and buggy 10 years ago.
I was running nitro truggy and buggy 10 years ago.
Raysito
Member
I'd say go 4s and stock servo to start with. Even I can notice servo could be better, but it's not as underpowered as many other RTR's are. You could gain much more from changing the tires IMHO. 6S is mostly for insane kind of bashing you see here around. As for batteries, in this thread (and others) there are a few recommendations such as SPC, SMC, Maxxamps... what's most important is that they fit in the battery tray (156 long, 52 wide, 60 height if I remember correctly), and over 35C - 5000 mah.
I'd strongly suggest you read this thread thoroughly, some good info here would have spared me from throwing away my first pack. To keep it short: tighten the screws in the battery tray, glue them (their slot is oval, instead of circular, so they have way too much play which needs to be taken away), and you should be fine. At least, better than me. Some others also use velcro or other solutions to keep the battery tighter inside the tray...
Also, hard case lipo wouldn't hurt you... just your wallet
If looking for a servo, there's a lot of good info in this other thread:
https://arrmaforum.com/threads/whats-a-good-strong-savox-servo-for-the-kraton.2519/page-5#post-26777
Other things you could do to improve the beast, mostly learned in this forum:
Thicker center diff oil
Shimming diffs
Alu servo mount
I'd strongly suggest you read this thread thoroughly, some good info here would have spared me from throwing away my first pack. To keep it short: tighten the screws in the battery tray, glue them (their slot is oval, instead of circular, so they have way too much play which needs to be taken away), and you should be fine. At least, better than me. Some others also use velcro or other solutions to keep the battery tighter inside the tray...
Also, hard case lipo wouldn't hurt you... just your wallet
If looking for a servo, there's a lot of good info in this other thread:
https://arrmaforum.com/threads/whats-a-good-strong-savox-servo-for-the-kraton.2519/page-5#post-26777
Other things you could do to improve the beast, mostly learned in this forum:
Thicker center diff oil
Shimming diffs
Alu servo mount
thx for that info. are these overkill below? or should I run 2 packs side by side. I have the tekin x2 plus in my cart as well for charging. did u swap stock radio??
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_96&product_id=398
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_96&product_id=398
Raysito
Member
I believe a few people here use those, wish I could, SMC is impossible to get here in Europe as far as I can tell. Just one pack of those, and you'll be jamming for a while (6700 mah is a lot). Plus it's hardcase.
I am using the stock radio, it's nothing special but it gets the job done. Light and easy to handle, good ergonomics (maybe a bit too thin), wheel's texture is ok... Enough's enough in this case for me
As for the charger... X2 plus, isn't that hitec? If it is, I'm actually using one that's pretty much the same (SkyRC D100), easy to use and plenty enough for me.
I charge on a piece of ceramic tile,just as a precaution.
Success LiPo
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Hey I am new to the Arrma Kraton. I've never driven a car with an exposed spur gear. I was surprised to see that the spur gear is exposed on the bottom of the chassis. Does this create problems with dirt kicking up? It just seems crazy to me to have such a crucial gear mesh out in the open. I'm new to this so please school my on this design.
I also I have a question about the stock ESC (the newer one). I've only run my car 2 times. I have never had a car with 2 battery ports. As these ports wire the packs in seris the voltage goes up. 1. My question is how does the ESC adjust for a low voltage cut off that won't ruin the batteries when running 3s with one pack, 4s with 2 packs, and 6s with 2 packs? 2nd question: If you run a 2s pack with 7600mah and a 3s pack with 5000 mah, will the esc deplete the voltage of the 5000mah too low and ruin it? (i don't understand how this low voltage cut-off works as I am new to lipo's and I believe the lowest voltage per cell is 3.8 or something. I charge with a balance plate and cells max to 4.2 as they should)
Ole Fart51
Active Member
Kauaiguy, I see you use the Leopard 4092 1730kv. I just ordered the same motor. you are running a 17 tooth pinion. I was thinking about running a 18 in mine. What's your thoughts? Also, How well do you think it will perform with 5s?
