Notorious Bean Basher build
- Thread starter The Bean
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True, I suppose if I had one installed already, I might have save the wheelie bar from breaking too.Most people don't break em, from what I've read, so in the end it might save you quite a bit of money. It could be a worthy investment
@Exc3l , yes, I moved a couple of months ago
this'll be cute
The Bean
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- Thread starter
- #26
I almost never break stuff, so I never need to post anything here .
I had a stripped wheel hex, so I put some set screws in to put it back into a hex shape
Also, my servo horn is loose and keeps popping off, even though it's as tight as can be. I put a piece of poopy bag in there, and now it doesn't even need a set screw.
Because I almost never break anything, I'll start jumping higher.
I am probably going to build a ramp sometime, because my local dirt track isn't big enough for sends over 10'. The ramps are too close, so I would hit those ramps (and BMXing kids) when sending it.
.I had a stripped wheel hex, so I put some set screws in to put it back into a hex shape
Also, my servo horn is loose and keeps popping off, even though it's as tight as can be. I put a piece of poopy bag in there, and now it doesn't even need a set screw.
Because I almost never break anything, I'll start jumping higher.
I am probably going to build a ramp sometime, because my local dirt track isn't big enough for sends over 10'. The ramps are too close, so I would hit those ramps (and BMXing kids) when sending it.
The Bean
Very Active Member
- Thread starter
- #27
I had a huge amount of school projects, so I took a couple months break from the hobby 
.
I've had this returning issue with one of my front wheels: the nut kept undoing itself, and I couldn't figure out this issue myself, even after trying everything (tightening harder, "repairing" the wheels) I could think of.
Just used the search function, seems like most people use lock tite as a temporary solution. Anyone found a permanent solution that doesn't cost much money? Or should I just use the temporary solution as a permanent solution?
.I've had this returning issue with one of my front wheels: the nut kept undoing itself, and I couldn't figure out this issue myself, even after trying everything (tightening harder, "repairing" the wheels) I could think of.
Just used the search function, seems like most people use lock tite as a temporary solution. Anyone found a permanent solution that doesn't cost much money? Or should I just use the temporary solution as a permanent solution?
Hector_Fisher
Very Active Member
This is a brilliant idea! Just stripped a wheel tonight. Might steal this ideaI almost never break stuff, so I never need to post anything here
I had a stripped wheel hex, so I put some set screws in to put it back into a hex shape
View attachment 239477
Also, my servo horn is loose and keeps popping off, even though it's as tight as can be. I put a piece of poopy bag in there, and now it doesn't even need a set screw.
Because I almost never break anything, I'll start jumping higher.
I am probably going to build a ramp sometime, because my local dirt track isn't big enough for sends over 10'. The ramps are too close, so I would hit those ramps (and BMXing kids) when sending it.
My slightly more permanent solution is also with locktite. Add some on the thread and let it dry (don't screw the nut on just yet)I had a huge amount of school projects, so I took a couple months break from the hobby
I've had this returning issue with one of my front wheels: the nut kept undoing itself, and I couldn't figure out this issue myself, even after trying everything (tightening harder, "repairing" the wheels) I could think of.
Just used the search function, seems like most people use lock tite as a temporary solution. Anyone found a permanent solution that doesn't cost much money? Or should I just use the temporary solution as a permanent solution?
The dried locktite will act like it does on a locknut.
The Bean
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- #30
Drove my Noto for the first time in months. This was the first time in half a year that I drained my battery with zero problems . No lost wheel nuts (solved with locktite), no loose servo horn (solved with a dog bag), no popped out axles (solved with learning how to drive) etc.
I also built two ramps: a compact 60° (3ft. x 3ft.), and a small, near vertical "bump" (4ft. x 4in.). This one is very fun to wheelie over: it creates an instant front flip.
. No lost wheel nuts (solved with locktite), no loose servo horn (solved with a dog bag), no popped out axles (solved with learning how to drive) etc.I also built two ramps: a compact 60° (3ft. x 3ft.), and a small, near vertical "bump" (4ft. x 4in.). This one is very fun to wheelie over: it creates an instant front flip.
The Bean
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- Thread starter
- #31
I rounded the heads of the screws on my motor mount a while ago, but I never did anything about it, because the gears meshed fine, so I didn't need to change anything.
I wanted to experiment with some larger gears, so I had to drill out the screws (screw extractor kit didn't work), for which I needed my dad's help (my generation is entirely self-sufficient and will totally not die from starvation when the previous generation dies off).
After my dad got them screws out, I saw that the pinion set screw was missing. And it had been for months, probably. The Safe-D system Spektrum made just kept it in like that, so I hadn't noticed until now
.
I swapped out the pinions, and meshed the properly this time. Let's see how it goes!
Also, my traxxas slash has been semi-broken for about two years. I overheated the motor so hard that it could boil water (and my finger, ow) multiple times, as I needed an excuse to get a motor upgrade, but I couldn't get myself to buy a €120 castle 3670. It also kept breaking bearings, and cogged like crazy because of my bad soldering. I finally repaired it, so it works properly for the first time in 2 years. The new motor, a 3670 HobbyStar, didn't fit in the Slash's stock layout.
I replaced the receiver box to the front, and moved yhe ESC forward as well. Now everything fits perfectly!
I forgot just how light this thing feels and drives compared to my Noto, which is more than 2x as heavy.
Old can vs. new one:
Also, my LiPo checker can say "Beep":
I wanted to experiment with some larger gears, so I had to drill out the screws (screw extractor kit didn't work), for which I needed my dad's help (my generation is entirely self-sufficient and will totally not die from starvation when the previous generation dies off).
After my dad got them screws out, I saw that the pinion set screw was missing. And it had been for months, probably. The Safe-D system Spektrum made just kept it in like that, so I hadn't noticed until now
.I swapped out the pinions, and meshed the properly this time. Let's see how it goes!
Also, my traxxas slash has been semi-broken for about two years. I overheated the motor so hard that it could boil water (and my finger, ow) multiple times, as I needed an excuse to get a motor upgrade, but I couldn't get myself to buy a €120 castle 3670. It also kept breaking bearings, and cogged like crazy because of my bad soldering. I finally repaired it, so it works properly for the first time in 2 years. The new motor, a 3670 HobbyStar, didn't fit in the Slash's stock layout.
I replaced the receiver box to the front, and moved yhe ESC forward as well. Now everything fits perfectly!
I forgot just how light this thing feels and drives compared to my Noto, which is more than 2x as heavy.
Old can vs. new one:
Also, my LiPo checker can say "Beep":
The Bean
Very Active Member
- Thread starter
- #32
I ran both RCs today. The Slash had WAY more torque than before, but felt more sluggish, which is good for my little brother. I have gears to gear up. It also kept rolling, an issue I forgot about because of its slow speed. Also, it broke after a nice kartwheel. Now its a squatted truck 
.
The Noto with the 13t felt way faster, it just absolutely flew past me in the mud. However, it didn't wheely on command anymore, only when going at very low speeds. It had a more controllable feel, though that wasn't what I was after. I decided that I'd swap in a 11t or 12t for BMX tracks and the 13t for fields.
And then I discovered that it was on 75% from the last time I handed it to my dad. I put it on 100% and wow, it's a monster! It wheelies even harder than with the 11t, and ... oh, it's empty.
Great bash, but too little mAh for me. Trying again next weekend.
.The Noto with the 13t felt way faster, it just absolutely flew past me in the mud. However, it didn't wheely on command anymore, only when going at very low speeds. It had a more controllable feel, though that wasn't what I was after. I decided that I'd swap in a 11t or 12t for BMX tracks and the 13t for fields.
And then I discovered that it was on 75% from the last time I handed it to my dad. I put it on 100% and wow, it's a monster! It wheelies even harder than with the 11t, and ... oh, it's empty.
Great bash, but too little mAh for me
. Trying again next weekend.
The Bean
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- Thread starter
- #33
Well, apparently I didn't dry my Notorious and Slash well enough last bash. My Notorious made metal-on-metal squeaky sounds, and my Slash wasn't able to move at all (the least play I've ever felt in its drivetrain 
).
I bought a bearing set for each, and started replacing. The only seized bearings on the Notorious were in the hubs, so that was an easy fix. The Slash however...
I had to replace every single bearing, except for the motor- and steering bearings.
I also did the LCG conversion on it, while I was at it.
And I broke three drill bits on a grub screw. Any advice?
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/broke-three-drills-on-a-grub-screw-solutions.59393/#post-880293
).I bought a bearing set for each, and started replacing. The only seized bearings on the Notorious were in the hubs, so that was an easy fix. The Slash however...
I had to replace every single bearing, except for the motor- and steering bearings.
I also did the LCG conversion on it, while I was at it.
And I broke three drill bits on a grub screw. Any advice?
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/broke-three-drills-on-a-grub-screw-solutions.59393/#post-880293
The Bean
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- Thread starter
- #34
Drove the Slash once since my last post, and didn't drive the Notorious at all (motor bearing was seized, and I didn't notice when replacing bearings). Everything kept breaking, and that combined with finals approaching made me decide to take a short break from RC.
I replaced the Noto's front motor bearing with a new one. The motor's inside looked rough.
I decided to ignore its poor condition and put it back together. I managed to somehow drop my toothbrush through the stator while trying to knock the bottom out.
I found a good way to get the motor bearing out without heat: get an M4 screw (its head fits perfectly through the motor plate without going through the bearing), place it on the bearing and knock it out w/ a hammer.
I also found an easy way to press-fit the new bearing back in, using a vice grip and a piece of paper.
Lastly, the motor mount kept jamming and I couldn't get the spur and pinion to even touch. Dry lube fixed that issue.
After that, I "tested" the noto on the street. It looked really funny with the power switch hanging under it (I hadn't put the mud guard back on).
Tomorrow I'll put it back together and maybe take it out.
Lesson learned: no mud bashes unless you properly maintain your RC (which I don't).
I replaced the Noto's front motor bearing with a new one. The motor's inside looked rough.
I decided to ignore its poor condition and put it back together. I managed to somehow drop my toothbrush through the stator while trying to knock the bottom out.
I found a good way to get the motor bearing out without heat: get an M4 screw (its head fits perfectly through the motor plate without going through the bearing), place it on the bearing and knock it out w/ a hammer.
I also found an easy way to press-fit the new bearing back in, using a vice grip and a piece of paper.
Lastly, the motor mount kept jamming and I couldn't get the spur and pinion to even touch. Dry lube fixed that issue.
After that, I "tested" the noto on the street. It looked really funny with the power switch hanging under it (I hadn't put the mud guard back on).
Tomorrow I'll put it back together and maybe take it out.
Lesson learned: no mud bashes unless you properly maintain your RC (which I don't).
Last edited:
The Bean
Very Active Member
- Thread starter
- #35
Last time I ran my Notorious, I lost a shock mount nut, ending my run after only a few minutes. This time, a different shock mounting screw just broke off its head, so now I'm thinking I'll just replace all of 'em and buy some spares for if it happens again.
Also, I met some older guys (one past his 40's and one past his 70's) who seemed quite interested in my RCs, and were quite impressed with how well they held up to the dirt track.
Also, I met some older guys (one past his 40's and one past his 70's) who seemed quite interested in my RCs, and were quite impressed with how well they held up to the dirt track.
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