Bearings for the 6s Ackerman bar

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With just the bearings?
Ok, I think this is an exp Ackerman bar, right? Without fitting it to a car I’m not sure if it needs one or two washers. I think one would probably work as it appears closest to how the bushing fits. But I’m remembering with a bearing, it still might need that extra one. First picture is the stock bushing. Second picture is the bearing with a single washer. Third picture is the bearing with two washers.

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@Velodromed

Once you install the bearing into ackerman... do you put the washer/s on the opposite side? as they fit into the hole perfectly

I am bit confused as to how to install the washer/s

thanks​

No worries bud. You have the flanged bearings right? Those bearings snap in to the Ackerman bar from underneath it, then the washers go on the topside to fill the gap. It’s OK if the washer is a tiny bit higher than the hole, but it can’t be lower. With the stock Ackerman I think it took two washers to make it mostly even with the top of the hole. The best visual is below, it’s the M2C one partially installed. The bearing snaps in from underneath and then the two washers go in on the top side. if you keep having issues, let me know and I can do a short video in the next day or so.

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thanks, I think i understand

However a video would be greatly appreciated

Thanks 😊
Sure thing then. Be patient though, it’s spring break for my kid and we’re getting ready to go on a rock hunting trip. I’ll try to get to it tomorrow though. I have to take the front end of my 6s Kraton apart anyway for something else.
 
I got these but was considering the flanged, I thought it might be too thick. I use a washer on the top and bottom. Theres very little wiggle room and man my steering is like butter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153903302944
Nice. Glad that worked and yes, butter smooth. We just got back from a mini vacation so haven’t done the video yet for the poster before you. I’m just beat right now.
 
Anyone know the size for the bearings on the steering posts under the steering rack? 6s
I also followed the advice to replace the bushings in the steering rack with bearings.
Long story short:
They don't take long before they crap out in the dusty environment i run in.
Since it's a PITA to replace those bearings, i went back to the bushings.
 
I just use the proper sized 4 Belcrank BB's, "rubber sealed". I remove the seals, then pack these with grease well. They last long for me. None ever failed. These BB's don't rotate more than 60 degrees back and forth. Not much load on them, like other BB's. Yeah requires much disassembly to replace them.
The stocker Brass bushings do wear out. FWIW. Adding more slop anyway.
Getting these BB's wet, especially easily at the bottom ones will trash them no doubt. Any BB's.
 
I used this thread for the bearing size, but the .8 washer linked ended up being too much. I instead opted for .1mm shims. Probably overkill, but I can get exact shimming. - shims

So on a limitless v2 the bearing go in from the top.
This is the correct way to install them! Not from the bottom, as you want that flanged bearing keeping the steering Ackerman down.
 
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Hmm. You're still using the stock steel steering pins correct? If so this is just a complicated bushing / top hat spacer replacement. Your bearing will get pinched by the washers resulting in no free movement of the inner race (or even the outer race for that matter).

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Hmm. You're still using the stock steel steering pins correct? If so this is just a complicated bushing / top hat spacer replacement. Your bearing will get pinched by the washers resulting in no free movement of the inner race (or even the outer race for that matter).

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For sure, I installed as per the ScorchedRC instructions, which match the Limitless v2 setup. In order to eliminate all the slop I’m using a combination of m3 and m4 shims along the steering pin. 0 slop, and super smooth. I used M6x10 shims on the steering arm bearings.

Here’s what I used
M6 shims for the steering arm bearings
M3 shims for the steering pin inside the Ackerman. There’s a decent gap in there to fill with shims, so I usually put in a 1mm aluminum spacer too.
M4 shims that go on top of the flange bearings to shim the steering pin. It will shift the pin up. Hopefully you can see in the pic below the bearing is inserted into the Ackerman, and then I’m stacking the M4 shims on top. I continue stacking m4 shims on top until only the 3mm size pin is sticking past the bearing, then inside of the Ackerman I put the M3 shims

The thing you have to remember, is any force applied to the outside of the tire will cause the Ackerman bar to want to go up. Not just from a direct hit, but also from the forces being applied to the tire while the vehicle is turning. If you have the bearing at the top, the steering will stay nice and smooth as this happens. If you have a washer up top, the action may cause the steering to bind.
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Pretty smooth on stock. Granted this is a no-load situation.

I agree, I wouldn’t say that stock is all that bad. You’ll wear out the bushings eventually, but it’ll be awhile before you have to worry about that. The real goal should be to shim all of the slop out of the steering.

I used to chase ultra smooth steering, and while I do still to some extent, 1/8 race buggies taught me something. Easy steering isn’t that important, you just want predictable steering. If you look at all the serious comp buggies they all have bushings in their steering components, and aren’t the easiest to turn.
 
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