Be careful when swapping servos

carckton driver

Well-Known Member
Messages
252
Reaction score
204
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
This is a little cautionary story of me being (kind of) an idiot. When swapping your servo or esc make sure all your wires are in that little grove in the reciever box/tray. When swapping servos i put all the wires back in the slot they came from but i guess when screwing down the lid on the reciever box the antena wire must have popped out and got cut in half when i screwed the lid down. I was out drivng and the car kept cutting out when it got 50-75 feet away. Tried new batteries in TX and even swapped batteries in the car even though they were fully charged. Couldnt figure out what was wrong until i got home and saw this
It also occured to me halfway through typing alk this. Can the antena wire be soldered together? Would that limit my range/conectivity at or or even work at all?

20221115_000919.jpg
 

fastasscrass

Well-Known Member
Messages
55
Reaction score
107
Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
The antenna wire might be a specific length. Does it work at all in it's current state?
 

ZooKeeper

Quack!
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
ArrmaForum Fan
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
346
Reaction score
579
Location
Chicagoland Burbs
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Granite Mega
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton 8S
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
You could try soldering the wire back together if you still have the other half, but it may still be unreliable at this point. Make sure you test your failsafe to ensure its working correctly, the last thing you want is a runaway car to hit someone.

If I was in your shoes, I'd be replacing the receiver.
 

swarls

Well-Known Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
91
Reaction score
139
Location
Germany
Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
I'm no expert on this matter, so I might be wrong here.

If I recall it correctly, the antenna cable is no normal cable, so soldering won't work. But you can replace them with something like this. As you can see it has a plug at the end, so you can just pop open the receiver and swap out the antenna. But as far as I remember, they have to be a certain length.

Again, I'm not 100% certain, just telling you what I think I know off of similar threads. Wait for someone to confirm what I'm saying before doing anything.
 

Diem Turner

Yes...I have a Premium Member
Premium Member
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,415
Reaction score
13,629
Location
Wienerslider, Germany
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
As @swarls said, no need to replace the receiver. You can just replace the antenna. Much cheaper solution. As they're coaxial wires, soldering won't work as you're all but certain to solder the core and shielding together.

The overall length of the antenna is not relevant. What is relevant is the length of the unshielded bit at the end. The rest of the antenna is just a mast of sorts to raise the tip up higher. Depending on how far away you drive the car from yourself that could be helpful for better range but, as said, that will depend on how far away you drive.
 

carckton driver

Well-Known Member
Messages
252
Reaction score
204
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Thanks for all the replies

The antenna wire might be a specific length. Does it work at all in it's current state?
I get about 50 feet of range 🤣

You could try soldering the wire back together if you still have the other half, but it may still be unreliable at this point. Make sure you test your failsafe to ensure its working correctly, the last thing you want is a runaway car to hit someone.

If I was in your shoes, I'd be replacing the receiver.
So as i just mentioned i get about 50 feet of range. Sometimes it does a mini runaway. It seems to want to run away until i hit the brake or something. Hard to tell as i was in a panic the few times it happened. Didnt happen every time it lost connection. Luckily i was going slow
I'm no expert on this matter, so I might be wrong here.

If I recall it correctly, the antenna cable is no normal cable, so soldering won't work. But you can replace them with something like this. As you can see it has a plug at the end, so you can just pop open the receiver and swap out the antenna. But as far as I remember, they have to be a certain length.

Again, I'm not 100% certain, just telling you what I think I know off of similar threads. Wait for someone to confirm what I'm saying before doing anything.
I remeber reading something similar. That antena will just plug right into the receiver if i open it up?
 

Dan B.

Area man
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
ArrmaForum Fan
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,836
Reaction score
3,927
Location
Southern Vermont
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Mojave EXB
  3. Outcast 6s
  4. Typhon 6s
As @swarls said, no need to replace the receiver. You can just replace the antenna. Much cheaper solution. As they're coaxial wires, soldering won't work as you're all but certain to solder the core and shielding together.

The overall length of the antenna is not relevant. What is relevant is the length of the unshielded bit at the end. The rest of the antenna is just a mast of sorts to raise the tip up higher. Depending on how far away you drive the car from yourself that could be helpful for better range but, as said, that will depend on how far away you drive.
Third time this has come up in two days. Maybe you should write a technical synopsis in Electronics that could be stickied. 😊
 

carckton driver

Well-Known Member
Messages
252
Reaction score
204
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Unless im missing something swapping antenas isnt doable. The antena is soldered to the board but worse than that is it looks like there is some sort of silicone glueing it in place

20221115_075334.jpg
 

Diem Turner

Yes...I have a Premium Member
Premium Member
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,415
Reaction score
13,629
Location
Wienerslider, Germany
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
Unless im missing something swapping antenas isnt doable. The antena is soldered to the board but worse than that is it looks like there is some sort of silicone glueing it in place

View attachment 256418
That's rather unusual (and unfortunate). In the long run you'll probably need to replace the receiver. To bridge the gap, remove the shielding from the end of what you have left. I just measured the tip of my SR6110AT and it's 31mm. That should get you closer to the range you're accustomed to. Just be careful that you only remove the shielding and don't cut into the core.
Third time this has come up in two days. Maybe you should write a technical synopsis in Electronics that could be stickied. 😊
Yeah, I noticed that too. I would, but I only have a surface level understanding of the basics and don't consider myself competent enough on the topic to say much more than I have in the last couple of posts. I know enough to (what should) get them working again, but not much more beyond that. But you have a point. I'd assume that this is something that happens frequently enough so as to warrant a sticky.
 

sandblaster

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Reaction score
184
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. Granite
  3. Outcast 4s
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Talion
  6. Typhon 3s
  7. Vorteks
Look at it this way. Receivers are a lot cheaper to replace than the esc, motor or car. Experience is our best teacher. Those are the lessons we never forget. And you can get a wireless receiver and not have to worry about an antenna. The antenna is more for aircraft longer ranges.
 

SrC

RC is a lifestyle choice
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
17,777
Reaction score
22,661
Location
Queens, NYC
Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Infraction
  3. Limitless
  4. Kraton 6s
  5. Mojave
  6. Notorious
  7. Outcast 6s
  8. Typhon TLR
That's rather unusual (and unfortunate). In the long run you'll probably need to replace the receiver. To bridge the gap, remove the shielding from the end of what you have left. I just measured the tip of my SR6110AT and it's 31mm. That should get you closer to the range you're accustomed to. Just be careful that you only remove the shielding and don't cut into the core.

Yeah, I noticed that too. I would, but I only have a surface level understanding of the basics and don't consider myself competent enough on the topic to say much more than I have in the last couple of posts. I know enough to (what should) get them working again, but not much more beyond that. But you have a point. I'd assume that this is something that happens frequently enough so as to warrant a sticky.
+1. Yes

Strip aprox 15-20mm of coax shielding from the end of what is left. You may be surprised that this will work. Crap happens we all did dumb stuff like this Myself included.
It is actually the last 15-20mm or so that is the actual "antenna". Where the signal gets to. Left shielded, this reduces the signal attenuation drastcially.
What do you have to lose at this point? I would.
Try it. :cool:
 

Dan B.

Area man
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
ArrmaForum Fan
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,836
Reaction score
3,927
Location
Southern Vermont
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Mojave EXB
  3. Outcast 6s
  4. Typhon 6s
Look at it this way. Receivers are a lot cheaper to replace than the esc, motor or car. Experience is our best teacher. Those are the lessons we never forget. And you can get a wireless receiver and not have to worry about an antenna. The antenna is more for aircraft longer ranges.
If it were me I’d totally keep an external antenna.
 

carckton driver

Well-Known Member
Messages
252
Reaction score
204
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
That's rather unusual (and unfortunate). In the long run you'll probably need to replace the receiver. To bridge the gap, remove the shielding from the end of what you have left. I just measured the tip of my SR6110AT and it's 31mm. That should get you closer to the range you're accustomed to. Just be careful that you only remove the shielding and don't cut into the core.

Yeah, I noticed that too. I would, but I only have a surface level understanding of the basics and don't consider myself competent enough on the topic to say much more than I have in the last couple of posts. I know enough to (what should) get them working again, but not much more beyond that. But you have a point. I'd assume that this is something that happens frequently enough so as to warrant a sticky.
if it has a plug it would be super easy, the trickiest part would be figuring out wha the black plastic thing is that fell out when you took the case off (a blank plug) and getting it back in.
Look at it this way. Receivers are a lot cheaper to replace than the esc, motor or car. Experience is our best teacher. Those are the lessons we never forget. And you can get a wireless receiver and not have to worry about an antenna. The antenna is more for aircraft longer ranges.
a what kind of receiver? what the hell is wireless? i don't have one already???? :ROFLMAO:
 

Diem Turner

Yes...I have a Premium Member
Premium Member
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,415
Reaction score
13,629
Location
Wienerslider, Germany
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
+1. Yes

Strip aprox 15-20mm of coax shielding from the end of what is left. You may be surprsed that this will work. Crap happens we all did dumb stuff like this Myself included.
It is actually the last 15-20mm or so that is the actual "antenna". Where the signal gets to. Left shielded, this reduces the signal attenuation drastcially.
It's actually a little more than that. My Futaba receivers each have 29mm unshielded and my Spektrum receiver has 31mm. They obviously operate on slightly different frequencies, hence the difference in unshielded length. The 1/4 wavelength of 2.4GHz is 31.23mm, so it makes sense from that standpoint.
 

carckton driver

Well-Known Member
Messages
252
Reaction score
204
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
+1. Yes

Strip aprox 15-20mm of coax shielding from the end of what is left. You may be surprised that this will work. Crap happens we all did dumb stuff like this Myself included.
It is actually the last 15-20mm or so that is the actual "antenna". Where the signal gets to. Left shielded, this reduces the signal attenuation drastcially.
What do you have to lose at this point? I would.
Try it. :cool:
in that case i would have to run without a cover on the receiver box since whats left isnt long enough to reach outside the closed box since it got cut by the box its self. then again i don't ever plan to drive it in water. whats the best way to strip the shielding? wire stirppers?
 

Diem Turner

Yes...I have a Premium Member
Premium Member
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,415
Reaction score
13,629
Location
Wienerslider, Germany
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
Look at it this way. Receivers are a lot cheaper to replace than the esc, motor or car. Experience is our best teacher. Those are the lessons we never forget. And you can get a wireless receiver and not have to worry about an antenna. The antenna is more for aircraft longer ranges.
Have I been doing this wrong all this time?
1668528475458.png

in that case i would have to run without a cover on the receiver box since whats left isnt long enough to reach outside the closed box since it got cut by the box its self. then again i don't ever plan to drive it in water. whats the best way to strip the shielding? wire stirppers?
I'd use a scalpel and a soft touch personally. Remove the gray mantle to the appropriate length, then unbraid the shielding and cut it off with some flush cuts where the mantle ends. That should get you good results. I'd just drill a small hole in the receiver box so that it can just stick up out of it. But that's just me.
 

SrC

RC is a lifestyle choice
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
17,777
Reaction score
22,661
Location
Queens, NYC
Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Infraction
  3. Limitless
  4. Kraton 6s
  5. Mojave
  6. Notorious
  7. Outcast 6s
  8. Typhon TLR
If it were me I’d totally keep an external antenna.
+1
I have a few antennaless "Track" recievers. They even have nice Fast Frame rates etc. Are light and small. (y) Just that range is usually more suited for track running, not the wide open fields that we bash at. From experience. I feel range is important, or you can lose a rig real easy with loss of control. Even if your failsafe is setup properly. Been there.
 

carckton driver

Well-Known Member
Messages
252
Reaction score
204
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
yeaaa, jennys has a TX/RX combo for $30. if i could buy a new (solder type) antena i would probably try that just to see if i have the skills but i think ill just buy a new one
 

sandblaster

Well-Known Member
Messages
192
Reaction score
184
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. Granite
  3. Outcast 4s
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Talion
  6. Typhon 3s
  7. Vorteks
I buy and run the Futuba wireless receivers. They work fantistic and so much easier to work with when the antenna wire is not an issue. Hence "WIRELESS". Wonder about some of you, what you may be on.:unsure:
 

Diem Turner

Yes...I have a Premium Member
Premium Member
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,415
Reaction score
13,629
Location
Wienerslider, Germany
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
I buy and run the Futuba wireless receivers. They work fantistic and so much easier to work with when the antenna wire is not an issue. Hence "WIRELESS". Wonder about some of you, what you may be on.:unsure:
So you mean antenna less and not wireless. Sorry to have to be the one to explain the joke, but all transmitter/receiver combos are wireless. That's kind of the point of them. Are we being pedantic? Perhaps. But maybe we're just trying to be clear about what we're talking about.
 
Top